Ohmann

Thank You!

thias

It is not just orings. There are teflon washers that can and should be replaced. But there are also parts that are not replaceable as well. For example the green piston seal. Also the valves have metal on metal sealing surfaces at the tips of the pistons. It those are marred or scratched, you can't service that.
In other words: A oring swap is no guarantee for a working valve block. Even if done correctly.

And then of course it still could be your struts leaking internally.

Ohmann

No leaks of any hydraulic fluid. I’ve decided to rebuild valve blocks. Have some time on my hands and pretty sure this will correct problem.
will order new orings and Teflon washers. Car is 2003 and may not need new Teflon washers but not worth the chance. Mercedes changed to another washer in 2004/2005 Using my hydraulic hose disconnect tool on my key ring so may as well get my dollar per use value down, as this was a pricey little tool which really helps removal of rear valve block. Thank you all for your help Give me a couple of weeks and I’ll post results. Painting porches on house as well. Love my car and the porches are looking great as well!

Ohmann

Logged on to diybenzrepair and noticed that they rebuild valve blocks as well as sell the kit for diy
Think it may be wise to have them rebuild valve blocks. I am pretty meticulous but someone that does this many times may be best
Opinions please!, Thank You!,

sivikvtec

Not to drag their name through the mud, but they are the ones who rebuilt both of my valve blocks (that are still malfunctioning).

I have no idea at this point who is at fault, and still hope to fix this by flushing fluid from the bleed valves.

just a heads up....

Ohmann

Think I’ll just order the orings and new spacers and diy
i do have the time It will be fun
Thank You

sean65

The most difficult aspects of the job, for me anyway, was the removal and reinstallation of the assembly. The actual changing out of the o-rings and backup rings was the easiest part of the job.

sivikvtec

I find getting the hoses back into that stupid rubber clamp/holder thing by the rear wheel by FAR the hardest part of the job. I despise that thing lol.

2007mustang

The teflon O rings simply hold the nitrile O rings in place so they don't "roll over under pressure", they don't seal anything. Be careful when you "seat" the new O rings and don't have them inside/out. I tried the higher up before turning car off also. It didn't help. One Control valve works the different heights, the Lock valve simply "locks" your car at whatever height you had when you turned car off. It simply doesn't let the fluid in the system leak back to the tank and depressurizing. Make sure you clean the solenoid well, exp the spring loaded one. Clean the plunger and spring. The plunger needs to "seat" closed after you turn the car off. The spring does that job. Either stretch the springs out slightly or get new ones. Be careful when installing the Lock solenoid to make sure the spring stays in place. Use hydraulic fluid liberally to make putting it back together slide in easier. Doing that front and rear stopped my sagging. Mine was mostly the front and rear passenger sides that sagged. No more after a rebuild, flush and rodeo. Good luck.

Ohmann

Well want to reply with results
Rebuilt front and rear valve blocks
This took care of left side sagging
Still have a White ABC warning light
This is a problem Car doesn’t drive correctly
Will take it to the shop to find out what’s going on
one Rear hydraulic hose was a bear to reconnect
Metal oring in female connection had to be reinserted in its groove
before hose could be reconnected
Thanks all for your help