SL/R230: Driver Side Drop

2 years ago, I rebuilt suspension 100k miles, new pump, rebuilt valve blocks and replaced black bladders except for the small return in the rear.
Could not have done this work without this forum. Let me say that initially I put in rebuilt pump, This was a mistake. Rebuilt just provided practice for removal and install of new pump. Twice, I might add. Highly recommend new pump when the job is difficult enough without needing practice.
Now my drivers side settles within an hour after parking. It perks right back after start.
Would the front or rear valve block be the cause of car dropping on entire left side?
Thank you all for suggestions
It's plausible to me albeit highly unlikely that the ABC controller may have a pair of faulty outputs which are opening the strut valves very slightly. To eliminate this as a possible cause, when you shut the motor off I would disconnect the rear battery and observe what effect this has on the lowering.

i raised height to two dots, shut car off and disconnected rear battery
Will have results in the morning
These cars are so temperamental, it’s like being married
I love it
thanks
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if it does maintain height then it must be electrical Wow! Will check after lunch
thank you!!
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I recommend driving it around the block at normal height, parking it, and then disconnecting the battery if you think it’s electrical.
I’m sure the car will still sag badly, I don’t even think the ABC control unit gets power from the trunk battery lol.
I had my valve blocks rebuilt by a well known vendor and still have the problem. The vendor believes that dirt/contamination are in the valves causing the malfunction. My ABC pump died, so maybe it was sending metal particles into the system as it failed. A full fluid flush and rodeo didn’t fix the problem.
Next step will be to take the valve blocks out again (ugh) and disassemble the lock valves to clear any debris. In the meantime I am usually OK if I park at full height.
One theory of mine is that when you park and raise the car, fresh fluid is sent through the lock valves and reduces the debris trapped inside, which allows each valve to seal better when it closes.
Last edited by sivikvtec; Mar 22, 2020 at 12:20 PM.

i am going for a drive out on the interstate and see what happens tonite after putting it away
Thank You
only another owner can understand this cars many nuances

Since reset car has maintened posture
White ABC light appeared and the button to raise and lower has quit working as it did before reset
Really need a diagnostic done so I know what is going on
A month ago I had my roof hydraulics repaired because of the front roof cylinder leaking. 6 cylinders were replaced at CabrioletHydraulics in Bremerton Fl. Great job!! While I was down there for a winter break.
Never had a leaky trunk before front cylinder went bad. The two pumps at the bottom of the trunk have been acting funny. Lumbar support cycling on and off occasionally. Trunk is dry again now. Gonna get down there and clean up pumps soon.
So yesterday I changed the spark plugs
Tommorrow changing voltage regulator behind the alternator.
Will get back to figuring out ABC soon
Thought I was going to have to rebuild those two valves again. Now I’m pretty sure it’s something else
Simple I’m sure
What a Car!!
Thank you for your help
I love this forum
Learned so much
Do the mechanical stuff (valve blocks) there’s no doubt about that side then and you don’t need diagnostics. If it doesn’t fix it, then nothing lost but you’ve ruled out that side of things definitively. If you carry on chasing electrical stuff at this point there’s an element of uncertainty (intermittent fault?) and guesswork involved.

i have flushed hydraulic fluid regularly 20/30k miles . Car has 120k miles 2003. Bought it with 30k miles 7/8 years ago. Should have them sent out for professional rebuild.
one seal in each block is not holding a seal. I’ll get a good look pulling them out. Appreciate your help.
The original poster tried the same and was successful.
Last edited by sivikvtec; Mar 29, 2020 at 09:51 PM.
I had my valve blocks rebuilt by a reputable vendor and the problem persists. Assuming the quality of the rebuild can be trusted, the sagging is happening because the lock valve cannot close completely due to debris trapped in the system.
I had my valve blocks rebuilt by a reputable vendor and the problem persists. Assuming the quality of the rebuild can be trusted, the sagging is happening because the lock valve cannot close completely due to debris trapped in the system.
The vendor that rebuilt the valve blocks says I need to flush fluid at each bleed screw to get the debris out. I’m trying that next. If it fails, I’ll take one of the valve blocks apart and inspect it.

would like to try that as well before removing valve blocks
a friend of mine represents a German co that makes precision
orings and gaskets for many industrial uses to include nuclear power plants
He and his boss wanted to rebuild my valve blocks
I am guessing one o ring on each block isn’t quite right
would love it if flushing some debris would work
Thank You





