alexisvx

Hi all,
My roof stopped working and it turned out that it was a burned pump. I sent it to tophydraulics which fixed it, then I re-installed the pump. So far so good.

However the roof had some difficulty operating normally. It started opening fine but then during the last phase when the trunk needed to go from open to close it stopped moving with no sound coming from the pump. I waited a bit then tried to close it. Again the initial phase worked well but when it came to the trunk closing it would not. The pump was working but the truck would stay up. I eventually managed to close it by nudging it with my hands and it closed normally when pressing the button. I checked on the fluid levels on the pump and they were low. This is because the fluid got out of the hoses while I was waiting to get the pump back.

So I refilled the pump and cycled the trunk a few times and had to keep re-filling the pump a couple of times as I guess the fluid was getting back into the system. After a few times the pump did not need to be filed anymore so I went and moved the roll bar a few times and it worked fine. So I then went to open the roof and it got stuck again, this time it almost closed completely but not quite.

I can't hear any noise from the pump and can't close manually the roof, or at least I don't want to force it shut.

I suspect that after the cycle, the pump got low on fluid again which is why it is stuck.

Any advice on how to close it so I can access the trunk and check on the pump fluid levels?

seven_out

You open the trunk as you normally would. At any point in an open/close cycle you can open the trunk lid just as if the "tubular frame" were locked-down in its home position.

alexisvx

thanks for getting back to me. I forgot to add the pictures, see here. Won't that damage the system?

seven_out

Not at all. I have a car with both the tubular trunk lid frame and the trunk lid both open on a car I'm working on. Also, watch this factory-made video to the two minute mark.
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alexisvx

I tried but the trunk wouldn't budge. It's stuck in the 'almost closed' position. Is it safe to drive that way so I can take it to my mechanic or is there a risk to damage the roof?
Do you think the motor has burned again since I can't hear it?

seven_out

Those of us with a SmartTOP know that the roof can be open/closed with the vehicle in motion at a speed of at least 40 MPH, so you can probably make it to your mechanic safely. Personally, I wouldn't take a roof problem to a tech unless I was sure he had a good understanding of how the roof works. While I have an expectation that all techs have knowledge and experience with engine control systems, I don't think that is the case with the Vario roof. Or the ABC.

A thermocouple on the motor sends a temperature signal to the roof controller, so a motor should not burn up, though evidently it does occur sometimes.

I would troubleshoot by trying the Easy Pack feature. The prerequisites for the motor running when you press the button to lift the folded roof are fewer than those required to move the roof. But you are going to have to have the roof at one of its two Home positions; i.e., completely open or completely closed.

You really ought to be able to close the roof manually, and since it is a good skill to have, this would be an opportunity to learn. Did you use the metal key in the trunk-lid lock in conjunction with the release handle?
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Tony Ryan

Thats an excellent video , ive learnt quite a lot about the Vario roof on my car from that . Could it also be used to put Down a roof thats stuck up by using the reverse procedure , i dont have star but the Flaps on mine are discconnected anyway ?

alexisvx

Ok so I managed to have it opened! thank you for your guidance. I depressurized the pump and then was able to fully open the roof.
What seems to be the issue is that when connecting the pump I must have put some of the hoses to the wrong numbers as the pump works fine. I'll take it apart again tomorrow and see.

alexisvx

Update: I had put 2 of the pump hoses the wrong way. But I still seem to have a problem.

After putting the hoses in the correct holes, I cycled a few times the roll bar and trunk lid and refilled the fluid until cycling did not need me to refill the reservoir. Then I opened and closed the roof four times with no problems. I packed all my gear and tried one last time and the roof wouldn't open! Not sure this is relevant but I did all the above with the engine off.

Roll bar and trunk work fine but when I lift the switch to open the roof I can see on the dashboard that the 'roof in operation' sign comes on but it does not open and I can't hear any noise from the pump. When I push the switch to close it, I hear the closing mechanism noise in the trunk and then the 'roof in operation' sign disappears. I tried with the engine on but no difference.

Do you know what could be the issue? Is it just a matter that I need to wait and do this again with the engine on and things will fall into place?

alexisvx

Bump

seven_out

Causes of a top not operating for no apparent reason include the pump temperature, voltage on the rear battery, and a limit switch reporting an incorrect state. Any of those could be in play here -- or not, since I wouldn't think you'd get a "roof in operation" message.

It's difficult to troubleshoot problems with the roof and with ABC if you lack Star Diagnosis or an equivalent.

alexisvx

Yes, I need to invest into a Star diagnostic and will look into it next.
You mention voltage issues. The dealer told me that I needed to change my service battery (Picture attached) as it is not the 'stock one'. The roof was working fine for the first few weeks I had the car, before the pump motor failed and I had to have it fixed. Could this battery cause the motor to burn and the top to not close now even though it worked fine for a few weeks?

matk

Can you take a clearer more in focus photo of the battery specs, just to the side of the positive terminal?

seven_out

I suggest you take everything this individual has told or will tell you in the past, present, and future with a "grain pound of salt."

Low system voltage will cause the system to quit working until voltage is restored. If the engine is not running, then a weak battery would cause that. That wouldn't be a function of the battery installed. Note that you have a VRLA-type battery, and that is the one specified by the factory.

alexisvx

When you say 'That wouldn't be a function of the battery installed'. Do you mean that my battery is ok and therefore there is another issue? (I re-attach a hi-rez battery photo)

alexisvx

bump

George911

hello did you ever figure out what the problem was I’m having the same issue can’t figure out thanks