SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Aussiesuede's R230 with 238,000 miles !

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Old 05-03-2020, 10:13 AM
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Aussiesuede's R230 with 238,000 miles !

The following buried in a thread discussing a roof closing issue but, I thought be good to bring to all fact that Aussiesuede has a R230 with 238,000 miles (probably mileage title winner ?) and his comments as to his ABC experience..

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Old Today, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by steve sl550 View Post
Aussiesuede,

WOW 285,000 miles on a SL500 !!

You must hold the record.

Be great to hear how your ABC has held up with all those miles.

Can you give us some history as to service life ?

I'm sure all are eager to hear.

THANKS
Thus far, the only thing changed on the original ABC system are 2 blown hoses. The accumulators are both toast and I've a pair sitting on the shelf and should get around to replacing them some time over the next 3 weeks. I've got a new pulsation dampener that I plan on installing at the same time. The car is still riding on it's original shocks/dampeners. I do a fluid/filter flush every 40,000 miles. All-n-all,my ABC system has been pretty bullet proof. My best advice is change fluids with regularity and the system should treat you pretty well. Anytime I hear a manufacturer claim something is maintenance free, I just laugh. 15 years or so ago, many manufacturers were saying that about their transmissions and that's just a farce. If there is friction, you need to change fluids. I don't know of any magical "forever" fluid" that counterbalances the realities of metallic friction. Fluids break down. That's just the way it is at this moment in time.

I just had an ignition coil blow last week and have a new set of 8 due to arrive on monday. I consider getting 285,000 miles out of a dual firing coil set to be rather extraordinary in my experience. I'll be changing out spark plugs for only the 2nd time as well. My R230 is my daily driver and it's been comparatively bulletproof. I'd say my biggest complaint is that this care eats tires at a higher rate than I've ever experienced before, but other than that,as a daily driver it's been rock solid. Biggest issue has been a complete braking systemf ailure, but now with the unlimmited mileage 25year warranty,that's no longer really a worry.Last edited by Aussiesuede; Today at 04:10 AM.
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Old Today, 09:56 AM
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Sorry to hijack this thread but, really looking for insight from Aussiesuede Re his ABC experience as owner of an R230 with 285,000 miles !

My questions:

1) When doing fluid changes what procedure did/do you use and do you do full rodeo or what?
2) What hoses went and was leak minor at crimp or @ body of hose failure and was it major leaks or minor
3) Any idea how long ago accumulators failed? I'm trying to decide if replacing the accumulators and pulsation dampener as a PM a good idea and maybe when to do this in mileage or time???
4) No valve block repairs likely a testimony to your 40K mile fluid/filter changes and maybe also result of how you do the fluid changes so reason for my question as to how you perform the flush (e.g. maybe best to use rodeo or not to use rodeo when changing fluid?).

Will REALLY appreciate your responses.

Steve
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Old 05-04-2020, 08:34 AM
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That's pretty awesome. Personally I think the ABC system gets a bad rep, if you are willing to DIY and keep up on regular fluid changes it's no more troublesome than any other system on a European car. It also works exceedingly well.
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Old 05-04-2020, 09:19 PM
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One of the main concerns is that MB, for many years, said the ABC system does not require regular maintenance so many owners did exactly nothing and everyone that bought them used wants to care for them a bit better. MB also has a transmission that needs no service...I have some swamp land to sell you too.
Old 05-09-2020, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by steve sl550
My questions:

1) When doing fluid changes what procedure did/do you use and do you do full rodeo or what?
2) What hoses went and was leak minor at crimp or @ body of hose failure and was it major leaks or minor
3) Any idea how long ago accumulators failed? I'm trying to decide if replacing the accumulators and pulsation dampener as a PM a good idea and maybe when to do this in mileage or time???
4) No valve block repairs likely a testimony to your 40K mile fluid/filter changes and maybe also result of how you do the fluid changes so reason for my question as to how you perform the flush (e.g. maybe best to use rodeo or not to use rodeo when changing fluid?).

Will REALLY appreciate your responses.

Steve
Hey Steve. Sorry for the tardiness. I don't get on as regularly as I used to. To answer your questions:

1) I drain old fluid while simultaneously pouring in new fluid until I notice no more dark fluid and everything is flowing green. Then install a new filter. Then spend about 20 minutes lowering and raising the vehicle.

2) The affected hose was PN : 2309970352. Failed both times with with a very slight leak on the left side of the hose where the rubber meets the metal coupling. The 2nd time I had a hydraulic shop manufacture a hose and fitted with AN couplers.

3) In hindsight, my rear accumulator likely failed at about 250,000 miles and the front at about 280,000 miles. At the first failing I received occasional "White" suspension visit workshop warnings, then finally got the dreaded Red "Do not drive warning and the car would only raise soon after startup,but not thereafter. The vehicle no longer handled as it did prior and did not rebound correctly when going over the lane dividing bumps on the freeway. Upon inspection I noticed my ABC reservoir was half full, but I had no leaks. That was confirmation that the Accumulator membrane had failed and sucked up the fluid. I filled the reservoir and purchased two new accumulators & a pulsation dampener. I still need to replace them all.

4) My personal belief as to why my original valve block has not failed, nor clogged, is that the system is under constant cycling. Nary a day of driving passes where I don't raise and lower the vehicle. I've never once had a sagging corner and my non scientific belief is because the system is always being used. Of course there is no way to prove that other than anecdotally. I've performed the Rodeo only once, at the very 1st fluid change. I'll admit that it is probably a superior process since when one corner is fully lowered, the diagonal corner is fully extended likely at a point that's greater than with full extension when just raising and lowering, but thus far I've been lucky enough to get away with just raising and lowering without issue.
Old 05-10-2020, 06:54 PM
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Hi Aussiesuede,

THANKS for your email response.

Based on your experience I feel a lot better about the ABC system !

I have decided to flush and new filter @ 25K mile intervals and as I believe after a lot of investigation that accumulator replacement should be a PM that I will replace accumulators @ 50K mile intervals.

I too exercise the raise/lower feature regularly and feel this too helps exercise the valve blocks and struts.

So....one more question please:
What is hose 2309970352 and how did you have AN fittings installed on both the hose and corresponding mating lines in the runs that stayed in the car ?

Once again really appreciate your insight and responses.

Steve
Old 05-30-2020, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Aussiesuede
Hey Steve. Sorry for the tardiness. I don't get on as regularly as I used to. To answer your questions:

1) I drain old fluid while simultaneously pouring in new fluid until I notice no more dark fluid and everything is flowing green. Then install a new filter. Then spend about 20 minutes lowering and raising the vehicle.



I've read for fluid change/flush we should put a new filter , do the process of flushing , and once fluid comes out clean green swap again with a new filter. Would you say leaving the old filter is suffice during the flush instead of having to basically waste a filter?
Thanks
Old 05-30-2020, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by acmw
I've read for fluid change/flush we should put a new filter , do the process of flushing , and once fluid comes out clean green swap again with a new filter. Would you say leaving the old filter is suffice during the flush instead of having to basically waste a filter?
Thanks
Firstly I’m not sure of the science but I do the same under advice from my local independent. He told me that as well as getting rid of old fluid, the act of flushing and also a rodeo, can dislodge deposits that wouldn’t normally loosen during normal driving. By removing your first filter after the flush and putting on a second you are maximising you’re chances of catching and removing those deposits.

As I said no idea if it’s scientifically correct, but my personal choice is that the price of the second filter is worth paying for a bit of perceived piece of mind.
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:25 PM
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Thanks to all the forum members for sharing knowledge and experience with these sophisticated and pleasure providing cars. Maintenance is key to longevity, especially the unwritten unpublished PREVENTATIVE ones like ABC. Just flushed with DAS RODEO today. 13 years and 30k miles seemed like timing was right. Fluid was not brown but dark green but loaded with particulate matter and the common burn smell. I chose the 1 filter change after flush with 8 liters pentosin. Unfortunately I don’t drive many miles to be anywhere close to providing input to 1 filter vs. 2 when flushing and will never approach Aussie but glad to know high mileage is possible without breaking the bank along the way. Happy and safe motoring.

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