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I have a 2004 SL600 V12. I have been trying to solve an issue with the ABC system. I had someone who was giving me some great help, unfortunately, I had a medical issue that interrupted our communication, that I am just recovering from and I messed up my contact information. The front passenger side was on the tire. Some inquiries suggested that the valve block may have been leaking and it was suggested to rebuild it, I did that and it did not solve the problem. I had it diagnosed at a Mercedes shop and I was told that the valve block actually needed to be replaced and it would solve the problem. Since I didn't want to give them $3000.00, $1000.00 for labor and $2000.00 for the part, I found a genuine Mercedes part with a Mercedes warranty for $1,350.00 and put it on myself. Issue, now the front drivers side won't respond and I am getting a reading that says "Current power of component Y36/1y3 (Right front suspension strut control valve) 0.0 mA. How do I solve this issue? Could the electrical connections on the valve block, be improperly connected?.
So, if you repeatedly press the ride height adjustment button three corners of the car move but the left-front does not? And what device is reporting the current to the control valve, and what are the circumstances where it shows zero?
The star system is giving me this feedback described in the post. I can activate the rear and passenger side front, the drivers side front does not respond. Before I replaced the valve block it was just the opposite, the passenger side front wasn't responding. I can only surmise that I failed to connect the electrical connections to the block properly.The Y36/1y3 is the valve block
Last edited by beckwithR; Jun 5, 2020 at 08:02 PM.
Reason: ADD ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
The star system is giving me this feedback described in the post.
Good. This should be easy. In DAS follow this menu path from the main screen: .
Control units > Chassis > ABC > Control unit adaptations > Level calibration > Raise and lower the suspension struts at low speed
. Read the instructions on the next screen and then proceed by pressing "F2". Now you use your PC function keys to raise/lower the suspension at each wheel. Your ability to control the wheels in this fashion will suggest the next troubleshooting step.
When you are finished, exit the menu without saving the level settings.
Last edited by bobterry99; Jun 5, 2020 at 08:11 PM.
Now my computer is telling me, Hardware fault code 1.501.0: Test cable connection from DAS to diagnostic socket and voltage supply of diagnosis multiplexer.
If you are using a C3 MUX, then ensure that its green LED is lit to indicate power is on. If it isn't, then you may have a poor connection to the OBD-II port or a blown fuse.
I spent a couple of hours today messing with it. It suggested that I connect it to a different automobile, I did and still got the same reading of a connection issue, even though the green light on the box is on. I checked the connections and they seem to be tight. I plan on checking the fuses tomorrow. It's giving me a couple of fuses to check, are there any, along with there location, that you could point out?
Only one fuse matters, and if it were not good you wouldn't have power to the MUX.
I know of two resources for hardware issues. One is *******.com. You could google your fault code and append the search with "site *******.com". Another resource is a member on the other R129 forum at Benz World named Paul600600.
Okay, got past the issue and followed your directions. I couldn't get the drivers side front to respond. the readings were, Left front 2.45 v, Right front 3.12 v, Left rear 1.59 v, Right rear 3.69 v and 193 bar.
I'd focus on manual control of the front strut. Navigate to this screen:
..
Control unit groups > Chassis > ABC > Actuations > Control and locking valve of front left suspension strut
..
Use the F5 and F7 buttons to control the strut. Based upon your earlier test, we can expect it not to work, and nothing moves. But make note of the ABC pressure and the currents flowing through the "blocking" and "control" valves. Those values will suggest the next step.
It's the one on the drivers side, right front facing the car. (Current Power of Component Y36/1y3 Rt. Frt. Suspension Strut Control Valve 0.0 ma.) This is the prompt that I get.
The prompt suggests an electrical circuit problem, but without context, i.e., the circumstances when it appears, it isn't helpful to me. Maybe you are conveying that when you click the buttons on the strut manual control screen both valve currents are zero?
When I click the buttons,F3, F5 or F7, on the strut manual control screen it says: Current Power of Component Y36/1y3 Rt. Frt. Suspension Strut Control Valve 0.0 ma.
Current Power of Y36/1y4 Rt. Frt. Suspension Blocking Valve 539.2 ma. I thought that this number (Y36/1y3 and Y36/1y4) were the numbers that identify the valve block. It is brand new.
The valve block is Y36/1. It has four valves: Y36/1y1, Y36/1y2, Y36/1y3, and Y36/1y4.
Most likely you need a replacement ABC controller, and a used one from eBay is under $50. But first I suggest checking the possibility of a poor electrical connection. To do that you access the ABC controller located in the left side of the dash, remove its electrical connector #2 (attachment), and measure the resistance between sockets #7 and #31. You should get a reading between 3.5 and 7.0 ohms. If you do, then I would replace the ABC controller.
In February you were interested in downloading the free 2008 release of DAS. If that succeeded for you, then you probably want the electrical wiring diagrams, and it is from those that I got the attachment below. The link to the diagrams is here: R230 ETM 64.
.
Last edited by bobterry99; Jun 13, 2020 at 03:55 AM.
Bob, what do you think about plugging in the drivers side control valve to the passenger side control valve connector, the passenger side control valve to the drivers side connector, and then try to raise the car with the abc height button?
This test should validate if there is damaged/disconnected wiring between the controller and driver side control valve and will also validate the drivers side control valve is functional.
I cannot think of anything that could potentially get damaged performing this test, can you?
Bob, what do you think about plugging in the drivers side control valve to the passenger side control valve connector...
That can not harm anything. Since you asked the question I suppose you know that the connectors are interchangeable (I do not.) Comparing swapping the connectors with the resistance check mentioned earlier:
If you swapped connectors and the driver side still did not work, then you would conclude there is an issue with the valve. On the other hand, if it did work and the problem moved to the passenger side, then you would conclude there was an issue with the ABC controller, the electrical connection, or the wiring.
If you perform the resistance check at the connector and the resistance is good, then you conclude the ABC controller is defective. If resistance is incorrect, then you conclude the wiring is damaged or the valve is defective.
So, I guess both methods lead to the same conclusions, and it is just a matter of whether you prefer to access the ABC controller or the rear valve block.
Okay, I have removed the panel. I see the ABC control module,the alignment isn't exactly like the diagram. Since conn. #2 is the short one in the diagram I would think it would be the short one on the module. It's also not easy to access and replacing this module appears to be a chore.
This may sound a little juvenile however, is there a particular method/Technic to separate the connectors from the module? I don't want to break or screw up anything. Also if I have to replace this module is there a video? It is really a tight space and an awkward position to work from. Thanks again for your help.
I've never seen the connectors to the ABC controller, and frustratingly at times, work instructions rarely if ever explain how to separate connectors. That said, with larger ECU connectors it is common to find a grey part of the connector which rotates 90 degrees to lock/unlock the connector to the ECU. So look for one of these type connectors.
Do you have the WIS instructions? If not, Peter (pmercury) will probably post them if asked.
I haven't performed that electrical check, as I am still trying to decide if I want to tackle the installation of the module if necessary. I Haven't found a video yet and it looks like a real close space.
If accessing the electrical connector for a resistance check is a hassle, then I personally would be comfortable with buying the $50 replacement ECU from eBay.
Just wanted to give you an update on my issue. I went as far as I could and then I took it to a shop I am familiar with. It was an electrical connection and I had bent one of the pins. The system is working fine now.
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