The other day I was sitting stationary, with foot on the brake and noticed that suddenly multiple lights flashed on and off on my dash,, roll bar, srs, battery, restraint etc. They came on for split seconds and off again? The car drove fine, then today it did the same but just when I stop and press brake, it's as if there is a loose connection, do these cars have the infamous brake pedal switch, I've experienced this is past Mercedes.

 

The flashing dash it's something that i experienced when my EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch) went bad. See this link, what i've been to and how much i had to pay. When it happened to me, couple years ago, it was a dealer only job, with a new part. There might be a indy who might do this, but not 100% sure. When i researched everything i found only a handful of mentions of this issue in other threads.

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...t-nowhere.html

Regards.

 

My route to a failing EIS was dash lights, failing wipers, a relay in probably the roll bar rattling, safety belt tensioner acting at will, Comand dying intermittently. There seemed to be a mechanical trigger, that I have happily forgotten about, like a certain radius turn or something. One wonders if solid state electronics are likely to start acting up like that, without any mechanical trigger. Replacing the EIS, against dealer advice, did solve all my symptoms instantly and -up to now- permanently.

 

Interesting it could be the EIS. I always use the keyless go and start the car using the gear knob etc, I wonder if I should start using the key once in a while to keep the lock active?

this may be a coincidence, but I noticed that my heater grille intake had some water at the bottom and was not draining away at the hood, I checked the carpet on the passenger side it was dry, I have now cleared the blocked drain too.

 

Happened to me when my Consumer Battery was on way out. Whats your battery condition like?

 

The EIS and the key lock are not the same. Both the key lock and the starter button address the EIS for approval. But I guess using the key lock now and then would be sensible in general.

 

Starter button and key ignition have the same exact function - they go through the EIS regardless. That will not make a difference on the starting process. But all the rest Frederick is right

 

My battery is new, just bought it in the summer direct from Mercedes

 

today I used the key and so far no light issues. I ran a diagnostic on the EIS and found no stored faults so will monitor over time.

 

I recently had the check engine light come on. Hooked up DAS. P00014. Replaced the camshaft solenoids (aka magnets). Hooked up DAS again to clear the code, then confirmed with a quick diagnostic check. I thought I was being really quick, so did not hook up the battery charger. My bad. The consumer battery (new in the last 6 months) was drained, and I got a veritable Christmas tree display of lights when I started the car Including roll bar, SBS,SBC, etc.. Hooked up the battery charger. Hooked up DAS again to clear any new codes. Fully charged the battery. Next start, all perfect. A low consumer battery will definitely result in the light show.

 

I have had a low consumer battery before I changed it and all I got was the 'convenience functions are not operating' etc until the battery charged after a bout 10mins and the message would go, but I did not have any flashing lights?

so far though day 3, I have been using the key as well as keyless and the lights have stayed away.

 

Yes, I should have said CAN cause the light show. I also have had the same experience with only the 'convenience functions' warning when my consumer battery was going bad. Maybe a function of just how drained it is?

 

The consumers off line message is when your acc battery is low, not dying. Getting that message after the car was parked for a week or so wouldn't worry me much. If you get a light show in relation with the rear battery status, that would suggest it needs to be replaced. Or a good battery would have been seriously depleted by an unruly stationary draw or a charging failure.

 

i've installed a mini volt meter in the ashtray months ago for this exact reason so I can keep an eye on what the battery voltage is like and to check that the alternator voltage reg is giving out around 14.1 and 14.2 Volts constant.
I get 12.2V before turning engine on and 14.2V when engine running.