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Now that's a thought! You may even make it into production :P
Just a suggestion, You may want to make it with serrated internal side wall as it will gives a better grip. I would still use potting compound or JB weld since the pin is under tension load most of the time. Would like to see how it turn out. Good luck.
Okay, so the prototype fitment was great, but the material (PLA used for initial testing) is too brittle. The layer direction also made it weaker and it snapped off identically to the factory one. I originally printed it vertically, like a tower, which doesn't yield itself to strong shear strength.
Nylon filament is in the dryer (it draws in ambient moisture when sitting, causing print inconsistencies), and will print a horizontal version, like a torpedo.
Okay, so the prototype fitment was great, but the material (PLA used for initial testing) is too brittle. The layer direction also made it weaker and it snapped off identically to the factory one. I originally printed it vertically, like a tower, which doesn't yield itself to strong shear strength.
Nylon filament is in the dryer (it draws in ambient moisture when sitting, causing print inconsistencies), and will print a horizontal version, like a torpedo.
Just a thought. Make a tapering nose section may aid for alignment. No side load impact until further into the housing. Can you tell us where's the the snapped off, may be a pic?!
Okay, so the prototype fitment was great, but the material (PLA used for initial testing) is too brittle. The layer direction also made it weaker and it snapped off identically to the factory one. I originally printed it vertically, like a tower, which doesn't yield itself to strong shear strength.
Nylon filament is in the dryer (it draws in ambient moisture when sitting, causing print inconsistencies), and will print a horizontal version, like a torpedo.
Another option would be the HP process with Nylon. It is a powder process and has excellent strength in all dimensions. Jawstec and Shapeways both offer the process and are inexpensive. They have filled and unfilled Nylons, I would probably go with the unfilled since a more flexible part is probably of benefit here.
Another option would be the HP process with Nylon. It is a powder process and has excellent strength in all dimensions. Jawstec and Shapeways both offer the process and are inexpensive. They have filled and unfilled Nylons, I would probably go with the unfilled since a more flexible part is probably of benefit here.
Was debating on ordering the filament myself, like NylonX or NylonK, but I need a different print nozzle. Still an option, just not right now in this protyping process, lol
Quick update. Horizontally printed nylon dowel is working thus far, no glue/adhesive to attach it, either, but I suspect I need to adjust the internal dimensions a small amount. I ground one in half and lined it up, I'm maybe 0.5mm too narrow on the insides. I may also remove the "bulb" at the end and make it a cone with a small lip, as I don't think the current one is snapping onto the metal rod.
The polar vortex also played with me. It was 7 degrees F here in north east San Antonio and didn't get above freezing for about 5 days, I had no electricity, no water, no cell service, it was fantastic! LOL! I did have a generator running my furnace, which is gas, and had plenty of food & water on-hand, so I actually enjoyed it. Then a week later it was 80 degrees F, go figure.
Anyway, I think that temperature swing had some impact on the car, as it wouldn't start. Turns out the fuel pump fuse became corroded during those two week. Cleaned off the spade terminals on the fuse, reseated it a couple times, fired right up, top works like a champ.
Bought a 2008 SL350 about 6 months ago, and has enjoyed driving it, especially with the roof down. However, problems soon arise.
I have a question that I think is related to the priming of the hydraulic pump as well, hence me posting here.
Situation is like this:
Initially I found that there was a leak in the roof hydraulic system. Oil in the reservoir keeps becoming empty, but we cant detect any leaks.
Roof can open and close without any issue when there's oil in the reservoir, but averaging after about 4 to 5 cycles of opening and closing, it will become empty again.
Numerous visits to my regular workshop also resulted in frequent topping up of hydraulic fluid, but still no sign of where the leaks are.
All 11 cylinders were physically checked and the leak wasn't there.
Finally after own monitoring, I found that the leak was within the pump block itself. Between the solenoids and the pump valve block.
I removed the pump, dismantled the components and found that the 3 O-Rings between the valve block were flat. It was also likely the previous owner had put silicon around it, and with the silicon failing, resulting in the leak.
I cleaned up the pump, replaced all 3 o-rings and pieced everything together. Plugged all the hoses back, refilled the reservoir, reconnected all the plugs and wiring, and tried to open the roof.
Good news? No more leak.
Bad news? Roof doesn't open. Like, at all.
When I pull the switch to open the roof, I can hear the hydraulic pump running, and the trunk pops open slightly, but that's it. No movement. I've attached a picture of the trunk stopped in half open state.
I usually just leave repairs etc to my regular workshop to sort out, but this time, they said their supplier for parts are facing a shortage, not to mention a rarely replaced part like the roof hydraulic pump.
That's why I decided to try doing it myself.
Some has suggested that after dismantling and reassembling the hydraulic pump block, we need to prime it or it will not function due to air lock. Pump is running, but no hydraulic fluid is being pumped to the valve block due to air in the system. Could this be the case?
As this is the first time I'm going hands-on to do my own repairs, I appreciate any and all advice or suggestions that I can try to hopefully resolve the issue.
You should be able to work the air out by exercising the roll bar and roof. Have someone hold the switch and help the trunk open. Make sure that you keep the fluid topped off. You might need a few cycles to get it operating smoothly. Also, do you remember what o-ring sizes were required?
I don't want to be a downer, but once you have full pressure again, be prepared for the cylinders begin to fail like dominos. That happened to mine a few years ago and what started this all. Top lock cylinder failed, then trunk lift, then another...
I have no other input, as my pump is different than yours.
You should be able to work the air out by exercising the roll bar and roof. Have someone hold the switch and help the trunk open. Make sure that you keep the fluid topped off. You might need a few cycles to get it operating smoothly. Also, do you remember what o-ring sizes were required?
Yea, I tried this for few days, but still unable to get any pressure into the system. Able to hear the pump running, but no movement.
Not sure on the O-ring sizes. I brought the whole pump unit to the seal company and just let them fit them with replacement o-rings.
I don't want to be a downer, but once you have full pressure again, be prepared for the cylinders begin to fail like dominos. That happened to mine a few years ago and what started this all. Top lock cylinder failed, then trunk lift, then another...
I have no other input, as my pump is different than yours.
No worries, at least replacements for the cylinders can be found by my workshop. Its just the pump.
Most funny thing is, my normal trunk opening runs on the hydraulic pump as well, as i have 2 extra hydraulic hoses attached to the pump. That section works fine. Just not the roof.
I'm literally pulling my hair out, trying to solve this.
Was going to ask that, but I'm assuming the trunk locks won't release if that's open.
Have you tried manually pulling on the trunk lid to get it to open while the pump is running?
Also dumb question, have you checked that all the lines are in the correct spot on the valve block?
Actually, I wonder if it's switch S118/1 or S118/2 not signaling the trunk is actually unlocked and ready to flip up, essentially failing during Stage 1 and not continuing. I had a similar issue where it couldn't tell the driver's window position, so it stopped with the trunk flipped up. The motor ran, everything appear normal, but just stopped.
Stage 1 of the roof opening sequence: Next (y5) energizes, causing cylinder 3 to unlock the front Vario roof locks. Switches S69/2 & /3 confirm it’s not locked. Next, cylinders 4 & 5 unlock the tubular frame. Switches S118/1 & S118/2 confirm it’s not locked. Front windows move to short stroke position, rear windows open completely. Cylinder 8 causes trunk lid to move to the raised position. Switch S119 confirms trunk lid is raised.
Is the power trunk the only thing working? No roll bar, load assist, or roof? Also, I'm assuming that the bypass is closed?
Power Trunk is working.
Roll Bar when pressed works very slowly.
No Roof. I can see the hydraulic locks unlock when I activate the roof opening switch.
Bypass is closed. I made the mistake of trying to open the roof with the bypass open once. Massive cleanup of hydraulic oil all over the trunk area. (Just FYI for those who are thinking of trying with the bypass open)
Was going to ask that, but I'm assuming the trunk locks won't release if that's open.
Have you tried manually pulling on the trunk lid to get it to open while the pump is running?
Also dumb question, have you checked that all the lines are in the correct spot on the valve block?
Actually, I wonder if it's switch S118/1 or S118/2 not signaling the trunk is actually unlocked and ready to flip up, essentially failing during Stage 1 and not continuing. I had a similar issue where it couldn't tell the driver's window position, so it stopped with the trunk flipped up. The motor ran, everything appear normal, but just stopped.
Stage 1 of the roof opening sequence: Next (y5) energizes, causing cylinder 3 to unlock the front Vario roof locks. Switches S69/2 & /3 confirm it’s not locked. Next, cylinders 4 & 5 unlock the tubular frame. Switches S118/1 & S118/2 confirm it’s not locked. Front windows move to short stroke position, rear windows open completely. Cylinder 8 causes trunk lid to move to the raised position. Switch S119 confirms trunk lid is raised.
Do the windows move down that 1/2 inch or so?
Yep, Tried manually pulling the trunk open while pump is running. Doesnt work. Cant pull anything at all.
Yep, checked all lines are in the correct spot on the valve. Took out all the inner trunk lining just to trace every single line to its cylinder.
Yes, stuck at Stage 1, and doesnt proceed at all.
I suspect its somewhere along the lines of the switch as well, but not sure on how to verify it.
Yes, the windows move down that 1/2 inch upon activation of the roof switch. I even tried activating the switch with all windows down. No go.
Since you are apparently building pressure for the power trunk, it appears that the pump itself is building pressure. The power trunk is on a different circuit, so it is still possible that you have a problem with internal seals or relief valves in the pump, but I would start with the cylinders and check for bypass. If you energize the pump with the load assist, you will have pressure on the rod side of the roll bar, front lock, frame locks, and frame cylinders. The piston side lines should not have flow with just the load assist activated. These lines are 60, 30, 33 & 34, and 32. You can remove them, put them in a container, and press the load assist button.
When you activate the roll bar, the pump also pressurizes the front lock, the frame locks and the frame lift cylinders all on the rod end. A serious bypass leak on any of these will reduce the pressure available in the system. The Mercedes test is to plug all of these pressure lines, install a pressure gage, activate the pump via DAS and check pressure. However, you can also remove the pistons side lines, activate the pump with load assist, and check for flow. That will tell you exactly which cylinder(s) are leaking past the piston seals.
When you activate the roll bar, the pump also pressurizes the front lock, the frame locks and the frame lift cylinders all on the rod end. A serious bypass leak on any of these will reduce the pressure available in the system. The Mercedes test is to plug all of these pressure lines, install a pressure gage, activate the pump via DAS and check pressure. However, you can also remove the pistons side lines, activate the pump with load assist, and check for flow. That will tell you exactly which cylinder(s) are leaking past the piston seals.
Yea, I check. None of the cylinders are leaking. Prior to the pump issue, everything was working fine, only minor leaks on the pump itself. All cylinders were dry during operations.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
If that is correct you have the symptoms that Bobterry99 and I had: a slow to very slow operation, no apparent leaks. It lasted for months, started immediately after an MB dealer had slightly topped up the reservoir. I did an oil swap, tilted the pump to help eventual air escape - nothing helped. Then one day things suddenly turned normal. Sticky valve, air pocket, who knows.
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