Throwing parts at an R230 is a known money pit. Find someone/somewhere who has a proper diagnosing system. Besides, that flap is not in proper position. It will fail to activate its microswitch like that.
Throwing parts at an R230 is a known money pit. Find someone/somewhere who has a proper diagnosing system. Besides, that flap is not in proper position. It will fail to activate its microswitch like that.
I wish I could find a honest shop all of them I took to says I need to have my cylinders and pump rebuilds. That’s BS because pump and cylinders all works they operate with the leveler. This is why I choose to tackle this job on my own. If I going to be throwing parts into it atleast I know it’s new parts and exactly what has been replaced. As of now I just can’t get the flaps to open and close with the leveler. Maybe there’s another switch I should be looking into. I ordered the foxwell 510 elite scanner made for Mercedes hopefully it’ll help.
The Foxwell will definitely help. The roof is a very complex system and it difficult to check prox switch positions with a meter. You might have fixed a problem with S119 and created another one with the flap not completely closed. It can still be some work to troubleshoot with a scanner, but at least you aren't flying blind.
The Foxwell will definitely help. The roof is a very complex system and it difficult to check prox switch positions with a meter. You might have fixed a problem with S119 and created another one with the flap not completely closed. It can still be some work to troubleshoot with a scanner, but at least you aren't flying blind.
i was able to get a hand on the scanner to use for a day while I wait for mine to come. Here are the 2 codes I get.
First B1265-002 (I got this code with both new and old parts)
You mentioned with the old flap motor, 1 flap opened but not the other. Now with the new flap motor, none of them flip open at all!?
There are 2 micro switchs within each flap area. When you install the flaps tightend them against the trunk surface, you should be able to hear the click sound.
As I said early, make sure motor is working. Can verify easily with it out of the car. Connect 12V to it. Flip the +ve and -ve to reverse the motor. Cables should be extended or retracted accordingly. That would be your first step to try within the flaps system.
The B1265-2 code actually applies to both S126/1 and S127/1, the two switches are in series so both would have to be stuck, or the wire from S127/1 to the roof module is shorted to ground.
According to DAS: Unplug connector 1 on the roof module and unplug the connector at S127/1 (right side flap). Check Pins 34 and 47 on the roof module connector that you just unplugged for continuity to ground. If those are OK (not grounded) unplug the left side (S126/1) and check pins 2 and 3 on the harness side to ground. They should also not have continuity to ground.
However, I think that you are getting this code because the controller thinks it is deploying the flaps, but they stay closed. It doesn't make sense to set a code just because the flaps are in the stowed position, that is normal when the roof is closed. I would try to actuate the flaps with the Foxwell and see what happens. According to DAS, in order to do this the roof must be closed, tubular frame open, and trunk latch closed (rotary tumbler).
My guess is that you have a bad wire from the controller to the flap motor, or probably more likely a bad relay in the roof controller.
I agree with this:
But he won't be able to use the Foxwell to actuate the flaps, since this is the one basic Star Diagnosis function which I discovered it does not replicate. Therefore, another approach may be to unplug the connector to the flaps motor and monitor the control voltage during a roof opening cycle.
Bob, thanks for clarifying that. I wanted to verify that the flap system was working so that the problem could be isolated to 1) a problem with the flap system, or 2) that the flaps are not commanded because of a prox switch or some other issue. Given that he won't be able to do that, I would start by verifying the position of S119. If the roof control does not see the tubular frame as open, it will not command the flap extension. Once that is verified, I would check for voltage at pins 5 & 6 of X8/4. The best method would be to leave it connected and back probe the wires. If the relay is going bad, you might have voltage with it unplugged (no load), but not when it is connected.
That's good news. When you get that fixed, make sure that your flap limit switches are working properly to turn off the flaps motor on both extend and retract. That trace got pretty hot, it could have been a case of the motor trying to continue to run. I don't know what protection the controller has for that or for high amp draw. I did notice that there is no code for excess current on the flaps motor like there is for the windows, so it would appear that it just relies on the fuse for overload.
I was able to find a place to fix the controller same day for $50. After I plug it back in everything work exactly like how it should. I want to take this time to thanks everyone on this forum for being patient and helping me to solve my roof problem.
next project is to convert everything inside to black. With the roof open it’s so much easier to access all the panels
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
