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Need help identifying plugs passenger rear compartment
Hello, my name is Nos and I’m from south Florida. Couple weeks ago I pickup a 2003 sl500 with extremely low miles. However the roof doesn’t work, roll bar stuck and the gauge cluster says in operation with a picture of the roof open. After digging I notice under passenger rear compartment there’s a plug that is unplugged. I know this area holds the sem, fuses and roof control module. Can someone please help me identify if this is normal. Also the hydraulic pump in this car was once replaced with 07+ model and the switch in the console as well. Thanks in advance.
The rectangular plug with all the small plugs and brown/red wires is just the CANbus hub, it clips to the lower left side of the fuse box. It’s normal for it to have missing plugs like that. I bet the previous owner had a Smarttop module and removed it prior to selling the car.
Last edited by sivikvtec; Feb 16, 2021 at 05:37 PM.
One of the limit switches which signal the position of the roof to the controller is in an incorrect state. I'll guess it is the one located at the top-left area of the windshield.
If you have a multimeter you can check all of the switches. If you want to proceed and need guidance, reply back.
yes please any help would be wonderful
how do I go with checking the switches. In ohm or voltage? I removed the front trims to access both front lock to be able to tighten the roof. I notice on the roof the right side little black rod is shorter then left side.
The long plug you were holding, it's supposed to mated with that long aluminum bracket in one of your pic.
If I recall, you push it into the slot of the 90 degree bracket and slide aft to click it in place.
As for your top, just scroll down on the first forum page and look for someone's recent posts. Titled "How to bleed or prime vario roof Hyd..." The switch is on the top right hand side of your windshield, not top left. Sounds like you have the same problem.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
If all that fixes your roof, then congratulations! The roll bar is supposed to lower itself before the controller will start opening the roof. If the hydraulics have been stagnant for a while I would suggest you check the oil level in the pump first. Then lower the roll bar, raise and lower it again, with the push buttons under the roof switch. When raised, the roll bar should ‘click in’ audibly. It won’t go down if it hasn’t, so be persistent when raising it. Then - the roof!
It would be nice to hear if a 2007 pump works in a 2003 car without further ado.
Oh and is your left dash display blurred or did you blur it in the photo (secret mileage..)?
You measure ohms. But I don't think you need bother to check any switches...
I've had this problem with two cars, and it is surely your problem. You can slide a plastic straw over it and then cut it to make it long enough to engage the limit switch located in the hole which guides the rod.
just did the straw trick still gets same message. I forgot to mention it says lock roof when I drive it around the blocks. I tried measuring voltages on the wires for this top right switch getting no voltage. What are the ohm this switch should be at?
Originally Posted by Frederick NL
If all that fixes your roof, then congratulations! The roll bar is supposed to lower itself before the controller will start opening the roof. If the hydraulics have been stagnant for a while I would suggest you check the oil level in the pump first. Then lower the roll bar, raise and lower it again, with the push buttons under the roof switch. When raised, the roll bar should ‘click in’ audibly. It won’t go down if it hasn’t, so be persistent when raising it. Then - the roof!
It would be nice to hear if a 2007 pump works in a 2003 car without further ado.
Oh and is your left dash display blurred or did you blur it in the photo (secret mileage..)?
just did the straw trick still gets same message. I forgot to mention it says lock roof when I drive it around the blocks. I tried measuring voltages on the wires for this top right switch getting no voltage. What are the ohm this switch should be at?
You will get the lock roof warning when driving if the roof latches are not both closed (S69/2 and S69/3) AND the roof is not seen as open by the rear limit switch (S69/11). It won't latch until the front limit switch (S69/1) indicates that the roof is closed.
just did the straw trick still gets same message. I forgot to mention it says lock roof when I drive it around the blocks. I tried measuring voltages on the wires for this top right switch getting no voltage. What are the ohm this switch should be at?
the gauge is low and the sunlight doesn’t help
Hi, I have no experience with arc opening. Can the crossbar be opened and closed when the roof is closed?
Finally today nice and not raining. I manually opened the roof to have more access to everything. I replaced passenger rear small window since it was moving very slow. Tested both rear flaps with trunk in service mode and both work. I do notice my roof will not go all the way down into the trunk. Seem like it stuck on something restricting it from going all the way down. I removed all carpets to see if it’ll help same result. I turned the top screw on the pump to release pressure still nothing. Next to the motor is the 2 wire plugs every time I unplugs them I hear the pump going so I’m assume the pump work.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
I presume you found the bypass valve on the pump since you manually opened the roof. Its position although a bit low, looks similar to the easy pack position. Don’t know if a’logic’ function is keeping it there or if something hard is hitting something hard. I’ll find the MB trouble shooting guide for you, with detailed step by step fault finding.
Your plastic covering to the left is missing a square push pin, take care, that is a vulnerable part.
Last edited by Frederick NL; Feb 20, 2021 at 03:03 PM.
I presume you found the bypass valve on the pump since you manually opened the roof. Its position although a bit low, looks similar to the easy pack position. Don’t know if a’logic’ function is keeping it there or if something hard is hitting something hard. I’ll find the MB trouble shooting guide for you, with detailed step by step fault finding.
Your plastic covering to the left is missing a square push pin, take care, that is a vulnerable part.
heres the 07+ pump that is in my 03. I release the top bolt oil did came out after an hour. Still roof doesn’t go all the way down. I rechecked all around where the trunk roof goes inside the trunk nothing is there empty and enough space for it to go down. If you look at the last picture I posted this part suppose to go flat when the roof is in the correct position inside the trunk. Maybe there a another way to depressurize the pump on this new pump model?
Here’s how the front lock cylinder looks like. I see a little bit of oils. Tested both front lock switches and both have ohms. And the right front roof latch switch also have ohms. Still stuck in operation mode.
If I recalled a working system will lower the rollbar automatically (if it was at up position) into the stowed position before hardtop can be open or close. Once Top operation is done, rollbar will be raised back up. Something not quite right.
Don't take this the wrong way, but you are all over the place and need to focus on one thing at a time. Everything you said early on points to a broken alignment pin on the right side resulting in a failure to actuate the roof closed switch. This will result in the roof closing, but not locking, continued 'roof in operation' on the dash and the 'lock roof' message once you start driving. If you don't have a diagnostic tool, step one is to check continuity on S69/1, the switch on windshield side of the right latch WITH THE ROOF CLOSED. If the switch is open (infinite or very high resistance), you have a problem with the switch or the alignment pin. If the switch is made (0 or very low resistance), you might still have an issue with with wiring, the OCP (this switch is read by the Overhead Control Panel) or CAN B communication between the OCP and the roof module. Start with step one, fix the pin or switch if that is the issue, move on to other issues if roof is still not working. If you do have a diagnostic tool, just check the S69/1 status at the roof module.
Don't take this the wrong way, but you are all over the place and need to focus on one thing at a time. Everything you said early on points to a broken alignment pin on the right side resulting in a failure to actuate the roof closed switch. This will result in the roof closing, but not locking, continued 'roof in operation' on the dash and the 'lock roof' message once you start driving. If you don't have a diagnostic tool, step one is to check continuity on S69/1, the switch on windshield side of the right latch WITH THE ROOF CLOSED. If the switch is open (infinite or very high resistance), you have a problem with the switch or the alignment pin. If the switch is made (0 or very low resistance), you might still have an issue with with wiring, the OCP (this switch is read by the Overhead Control Panel) or CAN B communication between the OCP and the roof module. Start with step one, fix the pin or switch if that is the issue, move on to other issues if roof is still not working. If you do have a diagnostic tool, just check the S69/1 status at the roof module.
okay reporting back. The front upper right switch work. I stuck a piece of plastic on the switch now the messages say roof closed. Next I found out that the roll bar top rod connection that connect the rod to the roll bar was disconnect. This is why it didn’t do any when I press the switches. Reconnected the rod and the roll bar now fixed and work with the switches underneath the leveler. Next when I lift the roof leveler to open the roof both front lock unlocked, main windows moved down a little bit and both rear windows went all the way down and the trunk swing back on it own however the flaps doesn’t open. When I use the leveler to close everything close back up no problem. I tested the flaps the other day and notice it wasn’t moving fast. So I’m going to buy that part and replace it this week and see it does any difference. Will report back with results. Thanks everyone for your patient and help
That's good progress. I would check switch S119 to make sure that it is made. The flaps won't attempt to extend until the tubular frame is fully open and confirmed by S119.
That's good progress. I would check switch S119 to make sure that it is made. The flaps won't attempt to extend until the tubular frame is fully open and confirmed by S119.
I would like to replace it too just in case. Is there a part numbers for this switch S119?
That switch is attached to the cylinder that lifts the tubular frame (opens the trunk backwards). It is located just behind the hydraulic pump. There is no real reason to replace it if it isn't failed, but the plastic rod does tend to fail. P/N is 230 820 49 10
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
You said the flaps are moving slow. So, they do move. One thing I noticed, working on them, is that the mechanism moved unbelievably heavy. Greased it, of course, and that did the trick for my car. So you may be replacing something expensive that just needs simple TLC. And perhaps the pair of two re-designed parts in the mechanism, sold by MB readily and at an affordable price.
You said the flaps are moving slow. So, they do move. One thing I noticed, working on them, is that the mechanism moved unbelievably heavy. Greased it, of course, and that did the trick for my car. So you may be replacing something expensive that just needs simple TLC. And perhaps the pair of two re-designed parts in the mechanism, sold by MB readily and at an affordable price.
Ive tried greasing and lubing it and replaced with the stronger brackets same results. Left side open fine however right side moving like a turtle. I found a low miles used part off eBay and the seller is within my state. So if anything I can always return it.
You already went so far...panel off, tried with new brackets...etc. If it is mine, I would took the motor off (just 3 screws) and test it with 12V. Retract, lube cables and motor (with flaps off) and see what's binding.
Flaps are nothing but rack and pinion configuration. If installed properly, there should not be any binding at all. Before reinstall motor, retract cable so flaps are at stowed position.
You already went so far...panel off, tried with new brackets...etc. If it is mine, I would took the motor off (just 3 screws) and test it with 12V. Retract, lube cables and motor (with flaps off) and see what's binding.
Flaps are nothing but rack and pinion configuration. If installed properly, there should not be any binding at all. Before reinstall motor, retract cable so flaps are at stowed position.
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