When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for parts before I disassemble my suspension.
Does anybody know if the RMT front sway is just a rebranded SL350 bar? Is it actually any bigger?
Besides that I've called H&R; they won't comment on swapped equipment unless it's designed for the specific car which no one seems to touch with a ten foot pole .
I'm not interested in VVK unless they sell a setup from KW or Bilstein in their pkg.
Has anyone tried a W210 front bar? sure looks similar https://rebuildmastertech.com/merced...ng-conversion/ https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Merce...001_2002_2003/
Hary, I am one of those who refuses to pay $600 for a sway bar, I have searched around for a stock to use from a junkyard and none of them are just an straight fit. The W210 bar is mounted in the rear of the suspension and had a couple of issues, the mounting brackets are in a 30" centers, the SL is in a 33" centers, also the dip below is too narrow to use in the front of the suspension. In the W210 only clears the transmission.
I am actually modifying one of these W210 bars to fit my SL and plan to install it from the rear of the suspension, but to do that you need equipment! My SL was retrofitted with Lesjofors springs and Bilstein struts, have been driving without a sway bar, but I have detected that it needs at least the front one!
I agree about costs of sway bars.
We can all help each other here by adding what we collectively know and wind up with something we can use
So, given the minimum size needed 33" and at least 30mm diameter this is a start.
Other options could be W219 https://www.ebay.com/itm/12372967984...0AAOSwfwFcrQa0
I have an installed RMT Bar and it is no rebrand it is much thicker than that 350 bar. They are very responsive and you can speak to their engineer. Nice Guy!
Hary, I have not seen a W219 sway bar yet...no many of those in junkyards..! In relation to the bar diameter, all depends where the bar is applying the force. If the bar is connected to the lower arm,
near where the lower arm attaches to the chassis, it would need more rigidity than a configuration where the bar is attached farther from that attachment point. That is why a CLclass bar is 30mm in diameter, and the E class is 26 mm. The SL attachment point is as far as it could be from the lower arm attachment point, therefore, does not need to be that rigid. The bar I am using from an E430 is 26 mm and I think will be plenty to do the job..! On rear fit, there is no need to detach subframe..!
Below is a pic. showing important dimensions for fitment.
I too refused to pay what would end up being nearly £700 for the front bar. I fitted front and rear SL350 bars at a cost of £312 for both.. My experience is that they are perfectly fine. I can't see how a bar any thicker would improve it. The key to all of it is proper set up of corner weights, shock settings, ride height and geometry. My car now corners flatter and feels more secure and predictable than it ever did on its worn out ABC. Looks better too.
I too refused to pay what would end up being nearly £700 for the front bar. I fitted front and rear SL350 bars at a cost of £312 for both.. My experience is that they are perfectly fine. I can't see how a bar any thicker would improve it. The key to all of it is proper set up of corner weights, shock settings, ride height and geometry. My car now corners flatter and feels more secure and predictable than it ever did on its worn out ABC. Looks better too.
The SL350 was never imported to the US, so we'd either have to buy the bar/links/etc. new through a dealer or find used parts from an overseas seller willing to ship to the US.
The SL350 was never imported to the US, so we'd either have to buy the bar/links/etc. new through a dealer or find used parts from an overseas seller willing to ship to the US.
I bought them from a dealer in UK but they were special order from Germany. I think US dealers can do the same, I've read other posts from people that have done it. The links etc are available aftermarket from suppliers who ship worldwide.
I started to disassemble the car. Much of the system is fully functional. Looks like the Accumulator I purchased from my local MB dealer less than 4 yrs ago has failed. Maybe I should re think this. Thankfully I caught this before it lost too much fluid.
You merely chose to neuter a perfectly good AMG and add the lowest performance level available. Bold choice
Thank you for the entirely incorrect misquote.
Besides an almost word for word quote of what I made about someone else using coils without sway bars, your's is a false statement.
I haven't chose neutered anything (yet) and unfortunately you mistakenly provided a "perfectly good AMG" for my use. Had I access to a 55 I'd be happy to though
FWIW; maybe read my post just above this also for some retrospect
Don't Canadian Dealers have those bars for the 350?
When I was researching I definitely read of a Canadian owner who had bought them from Germany via a dealer. In fact I think he used the whole SL350 set up, shocks, springs and anti roll bars.
When I was researching I definitely read of a Canadian owner who had bought them from Germany via a dealer. In fact I think he used the whole SL350 set up, shocks, springs and anti roll bars.
Yes, I managed to get MB Canada to bring in the German computer listings for the SL350 (never sold in Canada or the US), so I was able to order all of the SL350 coil-overs and sway-bars with all fittings.
My local dealer in Ontario ordered and received the imported parts at no extra charge and same dealer installed all parts (except front sway-bar). There was a small clearance issue with bar touching the sump (as I have the SL55 AMG with bigger engine sump), which means you require to have two small alloy spacers made fo mounting to gain clearance. I have used the car for some time, with no problems, minus the front sway-bar. I'm planning getting spacers made and having dealer install front sway bar later.
By the way, I'm still researching something I heard about, using longer adustable drop-links instead of spacers?
Geo, you say you are driving your SL55 with coil over with no sway bar without problems...! Surely all roads over there are perfectly flat..! I have the same situation where I installed the coil overs, and no sway bar yet......driving and taking turns is not an issue, but when you are trying to cross in a 45 degree angle from a flat surface to an inclined surface in a way that most of the car weight is in the two diagonal wheels, these wheels sink too much into the fenders and may touch around..! The sway bar will apply an extra down force to the front wheel to reduce this sinking in..! I have a modified E430 bar that I am planning to install and call this a done deal!
Hary, perhaps sharing my methods may be helpful when trying to fit an stock bar from any other vehicle. In my case, I just built a PVC replica of what I needed and "modified" the stock bar to follow the pattern. The advantage is that I can place the PVC mock-up in the vehicle without disassembling anything but the front wheels..!
Then, if the fit is correct, I can "unmistakably" place the steel bar in it! It also works for "replicating" a SL 350 bar and verify that the fit is correct with no removal of the subframe.
Well my friends, I finally completed the installation of my "unique" sway bar. The bar mounts from the rear of the sub-frame similarly to the E-430.
The portion of the chassis where the bracket is bolted, was too thin, So I used an intermediate mounting U bracket. The links are the same as in the E430, but shortened and re-oriented. The part connecting to the lower arm is custom made in Aluminum.
05-16-2022, 04:16 PM
