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Hello all, recently picked up a 04 sl500. One of the hydraulic cylinders leaks bad. I’ve kept the top down to enjoy the weather but now it’s time to get it closed so I can repair the cylinder. It leaks too fast and the top won’t close by itself. Is it okay to more less assist the top by lifting it some while the button is being pushed? Not wanting to fully manually do it as I’m worried I’d have to have a computer to manually close the side flaps and need some sort of reset?
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Manually assisting the pump in closing the roof is no option in my book. Instead, I would open the bypass valve on the pump and manually reverse the trunk lid and close the roof. Once that is done (see other threads for the how to's), you can let the car take of the flaps and trunk lid.
Okay
I’ll do that then. This is my current progress. From my understanding I need to release the pump pressure but I don’t get where I did that at. I see the two screws on the pump itself but the vid I have it shows another screw which I don’t see on my pump. After that it seems I need to release the two side brackets with the Allen wrench but they won’t budge at all. I’m lost lol
Thank you so much. I tried turning both ways and no luck. I’m wondering since I have the trunk popped in the backwards position instead of flipped forward maybe that could be why the bolts won’t budge ?
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
IIRC the unlocking of the tubular frame is done by turning one side clockwise and the other side anti clockwise. In my car that does take a bit of effort and I think I took it in steps so as not to put friction on the tube and locks. Make sure the bypass is open.
Well
we got the top closed for the most part. The front windows won’t fully close as I assume something is off or not being told it’s closed without a pc. I’m impatient and snapped one of the rear flap rods. I’m hoping to find a part out to replace that broken piece.
Sadly and stupidly I tried to bend them by hand to make them move. I was irritated and impatient. Hoping I haven’t done too much damage. I’ll have to make a bolt or find a part out.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Added info for all: (un)locking the tubular frame locks is of course done with the provided hex key. On the left side, open by turning anti clockwise. Close by turning clockwise.
On the right side it is the opposite.
In other words, with the hex key facing upward, on both L and R side, pull to open and push to close.
Last edited by Frederick NL; Nov 12, 2022 at 05:40 AM.
Just ordered a used set of flaps, motor and all lines for said setup. Tried to make a bolt for the one I snapped but the way it’s made figured was best to get replacement. Once it comes in I’ll follow the procedure and manually close the flaps. My question is where exactly is the control box you have to jump power to? I assume trunk but where ?
Some progress made. Installed new flap assembly, also installed a new throttle pedal unit. I removed the leaking top cylinder and will be sending it out to have rebuilt. Then I’m hoping all will be good to go.
I finally received my rebuilt cylinder and installed it. Now the top is working correctly woohoo. Thanks for all the help everyone. Next will be diving into the shift lever. At times it’s hard to get it out of park. Brake lights work and heat it click so I figure it just be the lever.
Probably it's got a hairline crack which allows it to work, in a fashion. When it breaks, you'll be stranded.
'Preventative maintenance' never resonated so pointedly.
Thats what I figured. I’ve read their are a few different lever sizes ? So I guess I need to research more and figure out which mine is so I can get it ordered.
I believe the kit I got came with both levers in case. Not sure if they provide that anymore.
ah okay. Started the process of removing everything to see what lever I have. I’m stuck at this point lol. Have the 3 bolts and 2 screws removed. But the bugger won’t come out. I’ll have to do some research tonight at work to see how to do it without breaking stuff like I did before.
If you're going to do it all from the top, then you have to cut the cross brace. There's no other way to get it out.
You can glue it up later or just leave it - the console is plenty strong with it cut either sided.
Once cut, wiggle it up and out gently then slip off the retaining clip that holds the selector rod. Replace the clip with the new updated design upon reassembly.
If you're going to do it all from the top, then you have to cut the cross brace. There's no other way to get it out.
You can glue it up later or just leave it - the console is plenty strong with it cut either sided.
Once cut, wiggle it up and out gently then slip off the retaining clip that holds the selector rod. Replace the clip with the new updated design upon reassembly.
Outstanding thank you. I for sure don’t mind cutting the cross brace at all. I can always fab a new one from metal later. Thank you !
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