jfontana

Can someone please explain the correct procedure for bleeding brakes on these cars? What is different than the conventional way of cracking the bleeder and having someone pump the pedal? We tried that, opened the bleeder got a burst of fluid then nothing. Thank you

chassis

WIS is posted in my signature for the general MB procedure. Hopefully it comes through in the mobile version of this site.

Frederick NL

It is essential that you understand the ins and outs of SBC before you start working on it. If you PM me your personal mail adres I can send you 3 pdf's (not allowed here) about functionality and how-to's. Be forewarned that the system is under constant high pressure (you noticed).

Tom Manning

+1 on: Do your reading first before you get up close and intimate with the braking system on these cars. There are hazards. Can I ask why you're bleeding the brakes? Did you disconnect something in the hydraulic system? There is no reason for air to get in the closed system unless you did something.

If not then the go is to replace the fluid, which will also completely eliminate any air in the system. It should be changed regularly anyway.

Here's my procedure:You need a Motive power bleeder or similar design, with the euro style cap to go on the master cylinder.

• With the car off, pump the pedal 20 - 30 times to empty the accumulator
• Disconnect both battery negatives; rear first
• Choose new DOT4 fluid, (or DOT4+ if you're planning on doing track days) with a different colour to what's already there
• Syringe the fluid out of the master cylinder and discard
• Refill with new fluid
• Attach a clear tube to one of the bleeders at the the rear, then crack the bleeder
• Put 10 - 15 psi into the power bleeder and watch until the fluid changes colour in the clear line
• Repeat for the other rear wheel, then the fronts
• Do not let the reservoir run low at any stage!
• Top up the master reservoir and put the cap back on.
• When you start the car next, you'll hear the pump run, charging up the accumulator.

jfontana

Thanks to all who responded. This is above my pay grade and will safely defer to the local MB specialist.

chassis

Updating from desktop with the DIY in my signature.

Brake fluid replacement, aka bleeding the brakes, is specified by MB every 2 years.

Tom Manning

I wonder how much fluid replacement is overdone though.

My fluid was previously last changed in 2015; I tested it recently at 2.5% water content. 4% water is the maximum recommended.

I changed it anyway.

chassis

It's a German car thing. BMW and Porsche specify 2 year fluid change. Think about the Autobahn and how important brakes are. Think about well-known automotive test drive routes, for example the Großglockner Bergstraße in Austria where boiled brake fluid would be less than desirable.

It's a mindset difference between German carmakers on the one hand and Japanese and American carmakers on the other.

drlc01

I remember driving through the Swiss Alps with boiled brake fluid and can confirm "Chassis" understatement of being less than desirable..... Since those very scary moments I change brake fluid at least every 2 years, it is an easy job and a great piece of mind....

KTT-SL550

Does anyone know if there is a way to upgrade the brakes caliber to a big red color like the sl55 amg or red brembo ones? The red color looks so much nicer. Is there a plug and play kit? Ty!