SL/R230: Coilover Choice




They are fairly well reviewed between Cieka, BC and Silver. Silver seems to have the better hat and fittings but the BC is a quality shock I've used on a Corvette so they all have positives.
Any personal use you feel like sharing would be welcomed
Thanks Have a great day
The only 2 budget friendly coilovers which ship stock at these values are the Silvers & E-Motions (Sold through Amazon).
The BC Racings ship stock @ 18k Front & 16k Rear. The Celia's ship stock @;16k Front & 10k rear.
Since the overwhelming majority of budget friendly coilovers are manufactured in Taiwan using Japanese oils,. The only real differences are the springs, seals, and top hats.
I'm sure I would have also been happy with the Silvers, (And the Gecko Racings which allow choice of spring rate) but settled on the E-Motions due to the peace of mind provided by purchasing through Amazon.
Upon unboxing, I knew I'd made the correct choice. They are a solid, high quality unit which installed with eas and have performed flawlessly.
It took exactly 10 days for them to be manufactured in Taiwan, and 2 days after receiving a DHL tracking number, they were delivered to my door in Seattle just before 11am. Installation was a breeze. Removing the carpet in the trunk was actually the most time consuming part of the process.
Last edited by Aussiesuede; Apr 17, 2023 at 07:36 PM.
They are fairly well reviewed between Cieka, BC and Silver. Silver seems to have the better hat and fittings but the BC is a quality shock I've used on a Corvette so they all have positives.
Any personal use you feel like sharing would be welcomed
Thanks Have a great day
There's a guy on youtube named gold element autoworks with a number of videos installing and reviewing the neomax silver. He's had nothing but positive things to say. I'm seriously contemplating on getting them installed when my next expensive ABC issue comes around.
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There’s so much to unpack I’m not sure why I would.
After 9 years of repairs my car has schatt the bed. I wind up paying a MB mechanic and a highly respected professional indy tell me the entire system is not functioning as per design and cost would likely be as much as the car. All that over priced tech has left me with an unusable vehicle which I am responsibly effecting legitimate repairs that will make the car valuable and have lasting driveable benefits.
Removing a tired, damaged, dangerous suspension and replacing it with VVK sway bars and Coilovers will make this SL500 go from a garage ***** to a long haul Euro miler in style and performance again.
It just won’t throw codes, leak hydraulic fluid and look like an LA low rider while being a danger to drive anywhere.




RMT / Arnott no longer buy back hydraulic R230 struts so anyone who buys rebuilds will almost pay as much as for new ones




I do not remember ever seeing that before on this forum. I am not trying to belittle CDK. I don't want other people to start doing it.
Thank you,
Recirculate/loopback the existing ABC hose system so that the pump output feeds directly back into the ABC reservoir, bypassing/disconnecting the rest of the system.
-or-
Remove the tandem ABC/PS pump and replace it with a PS-only pump.
If you run the tandem ABC/PS pump dry on the ABC side, it will seize up within a few hundred miles and you will lose power steering.
Recirculate/loopback is the easiest and cheapest thing to do. If the tandem pump fails sometime in the future, swap over to the cheaper PS-only pump.
Last edited by brucewane; Apr 19, 2023 at 03:59 PM.
Recirculate/loopback the existing ABC hose system so that the pump output feeds directly back into the ABC reservoir, bypassing/disconnecting the rest of the system.
-or-
Remove the tandem ABC/PS pump and replace it with a PS-only pump.
If you run the tandem ABC/PS pump dry on the ABC side, it will seize up within a few hundred miles and you will lose power steering.
Recirculate/loopback is the easiest and cheapest thing to do. If the tandem pump fails sometime in the future, swap over to the cheaper PS-only pump.




I do not remember ever seeing that before on this forum. I am not trying to belittle CDK. I don't want other people to start doing it.
Thank you,
Cheers
Last edited by Hary Gahtoe; Apr 19, 2023 at 09:19 PM.
Recirculate/loopback the existing ABC hose system so that the pump output feeds directly back into the ABC reservoir, bypassing/disconnecting the rest of the system.
-or-
Remove the tandem ABC/PS pump and replace it with a PS-only pump.
If you run the tandem ABC/PS pump dry on the ABC side, it will seize up within a few hundred miles and you will lose power steering.
Recirculate/loopback is the easiest and cheapest thing to do. If the tandem pump fails sometime in the future, swap over to the cheaper PS-only pump.




Last edited by Hary Gahtoe; Apr 19, 2023 at 08:48 PM.
Thoughts?




The ABC suspenison that Mercedes made is so far from quality as possible. The ABC suspension is practicly the same as the ones used on the old Citroen CX
The only difference is that except that on the Citroen CX there are not any problems wit the hydraulic suspension.
Also many here seems to think that the ABC suspension is a "performance" thing from Mercedes but it is far from that.
If it was "performance thing" then i wonder why Mercedes did not put the ABC system on the SL Black Edition Series? But the Black Edition Series have coilovers....
I guess most here knows that performance cars use/have coilovers and having said that i think that at least the supercharged Mercedes SL55 AMG R230 should have come with coilovers as standard from Mercedes.
Even some Mercedes mechanics i know think the ABC suspension is some poor stuff that never should have been put on any Mercedes..
Last edited by TheSaint; Apr 20, 2023 at 09:49 AM.
Also, since the pump is always driven, there has to be some circulation of fluid or the pump will overheat. So I would guess/hope that MB engineers would have designed the system so that it will still have circulation in failure mode.
So... you could try it. Worst things that could happen are fluid leaking past valve blocks and out of the open connectors at each strut, or pump failure due to lack of circulation/overheating. And in both cases the remedy is to go ahead and convert to a non-ABC power steering pump. Not really a lot of downside to giving it a try.
In my case, my pump was leaking from the front so the only choice was to try running it dry or to go ahead and replace it. I'd read a few reports of people running it dry, but only saying that it didn't immediately die; no long-term reports of running the pump dry for thousands of miles. So, nothing really to lose, I gave it a try. It lasted about 300 miles. It didn't fail catastrophically, didn't even make any noise, I just started to feel the steering wheel intermittently drag/lose power assist as the pump became harder and harder to turn.




