SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Front Lower Spring Control Arm Bushing

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Old Jun 30, 2023 | 04:13 PM
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2007 SL550
Front Lower Spring Control Arm Bushing

Hi folks,

I am replace the front control lower control arm bushings (the sprint control arm) on my 2007 SL550.
Here is a picture of the original one from the car.

original bushing front lower sprint control arm


And here is the one I got from FCP Euro.

Lemforder 2203309107


As you can see it comes with two giant washers that seems to go inside the bracket. The original configuration did not have these washers and also looked a bit different. I have double checked with FCP Euro with car's VIN and they have confirmed that the new part is correct fit. They also send me this catalog



I was wondering if I should add these washers or avoid them? Does anyone else have the same experience?
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Old Jun 30, 2023 | 06:16 PM
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Gene Fiorot's Avatar
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You will find that you will need a MB special tool to press that bushing in that arm. Buy a new control arm easy peasy.
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Old Jun 30, 2023 | 06:34 PM
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2007 SL550
Originally Posted by Gene Fiorot
You will find that you will need a MB special tool to press that bushing in that arm. Buy a new control arm easy peasy.
yeah, I have the sleeves and already replaced the bushings! Not an easy job without the sleeves!
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Old Jul 1, 2023 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by enesf
yeah, I have the sleeves and already replaced the bushings! Not an easy job without the sleeves!
I'll share my experience with installing new lower control arms. My new controls arms came with the washers you indicated and when I uninstalled the passenger side arm there were no washers present, but when I removed the driver side control arm the 2 washers were present. I made the assumption that previous work had been done on the passenger side and the washers were simply not reinstalled. I could be wrong with that assumption, but it made sense because when I was weighing whether or not to just purchase the bushings and sleeve to press them in vs a complete assembly some of the bushings were sold without washers whereas others were not. My next assumption was that the original washers were intended to be reused but if someone was just doing one side and no washer was present upon removal, the installer would be none the wiser that the washers were supposed to be there? Again, these were my assumptions, but since there was sufficient clearance to fit the arm with washers my thought was that that would be the more optimal installation. Wait for one of our resident techs to confirm, but it just seems to make sense to include the washers when one considers the exceedingly close tolerances of our suspensions. I liberally applied grease to both sides of the washer and the control arms have been trouble free for about 70,000 miles. I removed both arms after 50,000 miles and regreased and was pleasantly surprised to find the bushings on both sides were still like new, which is a feat considering how hard our vehicles are on bushings. So I'm a firm vote for including the washers.
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Old Jul 3, 2023 | 02:41 PM
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Pretty sure to remove that arm you will remove the other end from the joint labeled #10. Did you have any issues separating that joint. I have to replace that #10 and planning the best route!
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Old Jul 3, 2023 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Aussiesuede
I'll share my experience with installing new lower control arms. My new controls arms came with the washers you indicated and when I uninstalled the passenger side arm there were no washers present, but when I removed the driver side control arm the 2 washers were present. I made the assumption that previous work had been done on the passenger side and the washers were simply not reinstalled. I could be wrong with that assumption, but it made sense because when I was weighing whether or not to just purchase the bushings and sleeve to press them in vs a complete assembly some of the bushings were sold without washers whereas others were not. My next assumption was that the original washers were intended to be reused but if someone was just doing one side and no washer was present upon removal, the installer would be none the wiser that the washers were supposed to be there? Again, these were my assumptions, but since there was sufficient clearance to fit the arm with washers my thought was that that would be the more optimal installation. Wait for one of our resident techs to confirm, but it just seems to make sense to include the washers when one considers the exceedingly close tolerances of our suspensions. I liberally applied grease to both sides of the washer and the control arms have been trouble free for about 70,000 miles. I removed both arms after 50,000 miles and regreased and was pleasantly surprised to find the bushings on both sides were still like new, which is a feat considering how hard our vehicles are on bushings. So I'm a firm vote for including the washers.
The washers were a 'fix', presumably to provide protection in case the bushing slips within the control arm. There is some info in WIS advising to install the washers regardless of if they were there originally.
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Old Jul 3, 2023 | 06:20 PM
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'03 SL55 Black, '03 SL500's Aegean, Mars Red, Tazanite, Alabaster, '11 S550 Flint Gray
Originally Posted by elMacko
Pretty sure to remove that arm you will remove the other end from the joint labeled #10. Did you have any issues separating that joint. I have to replace that #10 and planning the best route!
Just a normal ball joint separator tool works fine. Crank up some pressure and then tap the end that sits on the joint. You also need a W215/W220/R230 specific ball joint tool to press the joint out and the new one back in. Even large ball joint press kits will not have adapters that work for these platforms.
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