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If you have Facebook search for a video by Brian Wallace. It's showing how to remove the shifter from inside the car using a method I devised. This group won't allow Facebook links.
If you have Facebook search for a video by Brian Wallace. It's showing how to remove the shifter from inside the car using a method I devised. This group won't allow Facebook links.
I've left it in neutral as I managed to get it out if park but not risking putting back in park in case it gets completely stuck and I have an aluminium replacement part waiting many thanks for your help just need the video couldn't find it
It's not too hard - slip off the side cheeks on the console, remove the various torx screws on the side then lift off the wood trim on the console. Shifter needs to be in D to lift (off and out backwards) the wood trim. Disconnect all the plugs then undo the shifter bolts. Cut the brace across the console. I found this where you can see clearly where he cut the brace.
I drilled two 1/4" holes in the console cross brace to gain access to the two rear shifter bolts, rather than cutting the brace completely out. WIS says to use a ball-end hex key to access these bolts, but I found the angle too steep. I know many have cut the cross brace out entirely with no ill effects, but I prefer to leave as much structure in place a s possible. It's a little finicky to slide the shifter out with the cross brace intact, but it's not really a big deal.
Regarding the retainer clip, I don't know that the two styles are interchangable. EPC shows both 000-994-41-60 (the "new" style) and 000-994-43-60 (the "old" style) and both part numbers are still available - the so-called "new" clip does not supercede the "old" clip in EPC. So I think there was a design change at some point in the linkage rod itself as well. Since both part numbers were available I ordered both to have all possibilities covered once I got into the repair. On my car 000-994-41-60 would only work on the transmission end of the linkage. The shifter end of the linkage on my car has a ~5mm tapered nose that enables the linkage end to be pushed through 000-994-43-60 and this nose prevents 000-994-41-60 from being able to engage in the linkage slot. Given my experience and the low price of these clips I'd advise to buy both part numbers and use 000-994-41-60 if you can, otherwise use a fresh new 000-994-43-60.
The two clips install differently -
000-994-41-60 = installl linkage rod into lever first, then slide clip over the end of the linkage.rod
000-994-43-60 = install the clip first, then push the linkage rod through the lever/clip until the clip locks into the slot in the linkage rod.
Also - You might want to also order two of part #210-992-00-10 - this is a bushing for the ends of shift linkage, on my car they were completely gone such that the linkage was flopping around very loose. Replacing this on the transmission end was tough and took some persistance/patience - it's a bit up the side of the transmission with limited clearance to the body so you have to have to do it mostly by feel. But I don't have particularly small hands, so it is do-able. As I recall I used one hand to push/hold the top of the bushing into the lever hole, then wedged the bottom of the bushing in using a long flat head screwdriver in my other hand. Just be careful about having the screwdriver slip and stab the finger that's holding to bushing in place.
Last edited by brucewane; Jul 23, 2023 at 12:58 PM.
These videos show a little more of the shifter disassembly. There's a few torx head screws and a couple of pop rivets that need to drilled out (the first video doesn't show this, the second one does).I bough a pop rivet gun from Harbor Freight (item #38353) for reassembly. The rivets that came with the gun looked like they'd be too short for this application, so i also bought an assortment of 1/8" rivets (item #67669). You could probably use sheet metal screws in place of the pop rivets, but I was concerned with the possibility of a metal shaving getting loose and causing issues in the shifter mechanism so I chose to go back together with pop rivets (also since the gun and rivets are dirt cheap, and it's handy to have a pop rivet tool on hand for other things.- more tools is always a good thing ).
Forgot to mention - I disconnected the shifter linkage from underneath the car. Hardest part of that is getting the car up on jack stands. Once that's done, there's a couple of brackets that need to come off, then you loosen a heat shield and slide it back out of the way (no need to completely remove).
If you are going to do this entirely from the top, you'll probably have to cut the console cross brace completely out in order to lift the shifter up and gain access to the linkage and realease the retainer clip.
I did this job as a preventive measure, mine had not failed, so i had no issue getting the car in the garage to be put up on jack stands, and I was doing a few other jobs that needed the car up off the ground.
Gentlemen, I have been reading about this subject for a while and preparing myself for when this unforeseeable clip breakage let me stranded.
Perhaps my car may have had this already happened and since I got no history...it may have already the fix.>! If not, how can this "plastic clip" could be seen without too much disassembly?
While been able to move the shifter what would be the most straight forward way to remedy this potential accidental nightmare? Is there any year model when the germans decided to go metal? Mine is a 03-04 SL500.!
The plastic pawl makes a soft click which you can hear with your ear to the shifter.
The new milled alu pieces make a very audible and quite loud, satisfying metallic click when you apply the brake. It's really clear. Was the design ever improved? AFAIK the alu pieces are all after market.
On the clips that hold the rod to the shifter, the new one really is a far superior design; you can tell by looking at it.
The plastic pawl makes a soft click which you can hear with your ear to the shifter.
The new milled alu pieces make a very audible and quite loud, satisfying metallic click when you apply the brake. It's really clear. Was the design ever improved? AFAIK the alu pieces are all after market.
On the clips that hold the rod to the shifter, the new one really is a far superior design; you can tell by looking at it.
On my car, the "new" clip would only work on the transmission end of the shift linkage rod. It would not work on the shift lever end. I would advise anyone doing this job to order both 000-994-41-60 and 000-994-43-60 so that you will be sure to have on hand a new clip that will work on your car.
Gentlemen, I have been reading about this subject for a while and preparing myself for when this unforeseeable clip breakage let me stranded.
Perhaps my car may have had this already happened and since I got no history...it may have already the fix.>! If not, how can this "plastic clip" could be seen without too much disassembly?
While been able to move the shifter what would be the most straight forward way to remedy this potential accidental nightmare? Is there any year model when the germans decided to go metal? Mine is a 03-04 SL500.!
Afternoon,
I'm currently experiencing this on my car. It has gotten progressively worse to the point I'm not driving much right now.
It started off a being a little harder to shift to now me needing to use considerable and strong force to shift it from P to D.
I replaced the brake switch to no avail. My options are now to remove the shifter and get rid of the piece all together or replace to an aftermarket aluminum piece.
Also think the replacement shifter is 400-500$ but for what? a 30 cent plastic part? No Thanks!
On my car, the "new" clip would only work on the transmission end of the shift linkage rod
Odd, both fitted on mine. New one 000-994-41-60. Once you have had the old one off and on a few times it gets tired and loses its hysteresis. The rod fell off the shifter, thankfully in the car park out the front of my office. For a few dollars it's definitely worth replacing.
I'm currently experiencing this on my car. It has gotten progressively worse to the point I'm not driving much right now. It started off a being a little harder to shift to now me needing to use considerable and strong force to shift it from P to D.
Classic sign of the pawl cracking before it breaks. That's how they fail. Once you have it out and under a mag light you should see where the crack starts.
Good news gentleman I got this repaired and resolved.
I want to thank Victor from Restore your Mercedes, what a class act. He was able to tackle the whole job from the top without going under the car to disconnect the linkage and without cutting or modifying the cross bar! What a master technician. He was thorough and meticulous with the car as if it were his own. We took no shortcuts and did everything by the book leaving nothing to chance. Including re-adding rivets to the shifter, increasing the width of the aluminum shiftier slot as well because it wasn't an exact match in diameter(probably a micron to snug). He was able to complete this in 4 hours and I was on my way. Silky smooth shifting now and no clink that I have read about. I couldn't be more happier and can drive the car again with peace of mind. In addition to that my plastic piece was on it's last leg, it has a micro crack and 2 hairline cracks on the backside...it was only a matter of time before I got stranded. I can't thank him enough because my alternatives were not looking pretty, i.e new shifter, dealer etc.
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