Since I'm purchasing a 2007 SL-550, how concerned should I be about the system?

Thank you.

 

That and the roof hydraulics are going to give you the most amount of issues.

 

Ive had my 2005 SL500 for 18 months, never had an issue with my roof or ABC system. Most problems I have had have been a headlight bulb, auxiliary water pump, slightly perished rear donut, and a headlight washer.

I now note a tiny oil leak from the sump plug, as it has the wrong copper washer. Cars nothing but trouble :-)

You only hear of problems on forums like this.

 

Maybe you should own it for more than 18 months to make that call. The front end components will wear out aroind 70,000 miles, motor mounts probably around or before then, ABC pumps that haven’t had fluid changes usually last 60 to 70 thousand miles. My valve blocks started leaking at 52,000 miles. Crank position sensor left me stranded at 55,000 miles. Shifter pawl at 45,000 miles.

Top components are dependent on storage and temperature, but the flaps on my early car were worn out at 40,000 miles, and top cylinder lasted 13 years.

 

Well let's hope and pray against the odds.

 

Yank, please sleep well you are ok with 2007 because it has upgraded ABC components that are seemingly more reliable than earlier models, components including Valve blocks and dampeners and pump. Called ABC2. When I bought my 2007 4 years ago and 26k miles, I chose to flush and filter change the ABC system as preventative maintenance. 36k miles now, and last week I checked the fluid, near pristine green which is the way you want it. There are many posts on DIY methods to change, so if you are a diy don’t be afraid, otherwise Indy shop can do it.

 

MBCO, thank you for that info. I'm still in search of a good mechanic out here in LA.

 

Spend the extra money and get a 55

Its the same maintenance.

 

Only reporting my experience!

 

As I am. Mine was just about 15,000 miles over 8 years. They were earlier cars, but I understand the 550 may have other issues besides these.

 

not really, inetercooler pumps , and supercharger bearings as well as pulleys had been changed on mine at 50,000 miles or so. Brakes and rotors are more expensive as well, and I believe the fuel pressure regulator is different. Most of the rest of the car is the same

 

To DAS. Yeah, I was looking at both. I pulled the trigger on a 07 55 AMG just to have the owner of the dealership override everything the sales guy told me. So I told the owner I would agree to his terms if he drops the price by 3k. As far as I know, the car is STILL for sale.

 

MBCO,
What was the cost of flush out and filter change the ABC system?

 

You can do it your self for less than $250

 

Thank you.

 

Don't worry about ABC in R230 - newer cars like yours are not as bad as older and when ABC fails (it eventually will) you always have an option to convert to coil overs - a simple, inexpensive and well proven conversion

 

Yep, that's what I have heard and read. Thank you.

 

OP re cost
I bought my parts from FCPEuro. I used one filter 12 liters of Pentosin to flush. Check current prices but $250.00 is a good approximation.

 

For my 2003 SL55 AMG I recently bought new brake discs and pads.
I shop online and spend some time finding the lowest prices.
Zimmermann coated rotors front cost less than $150 each and rear about $125 each, Front Brembo low-metallic pads under $100 the set and rear Brembo low metallic pads about $70.
These are all very high quality brake parts. Where is this huge expense I am reading about? Labor at my indy shop to install the fronts was about $300 and the rears, another $200. All this seems pretty reasonable to me. All new discs and pads, installed, plus complete brake fluid replacement using SDS and Dot-5 fluid, total cost about $1350.00
Almost any car's crank position sensor can fail after around 60-75k miles, that's typical. It's a Bosch part, so don't blame Mercedes. It might last 150k miles, or it may quit at 75k miles. It's a gamble, I guess. Sensor is a very cheap part.
My SL55 has 90K miles on it and all the front end components checked out as perfect condition. Must have been driven on some nice smooth highways, and also not in states where winters are bad. Mercedes engine mounts typically last 75k miles, maybe 100k miles but I wouldn't expect them to go much longer since they are fluid filled hydraulic components, consider those wear items. They are pretty cheap to replace, parts cost under $250 usually for 2 motor mounts and a trans mount, and labor with a good indy under $400 and they are good for another 75-100k miles after that. I've replaced motor and trans mounts on about 5 or 6 Benzos within a month after purchase, I consider them almost a requirement after getting a used Mercedes. Always buy good Mercedes or Bosch high quality parts, never cheap junk parts. FCPeuro is great, there are a handful of other places online for parts too. I've uses Partsgeek, mbpartscenter, autohausAZ, Pelicanparts, even amazon once in a while but there you gotta watch out for counterfeit parts. Shopping online you can pay $710 for a part or you can pay $480 for the same part or you might find the same part for $300. A lot of newer Benz use NGK spark plugs and when I know the exact part number for the plug I can get those from NGK on their own website. I don't believe in exceptions if you know the exact plug your vehicle came with! If your ABC accumulators are needing replacement, don't drive the car too much until you replace those, trust me just replace them. The car will appreciate it!

 

If you need a headlight bulb watch out for fakes out there, on Amazon or elsewhere. I spent $60 on a bulb on amazon that was "genuine Sylvania" that came in Sylvania-looking packaging, but was suspicious. They have a serial number and a website you go on to authenticate the bulb. It checked out as "authentic", they even set up their own fake website!! I found Sylvania's real 800 number and called them, they directed me to their REAL website, I returned that chineseum fake light bulb and got a certified genuine, real Sylvania light bulb and the color, intensity, brightness, etc., matches the other one on the car perfectly fine. The REAL genuine light bulb cost about $15 more then the fake one. Apparently, the market is HUGE for fake light bulbs out there!

 

I've had my '03 SL55 for 9 years now, and by far the largest aggregate maintenance expense (and headache) over that period has been repeatedly repairing the ABC system. This June, I finally pulled the trigger and had the entire system yanked out and replaced with Silvers Neomax coil overs (and no sway bars). The car rides and handles just fine, including taking corners and handling sudden stops, and I can easily adjust ride stiffness on all four wheels. And, its a few hundred pounds lighter.

I figure there will be about a 2 year payback due to zero maintenance costs, and an immediate and permanent payback in reduction in blood pressure and stress from not worrying about when and where the ABC suspension will fail next.

And as far as car value, I can't imagine how a continuously failing system of any kind can be more valuable than one that never fails.

Maybe the later model year ('07 and newer) ABC versions are more reliable, but I can testify that the early ABC implementations were abysmally flawed.

 

Congrats! Only ABC experts and totally ignorant will value ABC car higher in early SL. For everyone else in between, ABC delete is the way to go.

 

What is the cost in yanking out the ABC system entirely and replacing it with the Silvers Neomax coilovers? Also, why wouldn't you add the sway bars?

 

My 2004 SL600 never had one problem with ABC. My 2007 SL550 only had an issue when I replaced the ABC filter and didn't get the spring back on right and it burped fluid in the engine compartment but that was due to my own error. New filter again, cleanup mess, put back together right, all was fine again. My 2003 SL55 AMG needed new accumulators, those can be a consumable part, you can't expect them to last more than 20 years and not wear out. Drove with bad accumulators carrying the new ones around in the trunk, hit a big bump and pressure spike killed the high pressure hose. The one called the "car killer hose" because of the expense to replace... Dealer wanted over $9000 just to replace the hose, saying Mercedes WIS says it's a 30-hours labor.. Indy shop wanted $5000 saying the do it according to Mercedes WIS. Found an indy shop that's owned by two engineers. "Sure we can do that, cost $2000. We've done a dozen of those cars and not one has had a problem after we fixed them." For another grand they installed my new accumulators, pulsation damper and both engine mounts and trans mount. I have no fear of ABC issues, I love the R230. Maybe if you're on a shoestring budget get an earlier SL from the time before ABC. I did like the W124s and W140s before ABC and Airmatic, never any problems with those! ABC is just another car system, it's just parts, if one goes bad replace it.Or replace the whole system with coilovers, it's your choice. When ABC works right it is great.

 

How concerned? Alot. If you haven't already it's a very wise choice to have a neutral third party mechanic check the car over. You could potentially spend the same purchase value or more in repairs if multiple issues are present
Bon Chance