Beeza

Second post. I guess as a newbie, my posts need to be approved by a moderator before they are posted.

Just wondering what is causing the mechanical stop preventing me from stowing the rollover bar. I'm using the method of releasing both ratchets and pushing down on the bar. It will only go down about halfway then hits a hard stop. I've released the hydraulic valve on the pump, Even sitting on it, it won't go down any further.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Well, as a newbie, you should include your location and the year of your car. I'm also not sure brute force is recommended on these cars. However, a roll bar better be able to take more weight than you have. Clearly something is broken. Sorry I can't help.

EDIT: I see in your first post you gave your location and year of the car. Put the info in your profile so others can see it when you post something.

bbirdwell

Advanced search upper right is your friend. I found the following in about three minutes.

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...-stuck-up.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...back-down.html

Plus, how to rebuild the lock cylinder for the hard top.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ng-repair.html

Beeza

Thanks, I've edited my profile and signature now.

Still learning, but enjoying the experience. A lot of knowledgeable folks here. Hope to be able to return the favour once I get to know this car.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Well, if you are bored in semi-retirement and want a project, you've got one!

Not sure how much you want to invest, but there will be some specialized tools to help make your maintenance easier. A lift is a big help with transmission service. Otherwise, I hope you are skinny. Also, the M113 engine has two spark plugs per cylinder (16 total -- I'm also an engineer). There is a special bent wrench to help pop off the spark plug wires that make the job easier.

Beeza

Thank you!

At the moment the engine and transmission appear to be running perfectly. One of the reasons I decided to buy the car in the first place. I'm the car's third owner. The original owner bought it new in Belgium and shipped it to the Dom Rep. It has 90,000 miles on it. Mostly European motorway miles. The second owner was my friend. He's had it for about five years and didn't put very many miles on it at all. The car became a garage queen.

Now it's my turn!

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

The M113 engine is generally bulletproof. So is the transmission if maintained properly. The tranny fluid and filter should be replaced every 39,000 miles. Just do a drain and fill -- not a flush! There is a process to changing the tranny fluid. As I mentioned before, there are some sensors on the transmission conductor plate that sometimes go bad. Here in the States, a new conductor plate installed is about $1500. If you DIY, you can get the conductor plate repaired for about $400 (Circuit Board Medics).


By the way, I realize you may not have access to the online resources we have in the States, but I'll share stull for reference.

Have fun!

Beeza

Thank you, good to know. My daily driver is a 2011 Range Rover L322 Supercharged. The transmission on those is supposed to be sealed for life, but it started to give problems. I learned that these ZF transmissions are very fussy with their oil. I did a full service which includes replacing the plastic sump and filter and filling the oil (ZF Lifeguard) to the EXACT level when the oil is at the EXCAT temperature. Runs beautifully now. But a lot of people have damaged their trannies by doing it wrong.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

The same with the Mercedes 722.9 tranny. There's no pretending these are filled-for-life sealed transmissions. But you must use the specific fluid (preferably Pentosin brand) and measured at the precise operating temperature. This is where a lift becomes important. Alternatively, my Mercedes dealership here in the States allows me to provide all the parts and will do the service for labor only. You may find a shop there to do the same. You can save some money on parts if they'll do that for you. Here's a link for what you will need.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...em-7229erlysk1

Yours should use ATF-134 (versus ATF-134FE). Again, lots of discussions if you search.

cdk4219

If it’s a 2003 it’s probably a 722.6 not a 722..9 . The early cars didn’t have the 722.9,

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

That’s right! The 7-speed wasn’t until 2004. The 5-speed is actually easier to deal with.

Beeza

I have removed the right side rollover bar actuator. It has a hydraulic lock. Even turning the bypass screw on the pump, it will not compress. Further investigation required.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

I can't remember, but are you able to put the top up with the roll bar in place?

Beeza

I can move the roof manually. I it will go up or down with the rollover bar up. With the hydraulic valve on the pump in bypass it allows me to move the roof, but for some reason the rollover bar actuator has a hydraulic lock. At the moment the roof pump motor is not working. I'm currently tackling the PSE pump at the moment as the pump motor is open circuit. New motor on order.

aegea

If it is the hydraulic roof pump that is not working, u cannot use the top up center console button to move the hydraulic cylinder rod. The rollbar cylinder is on the right support element assembly. There is a spring on the left support element.

With hydraulic pressure from a working pump, using the center console button, u can move the hydraulic cylinder rod up to automatically connect to the solenoid attached to the rollbar. The connector is springy, and snaps onto the top of the hydraulic cylinder rod. Then using the center console button, lower the rollbar.

MikeJ65

The roll bar cylinder is not affected by the bypass. The rod side (line 100) is always under pressure. It gets pressurized anytime the pump runs and has a check valve and pressure relief valve that hold pressure. The piston side (line 60) is open to drain unless the bar is being raised. If the lock pawls are released, you should be able to compress the cylinder.

2007mustang

Try disconnecting the battery and then reconnect it. I had an issue where the dealer TOTALLY screwed up while trying to "talk" with the rear SAM unit and it left me with numerous issues including the roll over bar not working as it was before. Unconnecting the rear battery for 2 minutes fixed all the problems the dealer "made" You may have to do it a second time but afterwards it has never acted up again in the 3 years since.

Beeza

Time to give an update. I have finally been able to reset the rollover bar. It turned out that the two hydraulic lines (100 and 60) at the pump had been crossed connected causing a hydraulic lock. Once I had swapped them over, I was able to compress the cylinder and stow the rollover bar.

Beeza

I did struggle reading the identifying marks on the hoses. In the end I used the magnifying function on my iPhone. Worked really well. My old eyes aren't what they used to be!