Beeza

Hello all,

My first post didn't show up for some reason. Just want to introduce myself. I am new to R230 ownership. I've taken on a bit of a basket-case from a friend of mine. I'm a semi-retired aircraft engineer living as a Brit expat in the Dominican Republic. A self confessed petrol head. My previous project here in the DR was a very rare Porsche 968 cabriolet. That has now found a new home and I've decided to rescue my friends 2003 SL500 after he threw in the towel. After being in the hands of several Dominican mechanics I have taken on the challenge.

The initial problem was that the roof would not work. The rear deck would not go down to complete the process in either opening or closing. So that's my first challenge.

I did buy a knock off Xentry system off Aliexpress, but I have now found out that I need the multiplexer to work on these earlier cars. Aliexpress have the C4 connect for around $350-$400. Is that the best place? I do have the iCarsoft MBII as a basic scanner for now.

Once the roof is fixed I will then tackle the central locking. I think the rotor in the PSE pump is broken. The pump makes a clicking noise, but does't run. It hasn't blown the fuse though.
Then I plan to do an ABC delete / coilover conversion.

Wish me luck

PS, I did start another thread about rollover bar as I wasn't sure my posting privileges are set yet.

Beeza

Beeza

Now I get it. I tried uploading a photo of the car. I got a message saying that it needs to be approved by a moderator before it can be posted. Understandable considering I'm a newbie here.

Tom Manning

Where is the roof now? Any messages on the dash? Fluid level in the tank in the boot should be between the arrows, check for leaks.

The hand held scanners will do 90% of what you are likely to need. All the common issues have been covered here and on Benzworld in depth.

If the boot isn't closed all the way (soft close as operated by the PSE pump) then the roof won't work. You can force-close it by hand.

Basic checks first - rear battery might be toast. Check all fuses as a matter of course in all three fuseboxes.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

There is a thread in the Tech Talk forum discussing hand-held scanners. The iCarsoft MB II is mediocre and the is preferred. V3.0 is only a few bucks more and does automatic scanning and is a bit faster. I own both. However, if you are going to be rescuing a R230, the iCarsoft may not be enough. The scanner may be needed. It is a shop-level scanner and a bit more expensive (~$650 USD). The Autel is multi-brand and can do limited programming. More importantly, you'll want a scanner that can operate the ABC system and the SBC brakes. The brake system MUST be disabled before working on the brakes at all as there is a risk of severe injury if you don't.

Alternatively, I have also purchased the recently and am liking it as much, if not more, than the iCarsoft. It has some nice features, such as updating over WiFi, emailing scanning reports, and adding other brands of cars. However, it does require getting used to if you are already familiar with the iCarsoft interface.

Scanner discussion, but there's more if you search: https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ggestions.html

Lastly, good luck with the R230. It's an amazing car even today, but does become a pain-in-the-*** as it ages. Common problem areas are the roof/trunk, trunk closure, ABC suspension, SBC brakes (there is a 25-year extended warranty), transmission conductor plate controllers, gas pedal, and gas tank baffle. Have fun!

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and there may be a problem with 2003 and earlier models with the radiator and transmission cooler. They are integrated into a single unit with separate compartments, but have been known to leak into each other as they age. Not good for the tranny.

Beeza

Hi, thanks for the reply.
The roof is now down. I manually opened it to try to reset the rollover bar. It's stuck up and I can't reset it manually. After releasing both ratchets it won't go all the way down. Something mechanical is preventing it. I thought it was a hydraulic lock, but I've turned the relief valve on the pump, and still won't go more than halfway down. I'm waiting for T60 Torx wrench to remove the actuators to see what's going on.

I've replaced both batteries as a matter of course as I know that these cars are power hungry.

The message on the dash at the moment is "operation in progress". But the pump is not running.

The boot doesn't soft close. I have to slam it down and use the metal key to open it.

Should I prioritise the PSE before tackling the roof?

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

There is a common problem with the actuator in the trunk latch. It is vacuum operated and will crack and leak with age.


Another problem I had was moving the shift lever out of Park. The temporary solution it to brute force it. Check YouTube. There is a plastic internal part that is intended to lock the lever in place until you apply the brakes. It breaks. There are aftermarket aluminum pieces that you can replace it with, but I just removed the broken piece. Not sure if the car would pass inspection since you can move the lever without applying the brakes.

Here are some other documents I collected when I had my SL500.

Tom Manning

Should I prioritise the PSE before tackling the roof?

Yes, in a word. If you keep slamming the boot you'll damage the third brake light. Is the PSE pump toast or just timed out? Pull yellow 20A fuse (fourth fuse along) in the fusebox behind the RHS seat to reset the pump. When the boot lock starts to leak the pump will time out and need to be reset. If it works again after reset you've got a leak - probably the boot lock. Common failure.

Is there fluid in the roof pump reservoir?

Beeza

The PSE pump is trying to work. I can hear it clicking when it wants to operate. Next step is disassembly and see if the rotor is broken, I hear that is a known fault.

The roof pump is not operating at all at the moment. I need to investigate why. There is sufficient fluid in the reservoir. It has had several cylinders replaced lately. The first one to go was centre windscreen latch. Then the tubular frame lock, then the side unlock cylinders (x2) and finally rollover bar cylinder. They were all leaking. As I previously stated, I need to find out what diag work has been done by the previous mechanics who have been unsuccessful in fixing the roof.

I'll take your advice and get the central locking working first. I have totally stripped the interior and boot linings to see what's going on.

This is quite a project. The car is a total basket case right now. I believe it's worth saving but it's going to take time......

Tom Manning

• Basics first - check all the fuses (probably you have).
• Any messages on the dash?
• Charge up both batteries and run a full scan with a good hand-held scanner such as the Launch Creader if you can't get your SDS working. That will probably be adequate.
• Run your scan, clear out all the codes and see what comes back.
• Any corrosion or wetness in the roof pump area? The rear windscreen seal leaks and the boot can flood, damaging the pump.
• Good colour - haven't seen it around before!

Stay in touch...

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

...and money!

Frederick NL

With a defective pse pump the roof won't operate, so between the two pumps in the trunk that is your first concern.

Tom Manning

Is that right that the roof won't work with a defective PSE pump? Not counting of course that the boot has to be locked down all the way, but this can be pushed home hard by hand, even with a defective PSE pump.

Beeza

My roof pump is not running at the moment, neither is the PSE pump. I'm waiting for a new motor for the PSE pump so I can continue the trouble shooting process. First I want to eliminate the central locking / soft close issue. I also have a stuck rollover bar in the up position.

Frederick NL

For a reason not known to me, the signal
'luggage divider closed' is transmitted to can via the pse pump wire harness.

Tom Manning

Ah right. The roof still should operate though, even if the PSE pump itself is defective.

MikeJ65

A bad pump that results in a blown fuse will eliminate power to the PSE module and it will not be able to read the partition switch and send a CAN message. The same with a water logged PSE. Not sure of the logic in putting the switch on the right side where you have a short path the the RVC module and then routing it instead to the least reliable module in the vehicle (on the left side), but that's what they did.

Tom Manning

Ah, right.

OP mentioned that the fuse was not blown and the pump was clicking so that may not be the reason their roof isn't working. They've probably got a corrosion mess in the boot well - that car looks like it's had a hard life.