I am the current owner of what I believe used to be member @SpiritR230 ’s SL55.

His old FS thread could be found here.

Unfortunately, previous owner(s) between me and him heavily abused and neglected this once glorious beast.

45k miles later, destroyed front bumper, missing side vents, pouring coolant, torn seats, bent and cracked aftermarket rims, almost no electronic functions, loss of power, every single light in the dash is lit up, ESP, ABS, ABC, SRS, (over 15 malfunctions) and over 20+ codes coming up from my Autel scanner.

I am no stranger to MBs or 55 AMGs. I love this spec so much. Still not sure at the approach I am going to take upon restoring it. May my wife forgive me for taking on this money-pit.

 

ME

P20B7-8

Increased idle speed owing to low voltage in Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC): Check the current and voltage on vehicle. / No control module defectiv (P1999)



ESP

C14FC

This fault can be disregarded and cleared. If the voltage is temporarily too low, the fault may be stored



SRS

9024

The component or the signal wire to the component B48 (Front passenger seat occupied recognition i Automatic Child Seat Recognition (ACSR/AKSE))

Faulty or short circuit.



902D

The component or the signal wire to the component B48 (Front passenger seat occupied recognition

Automatic Child Seat Recognition (ACSR/AKSE))

Open circuit.



9183

The resistance in the ignition circuit containing component 'R12/1 (Driver Emergency Tensioning Retractor (ETR/GUS) ignition squib) is too high.



9022

Fault in communication with the component 'B48

(Front passenger seat occupied recognition and Automatic Child Seat Recognition (ACSR/AKSE))' wire fault exists.



9003

The supply voltage of the control module is too low





ICM

B1121

Fault in CAN communication with the control module ‘COMAND' or 'Audio.



SBC

C249C

Check the wire Stop lamp to N10/11 (Passenger side

SAM (Signal Acquisition and Actuation Module)) for Voltage.



EZS

B1000-4

Control module 'N73 (Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS/ EZS) control module) is faulty.



OCP

B1888

The value of sensor 'N70b1 (Interior temperature sensor) is implausible.



Dr SAM

B1341

Fault in communication with the component H3

(Alarm signal horn)'.



Pass SAM

B1632

Component 'E5/2 (Right fog lamp) is faulty.



B1384

Signal cable 'Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) function status' has Short circuit to ground or open circuit.



B1501

The component or the signal wire to the component

E36 (Armrest storage compartment lamp)' has Short circuit to ground or Open circuit.



B1010

The supply voltage of the control module is too low.



BNS Vehicle Power Supply Control Module

B1829

Component 'Fuse for starter battery circuit' is faulty.



B1833

Component 'G1 (Vehicle electrical system battery) is faulty.



B1838

Short circuit at terminal 30 or at terminal 30a If no faults or complaints exist, the DTC can be disregarded


and more

 

So far my game plan is:

1. find and address coolant leak
2. Inspect BCM, send for repair if bad, and install fuse-mod
3. check all fuses including underneath passenger footwell
4. try to diagnose why the key doesn’t turn in the ignition (only Push-to-start works, SOMETIMES, it is getting worse)
5. install second-hand Davies Craig pump from@SICAMG (thank you)
6. source new plastic lens for headlights and replace aftermarket xenon with LED bulbs
7. try to self-PDR the driver side fender
8. replace the bumper reinforcement bar (bent in)
9. look for a deal on a 63 front bumper or try to save the one I have by using a donor section from a sl550 (maybe?)
10. repair the corner of the driver seat corner handle / seat belt hole (completely busted)
11. get quotes for front driver seat upholstery repair or replacement seat covers from L-seat
12. detail the car: ozone machine (remove the weed smell from the interior), and paint correct (soooo many spider-web scratches)

 

• Weld shut the two kompressor silencers (just for the smiles)
• thermalnator gaskets (s/c and intake manifold)
• looped fuel rail
• split cooling kit
• Cooler thermostat
• PLM XL h/e
• @SICAMG recommends a single pass setup (I’d like to look more into this)
• Smaller clutched pulley (thinking 76)
• intake spacers + a higher flowing filter
• wavetrac or p30 lsd
• one step colder plugs
• Ecu tune
• deep transmission pan
• tcu tune
• black series mounts
• conductor plate + connector
• Killer chiller (already owned, not installed)
• Car already has an x-pipe and muffler delete

 

Is the battery in trunk known to be good, if not 100% sure, have it tested. After that, I would clear all the codes and read for new ones.
What are Kompressor silencers??

 

No need for transmission pan but do put an external cooler on. Far better than deeper pan.
Also the bearing you want to replace will come with the new pulley so no need to buy an extra bearing.

 

both batteries are less than a year old from what I remembered and tested fine.

the codes I shared are the ones that came back

they are two holes inside the supercharger meant to silence the whine of the supercharger. No performance gains, just smiles per mile.

thank ​​​​​​@SICAMG for the video:

 

Shouldn’t they already have a cooler connected to them??

oh duhhh . Editing out to save further embarrassment

 

UPDATE: I will be tackling the voltage regulator this weekend and in several weeks I will be updating my BCM to Brian Wallace’s new upgraded replacement BCMs.