SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Red battery warning

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Old Jan 14, 2026 | 07:17 PM
  #26  
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@mrvedit ... The 'U' cut. Nice. That makes things much easier.

Last edited by renncoder; Jan 14, 2026 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 05:52 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 06:12 PM
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I don't see any obvious bulging capacitors. Are you just putting it back with fuses or are you considering having the capacitors replaced anyway?
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvedit
I don't see any obvious bulging capacitors. Are you just putting it back with fuses or are you considering having the capacitors replaced anyway?
At this point, I might as well replace them anyway. I see a few repair services online. Anybody have recommendations?
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 06:32 PM
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Many thanks all, for this excellent description and discussion! I'm also chasing the elusive red battery light's solution, this is very helpful.

Best,
Steve
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Old Jan 25, 2026 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by KanataSteve
Many thanks all, for this excellent description and discussion! I'm also chasing the elusive red battery light's solution, this is very helpful.

Best,
Steve
Let us know if you have specific questions. Of course, start by posting what your front and back battery voltages are, both with the engine off (for 30 min) and with the engine running.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 09:09 AM
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I’m just going to throw this out there, it might help.

On my wife’s 2023 SL 55, she kept getting the Low Battery Warning on her dash and MB app on her IPhone. I installed a Battery Tender on the 12V battery in the trunk. Apparently it keeps the 48V battery under the hood charged too, somehow. She hasn’t had any more dash or IPhone notifications.

The Battery Tender stays hooked up whenever she isn’t driving the car.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 06:05 PM
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Many thanks @Mikes62 . I just got the auxilliary battery warning 3 times last night, so I'm going to start looking there. It's only about 3.5 years old and a Mercedes part, strange that it might have failed early. Could have been damaged in the alternator/starter battery fiasco I had last winter though. Seems like (according to the Doc I linked to earlier) it runs everything except for starting the car. Makes sense that it might be driving the Power Supply Control module nuts.

Unfortunate that the Engineering menu can't show the voltage of both batteries separately.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by KanataSteve
Unfortunate that the Engineering menu can't show the voltage of both batteries separately.
If you have DAS, you can see the voltage of both batteries or hook up two multimeters where you can see them both
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by KanataSteve
Many thanks @Mikes62 . I just got the auxilliary battery warning 3 times last night, so I'm going to start looking there. It's only about 3.5 years old and a Mercedes part, strange that it might have failed early. Could have been damaged in the alternator/starter battery fiasco I had last winter though. Seems like (according to the Doc I linked to earlier) it runs everything except for starting the car. Makes sense that it might be driving the Power Supply Control module nuts.

Unfortunate that the Engineering menu can't show the voltage of both batteries separately.
If the battery totally discharges, it can be damaged.
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Old Jan 26, 2026 | 11:16 PM
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Have the dealer do a “load test” on your battery. They can tell within a few seconds if your battery is still good or not. Amazon sells load testers for about $40 for your 12V battery. They are a good thing to have in your garage and can be used for all your cars.

Like mentioned earlier, if your battery sat in a low charge condition, it could be damaged. Have it load tested and get a Battery Tender hooked up. I have 11 Battery Tenders going at all times on toys and vehicles, boat, Harley, etc.
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Old Jan 27, 2026 | 11:44 AM
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Technically a "load test" was the very old way of testing batteries - a large heating element with huge cables was attached to the battery and it basically "shorted" the battery through the heating element for hundreds of amps of current while displaying how much voltage the battery could maintain at that current.
Modern battery testers are electronic circuits which measure the internal resistance in the battery in milli-ohms which accurately indicates the condition and capacity of the battery. Good ones are now very cheap and available on Amazon.
The YouTube "Project Farm" tester gave high marks to the "ANCEL BA101 Battery Tester". It is on Amazon for $34. I have bought several for family .
Personally I prefer the "TOPDON BT100 Car Battery Tester" which is a bit more expensive at $52.

As mentioned, extended or repeated low charge conditions will permanently damage a lead-acid battery. Some say below 11.5V starts damage, some say 10.5V. AGM batteries handle low charge conditions better than traditional lead-acid which is why MB specifies it here. Still allowing an AGM to drop below 10.5V is still going to damage it. This is why many/most of us keep these cars on trickle chargers when we are not driving them at least once a week.

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Old Jan 27, 2026 | 07:22 PM
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So since I'm in the process of cracking the code of what's wrong with my car, I should keep the batteries on a tender?
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Old Jan 27, 2026 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by wireless
So since I'm in the process of cracking the code of what's wrong with my car, I should keep the batteries on a tender?
I would try it and see if your issue goes away.

Just use the alligator clips on the Tender at first. If it works, then you can attach a pigtail to the battery terminals.

My wife’s SL 55 has the 12V battery in the trunk. Thats the battery I attach the Tender to.
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