Maybe you do not know SL lineup as well as you think - White Arrow Edition comes only one way: fully loaded, but not ABC. Had ABC in R230 (still had R230 for awhile after bought R231) and IMHO R231 without ABC rides and handles at least as well as R230 with (both cars are/were on 20s with 26.8" tires).

 

Not at all how I would read my comments.

 

While I suspect some here may disagree with your assessment of how a 231 rides with 20" rims and no ABC, clearly the only 231 owner that needs to pleased with 'your 231's ride' is you!

Continue to enjoy that lovely White Arrow Edition!

 

No worries, no harm, and no foul!...

 

IMO, the 'culprit' in this wheel demise for the US is the OEM manufacturers for AMG; some are Ronal, some are Borbet; coupled with our road construction vs. that in Europe. The fact that there was a class action lawsuit against MB for wheel issues brings focus to the TUV compliance criteria under which they were authorized. Here is a link to the summary of the suit: https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2...ismissed.shtml . Having been in an industry where engineers are pushed to reduce cost, and deliver quality, I have often commented that the two are mutually exclusive. With so many wheel failures of AMG / MB wheels, as well as BMW and Audi, I can only assume (yes, I know), that what has occurred is a wheel structure that is 'on the edge' for our driving environment; hence the move to aftermarket structures for more strength for some of us. I do like the look of the AMG wheels, but more than that, I love to drive. And living in an area where there are frequent freeze / thaw cycles, the result is a highway system that is sometimes challenging. Paving in Europe is done at about 15 feet per minute, with a great amount of compaction done at the screed of the lay-down machine, producing a very dense asphalt mat. Paving in the US is done at 150 ~ 200 feet per minute with the compaction done with multiple passes with compaction equipment, and with each state having different specifications for asphalt mix, you get a more porous road surface in this country. So the resulting road in the US is more susceptible to ingress of moisture and with winter temps it freezes ( contracts ) and then thaws ( expands ), leaving us with degradation in the asphalt leading to pot holes on a more regular basis. Bottom line, I need to be more observant in my driving vision, as well as staying off of roadways that are more prone to degradation. Sorry to bore you with construction methodology, but I do believe it pertinent to the stream.

 

I am fortunate to live in MD where the roads are pretty good. Traveling north into PA or south into VA I can see a difference. Having lived in Germany for several years, I can attest that the Germans do build nice roads and they are well maintained.

 

I, of course, am interested in the TireRack wheel, and I'm beginning to believe that "1pc. Tilt Cast w/Flow Forming" makes it a better wheel than the also beautiful OEM wheel you cite (Avant Garde told me their ARM wheels employ the same "flow forming" technique). Since that MB wheel is not constructed any differently than the one I've cracked, I'm not confident dropping an inch will save me from future damage.

 

With regard to Alloy Rims that are created through a 'Casting Process' verses more expensive 'Forged' Alloy Rims - How are the different, and just why is there such a price difference?:

Any kind of alloy wheel rim created through a casting process will have more 'inconsistencies' in the metal than a forged rim. That is simply the nature of a casting process creation verses a forging. A 'casting process' infers that a molten alloy was first melted into a liquid so it could then be poured into a 'casting mold'. The shape comes from the casting mold itself, after the molten liquid alloy cools and hardens into whatever was the shape of the casting mold.

A forging, on the other hand, indicates the rim is shaped through a cutting process, (using a laser cutting tool). The rim's shape is formed by actually cutting it into the desired shape from a 'solid block' of metal alloy. The metal loses none of it's consistency in a forging process, because it is actually still a 'solid metal block', just now in a different shape.

A forged rim will be stronger than a cast rim because it contains fewer of the imperfections in the metal. These imperfections occur naturally during a casting process as the liquid cools and hardens. Any metal created through a casting process will have certain imperfections due to air bubbles and such. The result is 'strength inconsistencies' in certain areas of the shaped alloy. There will always be certain areas that are stronger and more durable than others due to the casting process. .. .

Bottom Line: A forged rim will be stronger with greater strength consistency throughout it's shape than a rim that was created from a casting process! More strength consistency throughout the shape, means more durability and more resistant to road hazard damage throughout it's shape. Of course, a forging process is a more difficult and expensive process than casting rims from a mold, so when buying a set of forged alloy wheels expect to pay considerably more than you would pay for alloy wheels created from any type of casting process. Of course ANY AND ALL ALLOY WHEELS ARE SUBJECT TO ROAD HAZARD DAMAGE and if such damage occurs to a forged wheel, it would also be more expensive to replace.....

 

bob55, I know you edited your post from the original "If those are Tire Rack Wheels, perhaps you can provide a link to that particular wheel on the Tire Rack site!" but you do realize I did include a link in that original post, no?

 

I do see it now, and thanks for pointing that out Eddieo45!...Somehow I missed seeing "These" when reading your post the first time!.... My bad!...

Thanks also for posting links whenever you can, as not everyone here is able to see pics actually posted to this forum due to browser security restrictions. (This is frequently a problem for Chrome Browser Users), however, Chrome users can view images to linked websites like Tire Rack or Alloy Wheel Direct...

BTW, I think the Tire Rack Enkei PF01 is a very nice looking wheel for the 231!

 

This really doesn't answer the donut problem, but I just read last week in google news that Michelin is going to start selling a self sealing tire,(similar to the old "Royal Seal" tires. The article stated that the tire will self- repair a 1/4" hole while driving! The problem for Michelin was designing a sealing gel that doesn't move after manufacture- upsetting the balance of the tire.
They finally got it right and are beginning to send the sealant to their factories. You will see them beginning to appear on the 2020 Ford Explorer , and then other popular sizes in approx 1 year - according to the article. I'm hoping that is is a good answer to run-flats and that it becomes available in the SL size tires. Continental has something similar called "Contiseal", but I have not seen it available.. and it might be an older technology... We'll keep a lookout for more info on Michelin's website.

 

Will my top go down? (Please forgive the pollen mess in my trunk)



EDIT: it did go down; not sure if I have that net, or what it would have changed....

 

This sounds like my best possible strategy: the 18" "tilt cast with flow forming" wheels with extra tall 26.8" OD tires. Will that be an issue with my new spare, 155/60 R18 107M?

 

25.3" temp wheel/tire is not an issue when for temporary (like getting home) use only. Big possible issues when used for extended time (I've seen people driving on a donut for days, but correct diameter donut).

However, 26.8" diameter tire, 245/45-18, will look ridiculous on 18" wheels IMHO. The reason I use 26.8" is because I always use 20" wheels on SL and want to use tires with reasonable sidewalls. Would never use 26.8" tires on 18s.

If your roads are so bad, consider using a different vehicles (like GLE or even GLC) as a primary and let SL be (what it was and still is for me) - a second (R231 down south) or a third car(R230 up north) - not a daily one. This is my opinion only and I know I'm in minority here. However, I buy (not lease) my SLs and keep them in as new condition for as long as possible (put only 4K miles on R230 since new in 11 years, but every time I drove it, if felt like I was driving a brand new car). I'm planning to keep my R231, currently massive (as compared to R230) 3K miles in 4.5 years since new, for good (the same plan was for R230, but then I matured to R231, now with SL loosing hardtop, R231 is to stay for good).

 

I'm driving on the spare now while I try to get the OEM wheel repaired. I drove about 50 miles today and I was surprised how good it felt, straight and true with no pull. Is 25.3" the OD of my OEM 19s?

If the answer to my question above - "Is 25.3" the OD of my OEM 19s?" - is yes, does 1.5" more really look that much different? It's just 3/4" bigger all around, no?

It's my summer car, and I use my winter car (old Lexus RX330) for most of my driving at the summer house on weekends, trips to the beach, around town, etc. My daily driving around suburban Boston is minimal, as I work from home and seldom need to be anywhere, but the potholes and manhole covers are everywhere up here. I often wonder who the genius engineers are that decide where all the utility access holes go on a roadway; it's as if they purposely stagger them so that right and left tires hit them alternately.

 

OEM tires are 26" front and 25.8" rear. I would buy the least expensive, narrowest 18" or 19" wheel with appropriately narrowest tire at the TireRack that fits SL and would keep it in garage. Donut really should only be used to get home then put spare full size (but narrower than stock) wheel/tire to be used until stock is fixed.

Wheel: https://www.tirerack.com/snow/Winter...50&sortValue=1

Tire: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...earDiameter=17

Total cost is around $250. Big peace of mind - priceless.

 

Links show bad wheel search, 131 tires. Assuming I follow your advice, would it fit in the trunk? Aren't all tires directional these days? I truly appreciate your knowledge, experience and advice, but given the short distances I normally drive it seems silly to have two different "spares". Full disclosure my tire guy said I should have bought a rim and tire instead of the "donut".

Cheapest TireRack wheel is this one at $227.02:

It's a one-piece low pressure cast wheel, which I can only assume is about the equivalent of the OEM 19" multi spoke wheels I have. Adding the cheapest tire, the Sumitomo HTR A/S P02 at $117.43 makes this "second spare" $344.45 (I assume you wouldn't put a TPMS sensor in it). I would say that there are three issues that bring me to the tire shop: wheel cracks/bends, tire nails/screws, and TPMS issues, and when it's the tire I usually am able to get an interior patch in one visit. Wheel or sidewall issues typically resolved following day. Yesterday I inflated the tire on my cracked wheel (it showed 0 psi on my stick gauge after sitting 5 days) and drove to tire shop where they broke it down and put the donut on. I drove the wheel to the welder to expedite the process, running some local errands while the welding got done. Back at the tire shop after about 40 miles on the donut we unfortunately found another crack, either missed by the welder or caused by him, according to the tire guy (who knows; the process of removing a tire from a wheel or putting it back on seems rough enough to crack it as well). I let tire guy take it back to welder and I'll hopefully get it back today. I can't get these OEM wheels off the car fast enough!!

 

I do not mind helping but it seems I have to do your chewing and swallowing too. All info was posted in details. I'm done with this thread.

 

Sorry to exasperate you, really. Your info has been very helpful.

 

OK I'll help out again. Maybe one has to have knowledge on how to navigate TireRack site. You do not look for wheels, but instead for winter wheel/tire package in 18" diameter. Then after selecting any 18" winter tire it will take you to next page which is wheels page. There are many Sport edition 18x8 et35 wheels under $150 listed that fit and will serve your purpose.

Page one: https://www.tirerack.com/snow/Winter...Standard+Tires

This page is what you want: https://www.tirerack.com/snow/Winter...50&sortValue=1

Just to finish this, the lightest 18x8 et35 Sport Edition wheel is under $150, cheapest non-directional 225/45-18 (no typo) tire is about $100, no TPMS, they mount and balance and shipping is included. Total is only $250 for a full size spare wheel/tire that you could cross US on without any issues. I have done this on all my cars even those that came with donut spare - changed it for appropriate full size as described above. Obviously it won't fit in the trunk of SL but you already have donut just to get home.

 

Nope. You should have a net that goes from the tonneau to part of the trunk that has the two hooks, and that is the same height as the tonneau.

 

Yes, definitely something off in those pics. First, packing material should be removed and there should be nothing else in the trunk under the tire. It should look exactly as picture in post #5 above - should be deeper and flatter situated.

 

212-400-02-02-9040

Amazon has this wheel listed for $198 but no tire is included and I am very skeptical of this seller. Buyer beware...

 

ThreeMBs:

Good work on the spare! Man, that's a tight fit. Lol. My 2015 SL550 conti run flats need replacing. I have 19" wheels and would like Michelin non run flats also with a spare.
Can you please tell me:
- did your pull down cover close so you could open your hard top
- Is that an inflatable or a fully-inflated donut...and is it an 18" or 19" wheel size
- On Ebay the item no. A2124013302 space-saver tire looks to be only for 18"- do you know of a 19" space-saver for sale (with item no.) unless would the 18" fit...?
- Can you please tell me the size/item number of your spare and where you got it

GREATLY APPRECIATED! Thanks.

 

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