I decided I wanted iPhone mirroring and a front camera, and after a largely painless install I have them working.

The unit I chose is the HD-Link, model IW04M. You can find it on amazon and ebay. Here's the install and operating manual:
https://car-solutions.com/nfs/produc...ace-Manual.pdf

Some posts for things like video-in-motion for the NTG 4.5 units in our cars omit the SL from the list of cars they fit. You'll note the above instructions do list the R231 SL, but see my comments about the dip switch settings.

I'll do this as several posts to better match pictures with text, but first, a few things:

You'll need a couple of trim tools. Some kind of plastic pry bar, and a hook tool. A set like the one pictured is what I have. The hook tool on the right is the sort of thing you will need.






I don't know how different things are for a right hand drive vehicle, so if you have one, please keep in mind that mine is left hand drive.


If you are going to install a front camera, you may want to do some wiring for it first. I was able to get a fish wire from the engine compartment down into the lower grille area, grab it with one of those flexible claw grabber thingies, and get the wiring in place without removing the front bumper. Camera is mounted top center in the lower grille. I brought the wire through the firewall next to the big clump of wires. I did have to take the under-steering-wheel panel off to get the wire across to the area under the command unit, where I simply shoved about a foot of it. Careful with that panel -- don't let the hood release cable detach or you'll have to fight it back on. Be sure to buy a camera which can be configured for a non-mirror image. Typically these have a couple wires you cut to determine mirroring and lines.

 

Console side trims are fairly easy once you know how they are done. In addition to simple snap-in connectors along the sides, the front and back have angled tabs. For the driver's side you need to first remove the steeting column upper trim piece, and then unsnap the trim ring around the steering column since it overlaps the trim panel you are removing.

The behind-seat storage box cover being open helps, at least for that side. Move the seat and seatback as far forward as possible and using a trim tool pry the trim loose, beginning half way between the seat back and the back end. Pull it from the center out away from the console, and when it's bowed out enough the back end's angled tabs will come free.

You can see what they look like, and keep in mind they are the same way at the front, just more of them. Run the seat all the way back, pry loose the rest of the side up to past the cupholders. Grab ahold, and yank the trim piece to the back (and out a bit) and it will pop loose. Reinstall starting at the front. I had to push forward fairly hard to get them fully in place.

 

The center stack trim and lower switches are next. 3 screws on each side, and then at the bottom rear (when viewed from the side) there's a plastic bracket with a hooked end. Remove it, keep track of how it was oriented, and btw it's a different size screw than the other 3 on the panel.

If you haven't got towels or padding in place to protect trim from scratches, it's time. The trick here is that the piece you just unscrewed does NOT come out by pivoting it up over the ashtray area. It won't fit. You need to loosen it, and then pry the top of it out from under the dashboard.

Once you can swing it out, disconnect 3 connectors from the lower switch panel and 3 from the ignition switch area. The two big connectors have lever-like latches, rotate them toward the body of the connector and it unplugs itself.

 

Time for the command unit to come out. Below the unit itself at each side you will see slots containing metal bars with screws at the lower ends. These are levers that both hold the unit in place and help with removal. Unscrew each screw only far enough so that the bar can move toward you. When both are loose, pull the bars/screws toward you and they will start to eject the command unit toward you. Disconnect the connector at the bottom, then remove the unit and disconnect everything. It's all color-coded so you won't have any worries about what goes where when reassembling. Note when reinstalling the unit you pull the levers toward you and latch them before sliding the command unit back in. Don't forget to reconnect the lower connector before you push it all the way in.

 

You also need to remove the screen to change its video connector. Here's where the hook tool comes in. Look in the a/c vents alongside the screen, and inside, just at the top of the vertical post with the hinges you will see a small slot. Insert the hook in the slot, turn it slightly so it has a better grip, and give a good hard pull to remove the vent. Do the other side, remove the remaining trim, and you can unscrew the screen.

 

This is interesting. How does your image look with iphone mirroring? My mirrored image was a bit fuzzy due to the fact that the mb screen has lower resolution.

 

The install guide for the wiring is pretty easy to follow. My personal preference for wiring is solder and heat shrink tubing. However, for an unknown addition like this I'm simply not prepared to cut any wires. So, I use a wire stripper to create a short gap in the insulation of the wire I'm attaching to, attach the wire, and wrap with good electrical tape. If there's ever an issue, that's when I'll pull it back apart and do it all properly.

Be sure to set the dip switches on the hd box as needed. FOR ME, THE SL SETTING OF BOTH SWITCHES 9 AND 10 ON DID NOT WORK. EITHER JUST 9 OR JUST 10 DID. I WOUND UP USING 9 ON.

I installed the box wedged just behind the plastic panel at the back of the cavity, with the LVDS board behind the screen. I dropped both the hdmi cable and an iphone cable out the side into the passenger compartment where I can connect them to an apple lightning-to-hdmi adapter.

 

 

And, just put it all back together and we're done...



Config screen



front camera, pending final alignment



Taking a picture of the screen with my iphone connected...

 

Here's a better idea of what it looks like. I haven't changed any of the image adjustments from their defaults.

 

That image quality looks great. Have you tried waze or google map?
Also, does it charge the phone when you plug-in? Thanks for the reply.

 

Well, it's like this...

I actually installed this over a week ago, meant to take pictures during the reassembly, but other priorities happened. So, with my phone in a holder stuck to the "wood" just right of the command unit and running google maps my wife and I set out last week on a little 550 mile trip to Myrtle Beach. With the phone in that location, gps location accuracy was a bit erratic. Gmaps kept thinking I was on roads alongside I4 or I95 and kept rerouting. It was a bit better when I tilted it to the left instead of the right. And, about 2/3 of the way there the iphone decided it wasn't happy at 5% charge. It had charged previously during testing, so I must have had a cable problem.

We did the rest of the trip with the iphone plugged into a 12v adapter, and the gps issues were mostly just amusing except while trying to find a relative's house in Jax on the way home.

So, taking pictures this time, I pulled things back apart. This was mostly because I decided I needed more hdmi cable in the cockpit so it could reach a phone on the dash. In the process I decided to simply not use the hd-link usb power source and stay with an adapter in the 12v power port in the passenger footwell.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. The problem with power source these days is that when using iPhone with GPS on, the battery drains faster than charging at 1 amp. I used a 2.4 amp charger and it worked like a charm. I am not aware of the erratic signal problem. I never had that even putting my phone inside the center console box. (which I believe it would have a weaker and less accurate signal)
How do you mount the phone? I tried a few methods myself. Some were considered illegal (windshield mount), and some phone holders couldn't work at all. (ventilation mounting. One sharp turn could flip the phone over)

 

I used a suction cup mount here. I don't recall any issues with gps using google maps before installing the hd-link, but I never tried to use it with the iphone sideways before. I'll be using a dash sticky-pad base and flex-neck mount in the future.

 

 

@FloridaMatt Can you provide a link to where you got your tools? Everything I see on Amazon has everything except the hooks you said were needed. Thanks.

EDIT: Never mind. As soon as I posted that I found your exact kit on Amazon for $7.