SL/R231: dash bubble
I used mink oil paste yesterday and applied it as recommended on warm leather. It immediately turned liquid and seeped deep into the pores of the leather.




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Good luck on the fix....
If so, what was the fix and the cost?












I had to glue since the bubbles were fairly large. In my case the bubbles were near an edge, so I lifted the forward edge (at the windshield) from the frame and carefully pulled the leather back at the bubble. Since the leather is loose it should pull up fairly easily. Pull it back until you feel resistance where the leather is still tightly bound. You want to lift all the loose leather. Be careful not to crease the leather at the back edge because that's hard to get out afterwards. For the bubbles near the speaker grill, remove the speaker grill first so you can get to the edges under the grill. This whole process would have been way easier if the windshield was out, but I didn't want to get into that (even though my windshield is cracked and needs to be replaced).
Let me stress that this is a difficult job, mainly because of the windshield. I had to put a large mirror on the hood of the car so I could see under the leather as I glued it. You have to be very careful with the glue, so it doesn't get on the surface of the leather.
The results turned out fairly well though not perfect and it continues to hold after a year. Some photos attached.
Driver side bubbles
Driver side after repair. The cluster hood also had a bubble at the front and that was repaired also. The leather seems to have shrunk on the hood, so I wasn't able to stretch it all the way forward to the edge of the hood. But it's not very noticeable.
Driver side after repair
Passenger side bubbles
Passenger side after repair
Passenger side after repair. Not perfect but way better.
There's foam under the leather.
Pulled back and ready for glue.
Here's the glue I used. It's rated to 150 degF. They have a version that specifically mentions leather, but it has a lower temp rating. This is contact cement. You coat both sides, let it set up a few minutes then roll the leather back in place while pulling gently on the edge to keep it taut. There's no re-positioning with this stuff, you'd have to start over.








Besides being cheaper, the “standard” MBTex dash seems to hold up better in the humid climates.
As we know, the climates subject to high humidity and heat seem to wreak havoc on those leather dash pads. Unfortunately, it’s not just MB, it’s pretty much every manufacturer that uses real leather.
I tend to use a sun shade when I park my car outside, amazing how hot it gets (I can barely hold on to it). For kicks, I measured it once with an IR Temp gun. It was 160°!
Last edited by crconsulting; Sep 5, 2024 at 07:31 PM.




If I took mine off I think I would take it to a good upholstery shop and get a quote to have them strip it and re-cover it.
BTW: my glue job is still holding! But my SL is not a daily driver so it doesn't get a lot of sun exposure.




Last edited by Bitbytr; Sep 6, 2024 at 10:19 AM.




