SL/R107: cold start valve question
Last edited by champs560; Nov 14, 2010 at 01:15 PM. Reason: posted before i was finished
From what I understand, they can't be checked - they are either good or bad, and bad can mean intermittent - which is the aggravating part. Even a good mechanic can't diagnose it unless the car stalls while he has it in the shop.
The sensor unit is basically comprised two metals and if a sensor is bad, these "layers" can separate under high heat and lose contact. The car stalls. After a short cool-down, the sensors layers make contact again and it starts. That is a real hacked explanation of what my mechanic told me.
My mechanic gave me a way to check to see if it's the crank sensor: my car will die when running - mostly at stop signs, but occasionally when driving. He gave me a gallon jug of water...no joke...and told me to pour some water down over the driver side bell housing area - right behind the driver side cylinder head) the next time the thing quits. If it re-starts right away (I usually have to wait 5 to 10 minutes or so for it to restart) then the problem is likely the crank sensor.
So, I've been driving around with this jug of water, waiting for the car to suddenly die. Naturally, it has not happened since.
I've been trying to find a good price on a rear crank sensor (I think there is a front one that is not so problematic) but so far the cheapest is $200. I don't like going the Ebay route for a used sensor because I just don't trust used items.
One of the best things I've bought so far for my 560SL is one of the tech manual CD's. Not a diagnostic tool, but at least you can idetify and locate all the parts and pieces.
Good luck.
PS: All of my ramblings aside, it could still be the cold start valve. I'd have someone check it out before investing in an new crank sensor or fuel pump relay. Sorry - I interjected my own ideas and lost sight of your initial question!
Last edited by slik560; Nov 16, 2010 at 11:48 AM. Reason: PS



