SL/R107: Best way to recenter steering wheel after wheel alignment?
My question is why so far off?
Can you get equal turns to left and right?
Did you not have steering box replacement orientated correctly?
180 is a long way off.




My first guess is you had the steering box shaft off-center by 90* when you attached it to the steering column. First fix the gross misalignment using either the steering wheel on/off method mentioned above or by pulling the steering column shaft on/off the steering box shaft to correct the misalignment. I lean towards the steering column shaft on/off the steering box shaft as I do not know how the turn signal cancelling is done on your model of car. (is it dependent upon the steering wheel or column shaft)
For fine adjustments all it takes to center the steering wheel is for one to adjust one outer tie rod end outward and the opposite tie rod end inward. Direction of rotation depends upon if the tie rod ends connect to the knuckle behind or in front of the axle as each setup requires opposite turns to bring the steering wheel into a centered position. If the tie rod ends attach in front of the axle as on my W211, and the steering wheel is canted CCW, that means when the steering wheel is straight, the driver side front is turned in and the passenger side is turned out. That means rotating the driver side tie rod end to push the front of the wheel outward (laying under car with wrench hanging on the tie rod straight down I pull the wrench towards the front of the car) and rotating the passenger side tie rod end to pull the front of the wheel inward (laying under the car with wrench hanging on the tie rod straight down I pull the wrench towards the front of the car).
If the steering wheel was off-axis CW, that means when the steering wheel is centered, the driver side front is turned out and the passenger side is turned in. On my W211 I would then rotate the tie rods by pushing the end of the wrench away from the front of the car. Steering wheel should always be centered first, locked in position, and then the toe set. Bubble levels that attach across the steering wheel are available that greatly reduce the difficulty.
Exactly equal amount of rotation on each side but will still require a final verification of the toe. As the wheel approaches center, adjustments may only be 1/8 turn each. Again, one must perform a final verification of toe.
FWIW, I perform my own alignments using strings (actually monofilament).
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7339193





