I started a project to fix this old 1982 380SL Mercedes which ran sluggishly, so I replaced many of the basics since the car has been sitting for a while. Fuel pump, filter, injectors, injector holders, and the injectors vacuum lines. I also replaced the o rings on the primary pressure regulator because my pressure previously was an erratic reading, but in spec. Additionally, I replaced the water pump but that shouldn't have to do with my issues. Importantly, I also replaced the green ignition pickup wire on my distributor cap because it was crumbling. (I made sure that the new wire was making contact). I didn't really mess with the co mixture screw much, the car was always running extremely rich so I leaned it 1/8 of a turn which helped a bit. But never touched it since. My timing is good I'd say, I have it advances a little far, but in a common range amongst enthusiasts of this car. About 10btdc instead of 5. I also did basic spark plug changes ensuring that theyre non resistor plugs. My ignition coil reads as healthy under the multimeter both input and output side. But issues really started after I drove the car from my uncle's house back to my house. It used to drive somewhat smoothly then but not perfect, ever since it came to my house, it's been shaking, spitting black smoke, and really having trouble staying alive. I cant recall how smooth it was before I moved it, it may have been similar, but it was smooth enough that I was confident to drive it home. It seemed to happen after I replaced the fuel pump and filter though. The fuel pressure drops right away after I turn the car off, so that's when I went to check the pressure regulator plunger in the fuel distributor, I found that someone had put a seal in the wrong place, so I redid it properly (I think) and it holds pressure about 30 seconds which is an improvement. Id me happy to share photos. I've identified that the WUR is not doing its job, it keeps the pressure at warm levels about 3.4 bar, but it really shouldn't make the car run this bad.it runs so bad even if I'm testing the system pressure. I have cleaned the Air idle control valve, and it still clicks when using the 9v battery. I've also replaced the distributor cap and rotor with used but better condition ones. I don't know what could be my problem. My gut is telling me fuel pressure, so I've been trying to attack that, but it's annoying because my fuel pressure testers keep leaking, and I have nowhere to drain the gas, I want to replace all of the hoses going from the gas tank to the pump and everything in that sort, and I want to ideally try to blow out the return line, but I don't think that's an issue. I am fairly confident that spark is fine because it worked a lot better after replacing the old pickup wire. So I need help. I'd be happy to chat whenever l.

 

Can ya maybe edit that post and put in some paragraphs so it is easier to read...

MAkes my eyes hurt

 

It should hold pressure for thirty minutes or longer after you shut it down. There is a check valve by the fuel pump and check your fuel pressure regulator.