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This my 6th MB, but my first “classic.” I don’t know a ton about this generation so look forward to learning. I’m curious about thoughts for an exterior paint color. While I’m not a huge fan of the 70’s green carpet, the two two dark green and maroon seats are growing on me. Exterior is white with a white hardtop and black soft top. The interior is in excellent shape - everything is as it should be with the exception of a chrome driver seat hinge cover which is easily available.
Exterior is good, no rust, but the paint has some small chips. I was thinking black or black with a very very dark hint of maroon mixed into the black paint. I don’t think the white does a great job accentuating the interior or chrome.
It’s with my Dad being garaged at the moment. Getting the fuel tank inspected as it sat for a while so thinking a tank replacement with fresh fuel and fluids is a good idea. Needs minor stuff like tires, two from mouldings reattached, and heat insulating pad which is disintegrating. Has the original Europa radio and only 44k original miles. Happy that it had power windows and AC, although absence of either wouldn’t have been a deal breaker.
would love color recommendations or any thoughts as I do refreshing while retaining the original character.
Last edited by frostsdad; Sep 16, 2024 at 07:17 PM.
Reason: Photo edit
Thanks. I’m not a fan of white unless it’s more of a pearl. And, it’s really just a project to have fun doing and enjoy what it looks like in the end. First I need to have all the mechanicals throughly reviewed - that’s the fiscal priority at the moment. Provided we are good to go there, I would just enjoy a different color. The R129 is really my preference, but this fell into my lap. Family friend divorcing and just wanted it gone. Had it not been for that and knowing they have the resources to have cared for it, I would’ve probably searched around for a different color and an R129. But, I’ve just decided it’ll be an extra and I’ll still get a R129 down the road once this one is “perfected” a bit.
Side note, we had a CLK that we loved but unfortunately my teenage daughter hydroplaned and that was done for. She was perfectly fine, the car wasn’t. We miss open air motoring.
Originally Posted by Max Blast
I’d leave it exactly the way it is and cut and buff the white. Once that pops your smashed avocado interior will start making sense.
putting $$$$ into a proper paint job on this does not make fiscal sense, unless you’re doing all the work to a high standard.
Thanks. I’m not a fan of white unless it’s more of a pearl. And, it’s really just a project to have fun doing and enjoy what it looks like in the end. First I need to have all the mechanicals throughly reviewed - that’s the fiscal priority at the moment. Provided we are good to go there, I would just enjoy a different color. The R129 is really my preference, but this fell into my lap. Family friend divorcing and just wanted it gone. Had it not been for that and knowing they have the resources to have cared for it, I would’ve probably searched around for a different color and an R129. But, I’ve just decided it’ll be an extra and I’ll still get a R129 down the road once this one is “perfected” a bit.
Side note, we had a CLK that we loved but unfortunately my teenage daughter hydroplaned and that was done for. She was perfectly fine, the car wasn’t. We miss open air motoring.
This could be a very valuable car if it is a true 350 (3.5 liter engjne). Very rare.
You should consider keeping it original, you could get a fantastic R129 for what you could likely get for this 107.
This could be a very valuable car if it is a true 350 (3.5 liter engjne). Very rare.
You should consider keeping it original, you could get a fantastic R129 for what you could likely get for this 107.
I definitely plan to keep it, kind of like a pet you are fostering and then can't give to another family. I haven't been able to research the VIN because of the age, at least i haven't found a resource to do that.. but I was told it was all original... i have the number plate from the drivers door, but it really just gives me the option codes like electric window lifts and Behr A/C..
Yes, it is definitely a 350 and is 050 Weiss. Based on these recommendations I will think twice about getting it painted.
does anyone have experience getting into the trunk when the battery has been discharged? Replaced the battery but don’t want to start before dropping the fuel tank and changing various fluids. I think the vacuum lines may be damaged - is there any solution to getting into the trunk to get to the fuel tank?
Originally Posted by ygmn
nice car, fun to drive.
As said before - just detail it and leave colors - it is what it is.
might want to confirm original color by finding tag under hood which shows original colors.
I always keep and eye for these in good shape - Jealous!
Trunk?
Thought you just push in the lock button thingy and it will pop and open - very mechanical.
what am I missing?
I can turn the key, and depress the button, but it will not open even after cleaning… it’s my understanding there is a vacuum line as part of the central locking system?
No, that lock is mechanical - failure of the central locking system will not keep it from doing its function.
It may need a little bit of helping to dislodge while you have the button depressed so some gentle tapping or leverage might do the trick.
There is no other way into the trunk on an SL that has a whole spare tire well. Those cars that don’t you might as well just reach up through the rost holes and try to get a jumper on the battery, but what good would that to open the trunk? Nothing.
Thanks Max. I’ve heard conflicting info about the central locking system so I appreciate you clearing that up. I’ll see what I can do to free the lock, I’ve heard pushing toward hard while keeping the lock pressed in will sometimes work. I’m trying to avoid the drill from under to insert something free the latch method, but may have no other option at some point. It can be filled and painted if I have to go that route.
Much appreciate the guidance and I’m glad the discharged battery (which I’ve since replaced) has nothing to do with the release and that it’s not associated with the central locking system.
Originally Posted by Max Blast
No, that lock is mechanical - failure of the central locking system will not keep it from doing its function.
It may need a little bit of helping to dislodge while you have the button depressed so some gentle tapping or leverage might do the trick.
There is no other way into the trunk on an SL that has a whole spare tire well. Those cars that don’t you might as well just reach up through the rost holes and try to get a jumper on the battery, but what good would that to open the trunk? Nothing.
Was able to finally get into the trunk- for some reason the latch piece inside that moves to the right as the lock cylinder turns is slightly
misaligned with where the button pushes. I had to pull the key and lock cylinder up and to the left. I may take off the interior panel and see if there’s any adjustment that can be made. I did remove the interior latch assembly and that’s how I could see what was occurring. However, I didn’t take off the entire black plate inside the trunk that is situation between the taillights.
Great news, after replacing the fuel lines and adding fresh gas, she started right up! However, I have some seized calipers so I’m going to do new rotors and pads all around as well as new calipers and fluid.
Anyone have an opinion on remanufactured? They’re considerably less than new ATE OEMs.
Thank you!
Last edited by frostsdad; Sep 28, 2024 at 06:07 PM.
Progress on the calipers? Usually when these things seize it's the rubber seal and rust combination. I've just bought a '72 and have learned there were some changes in the early years. Need to see an actual pad to know what you have. Proceed with caution.
Progress on the calipers? Usually when these things seize it's the rubber seal and rust combination. I've just bought a '72 and have learned there were some changes in the early years. Need to see an actual pad to know what you have. Proceed with caution.
all set - the new model calipers on the front required a 15mm thick and 89.7mm width. Here are the parts I used if anyone has a similar issue:Calipers:
Front Left 107-420-02-83-M4
Front Right 107-420-03-83-M4
Rear Left 107-420-05-83-M4
Rear Right 107-420-06-83-M4
Rear Pads 001-420-06-20-41-MBZ
Front Pads 0004206420 (15mm thick, 89.7mm wide)
Front Rotor Vented 116-421-06-12-M359
Rear Rotor 126-423-00-12-64-MBZ
After doing all of that including near brake lines and fluid I still have a brake light on so I’m having a shop take a look at it. Maybe the master cylinder? Unless it just needs driven a few miles to have the light reset, unsure. Everything other than the master cylinder is brand new with the brakes.
Pelican Parts . . . check! I've saved your list against the eventuality. For now, mine is driving fine. Bit of a rough idle but otherwise, very nice running car. Still trying to sort removing the hardtop. Got a hoist installed the other day and figure to never reinstall the hard top (soft top is new) but also don't want it on a rack occupying floor space, which is too precious.
On benzworld, dugald share this photo of this hoist component and it's the most interesting I've seen but unfortunately, he doesn't know who makes/made it.
@frostsdad have gotten your brake light sorted? If not, check the level switch in your brake reservoir. It's probably dirty and stuck thinking its low on fluids thus giving you a false warning light. You might have to remove the reservoir and clean/flush it then re-install.
I love the interior of your 107! Please keep it green or sell it to me lol
Happy wrenching!
Sven
Last edited by parklandmb; Jan 2, 2025 at 10:44 AM.
@frostsdad have gotten your brake light sorted? If not, check the level switch in your brake reservoir. It's probably dirty and stuck thinking its low on fluids thus giving you a false warning light. You might have to remove the reservoir and clean/flush it then re-install.
I love the interior of your 107! Please keep it green or sell it to me lol
Happy wrenching!
Sven
yep, keeping it green. I’m going to leave all original, except put a gloss black wrap on the exterior. I think black exterior will look good with the green interior. Wrap should allow me to enjoy the look of color but not damage the paint.
appreciate the intel on the brake warning indicator. I currently have the car in shop to get new cap, plugs and wires as well as the brake light so this is timely for me to send to mechanic.
once this stuff is done, the rest is all cosmetic - installing two trim pieces; polishing chrome; etc. then outside of getting the wrap and a new convertible top down the road, it should be all set!
@frostsdad I'm glad to hear you are keeping the green! It's such a unique colour that you just have to keep it.
Please report back on the brake light issue!
Sven
@frostsdad I'm glad to hear you are keeping the green! It's such a unique colour that you just have to keep it.
Please report back on the brake light issue!
Sven
Sven, yes it grows on you. I think glossy black exterior will pair nicely with the green interior. Might do a colour matched green pinstripe to join the two together after it is wrapped.
interestingly, mechanic got back to me today and said it was the brake master cylinder reservoir. He’s replacing that to resolve the issue of leveling malfunctioning, thus telling the car to illuminate the brake light to advise master cylinder fluie
iw low. I think it is likely exactly what you mentioned, but the solve on behalf of mechanic was replacing vs cleaning. I didn’t argue; I’m sure a reservoir isn’t all that expensive. So next week that gets repaired upon arrival. We did a full tune up with new plugs, wires, cap and she’s running much more smoothly. I thought I had a bad plug and it’s appears that was the case. I haven’t driven it to know how much it’s imported but I forecast it is significant - she barely wanted to climb grades that weren’t even that sloped. Lastly, I put on new tires all around so it’ll get an alignment and then should be good to get her home for the next manual labor of detailing trim refreshing the black plastic and polishing the chrome. Once that’s done, then off to get a black wrap. Could use a new soft top but it’s still not a friend and I don’t plan on driving it much with the top up. Hard top Is in pristine control so I have options before I lay down a grand for a new top.
Ran across this post today and was interested in the source of the hard top clamp. The photo was analyzed by AI and this looks like a legitimate output:
The mechanism attaching to the hardtop in the photo appears to be a gutter-mount roof rack crossbar and clamp system from Thule, a Swedish manufacturer known for vehicle roof racks and accessories. These components are commonly repurposed for Mercedes SL hardtop removal setups, where the crossbar spans the width of the hardtop, clamps secure to the drip rails (edges) via adjustable feet with tightening knobs, and a central lift point connects to the hoist cable or hook for balanced lifting.
The name plate on the bar reads "THULE," which aligns with the partially discernible text in your uploaded image. Thule doesn't make dedicated hardtop hoists but their rack systems (e.g., models like the Thule SquareBar with gutter foot packs such as the 300 or 400 series) are frequently adapted for this purpose due to their sturdy steel or aluminum construction and compatibility with classic car profiles like the SL's."
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