SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: SL600 vs SL65
accurate than a dyno computer working out on the run down the resistance and giving a flywheel figure, it's at least measuring each individual car instead of just using a dividing figure. If you just want to see how much power you have gained then the whp figure is fine. However if you are just testing new cars to see how accurate the manufacturer's claims are, then the dyno on the run down must be used.
You can test 3 identical cars, with 3 different WHP outputs and then use a different loss coefficient and still come up with the same flywheel hp and I guarantee you that it will all be magic. What I am saying is that I can make ANY car spit out ANY flywheel hp by simply adjusting the loss factor.
I am done trying to explain this to you. Please read the articles and do some research on the topic.

Tom
As stated, it so hard to calculate gains if you only have the 'after mods' horsepower. But, 1/4 mile trap speed is probably a better calculating factor. We can dig up umpteen stock SL63 trap speeds and see if yours is any different. Even that's not going to be 100% due to different D.A. at different tracks.
To put this to bed, you really needed to do a baseline on the same dyno that you're going to use for 'after mod' testing.
Since your friend is a tuner, he should be able to flash you back to stock in 10 minutes. You can dyno, then put your tune back on in another 10 minutes.
That will give you the data you seek.
You can test 3 identical cars, with 3 different WHP outputs and then use a different loss coefficient and still come up with the same flywheel hp and I guarantee you that it will all be magic. What I am saying is that I can make ANY car spit out ANY flywheel hp by simply adjusting the loss factor.
I am done trying to explain this to you. Please read the articles and do some research on the topic.
The problem I have now is whether to put my SL63 on a rolling road, will anybody believe the figures!
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/coastdwn.htm
Tom
Any comment on this article?
Tom
The problem I have now is whether to put my SL63 on a rolling road, will anybody believe the figures!


I will second the question, did you read this article: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/coastdwn.htm ?

I will second the question, did you read this article: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/coastdwn.htm ?

-Rob
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/coastdwn.htm
Tom

I will second the question, did you read this article: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/coastdwn.htm ?
His silence is deafening...

Tom

It would appear that I made a mistake on post 32, at the time I was answering a question regarding my re mapped SL63 and how to measure 560+ and should have been on thread SL63 vs SL65 which dragged us into an argument about dyno's, so I am sorry, I started it.

Next, yes I have read it, but one thing I disagree with.
Quote: To run the test , the car was warmed up and given a couple of runs on the rollers to stabilize the temp etc..

I would never do a run unless my car had reached optimum temperature which in my car takes around 20 minutes this time of year. Giving a car full power on a cold or warm engine could seriously damage it. You should drive a car first until it reaches full temp before putting it on a rolling road, plus it sounds amateurish. Also every time you do a run, heat build up, especially in inter coolers will increase and lower your horse power, fans are inadequate.
However I have made the decision that a flywheel figure cannot be achieved on a rolling road. Sure measure a stock car's whp and again after tuning to see the gains, however it still wont give you a flywheel figure!
I started this thread and it was going great guns until my gaff on post 32, so
perhaps we can return to the op. Thanks Paul.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

It would appear that I made a mistake on post 32, at the time I was answering a question regarding my re mapped SL63 and how to measure 560+ and should have been on thread SL63 vs SL65 which dragged us into an argument about dyno's, so I am sorry, I started it.

Next, yes I have read it, but one thing I disagree with.
Quote: To run the test , the car was warmed up and given a couple of runs on the rollers to stabilize the temp etc..

I would never do a run unless my car had reached optimum temperature which in my car takes around 20 minutes this time of year. Giving a car full power on a cold or warm engine could seriously damage it. You should drive a car first until it reaches full temp before putting it on a rolling road, plus it sounds amateurish. Also every time you do a run, heat build up, especially in inter coolers will increase and lower your horse power, fans are inadequate.
However I have made the decision that a flywheel figure cannot be achieved on a rolling road. Sure measure a stock car's whp and again after tuning to see the gains, however it still wont give you a flywheel figure!
I started this thread and it was going great guns until my gaff on post 32, so
perhaps we can return to the op. Thanks Paul.
I commend you on your admission. It isn't always the easiest thing to do.
I agree with your point on warming the car up before running. However, I think most people don't have a problem getting a car back to normal operating temps at the dyno. In reality people need to drive a certain distance to get to the dyno place. Letting the car sit for 1/2 hour while waiting to do a few runs isn't going to require a lot of time to get the operating temp back up.
What was great was on my E39 M5 would have the tach LED lights have an extended "yellow" line until oil temps reached normal. The car would need to be shut down a few hours for the yellow lights to come back.
Tom
I commend you on your admission. It isn't always the easiest thing to do.
I agree with your point on warming the car up before running. However, I think most people don't have a problem getting a car back to normal operating temps at the dyno. In reality people need to drive a certain distance to get to the dyno place. Letting the car sit for 1/2 hour while waiting to do a few runs isn't going to require a lot of time to get the operating temp back up.
What was great was on my E39 M5 would have the tach LED lights have an extended "yellow" line until oil temps reached normal. The car would need to be shut down a few hours for the yellow lights to come back.
Tom
DynoJet you mention is only a rolling road!
I asked previously a question about your tune but never received an answer. Did the tune change your shift points? I am asking just out of curiosity.
Tom
I asked previously a question about your tune but never received an answer. Did the tune change your shift points? I am asking just out of curiosity.
Tom
http://www.dragtimes.com/2009-Merced...phs-16625.html
The S63 and the SL63 have the same engine hp rating from the factory. However, the SL63 has the MCT transmission and a shorter (lighter) drive shaft. I would imagine that even though the engine is rated the same, the SL63 has a greater efficiency (less parasitic loss). So in theory the SL63 should produce more rwhp on a Dynojet. So if you look at it mathematically, the S63 (using SAE rated hp) is rated at 518hp at the flywheel and 415rwhp on a DynoJet...parasitic loss of around 20%. An SL63 may have only 18% parasitic loss which would translate to 425rwhp (518hp X (100%-18%)).
Also, the S63 was dynoed at DC Performance which is in CA. Here on the East Coast we have 93 octane readily available. I am not sure if the ECU would pull timing if it sensed knocking with weak CA 91 octane gas (99% of CA gas stations have a maximum 91 octane available). Just an FYI, 91 octane (AKI) is equivalent to 95 RON. 93 octane (AKI) is equivalent to about 98 RON.
So an SL63 may also pick up hp with better octane gas. So I would throw a range of 420rwhp to 430rwhp for an SL63 on a DynoJet.
I would say that an SL63 would have to make about 450-460rwhp to hit the theoretical 553hp SAE or 560PS mark.
Tom
Last edited by TMC M5; Jan 22, 2010 at 03:52 PM.
http://www.dragtimes.com/2009-Merced...phs-16625.html
The S63 and the SL63 have the same engine hp rating from the factory. However, the SL63 has the MCT transmission and a shorter (lighter) drive shaft. I would imagine that even though the engine is rated the same, the SL63 has a greater efficiency (less parasitic loss). So in theory the SL63 should produce more rwhp on a Dynojet. So if you look at it mathematically, the S63 (using SAE rated hp) is rated at 518hp at the flywheel and 415rwhp on a DynoJet...parasitic loss of around 20%. An SL63 may have only 18% parasitic loss which would translate to 425rwhp (518hp X (100%-18%)).
Also, the S63 was dynoed at DC Performance which is in CA. Here on the East Coast we have 93 octane readily available. I am not sure if the ECU would pull timing if it sensed knocking with weak CA 91 octane gas (99% of CA gas stations have a maximum 91 octane available). Just an FYI, 91 octane (AKI) is equivalent to 95 RON. 93 octane (AKI) is equivalent to about 98 RON.
So an SL63 may also pick up hp with better octane gas. So I would throw a range of 420rwhp to 430rwhp for an SL63 on a DynoJet.
I would say that an SL63 would have to make about 450-460rwhp to hit the theoretical 553hp SAE or 560PS mark.
Tom
We have 99 octane at the pumps here, so if I take my 63 to a rolling road to measure whp then 460 would be quite good, but I seem not to trust them anymore so how do I know if it's over or under inflated

Believe me, and I have always said it as it is, if it was under I would still publish it, and no doubt upset all the 63 owners, as I did many moons ago with my 65. It turned out to be an oddball with no exclusive nappa leather and a S600 instrument cluster, I also found out it was a year at a dealers
before I purchased it.

I will certainly still take it.
Stock for stock (since it may be a while before I get a tune), how would you compare the SL600 to the E55?
http://www.dragtimes.com/2009-Merced...phs-16625.html
The S63 and the SL63 have the same engine hp rating from the factory. However, the SL63 has the MCT transmission and a shorter (lighter) drive shaft. I would imagine that even though the engine is rated the same, the SL63 has a greater efficiency (less parasitic loss). So in theory the SL63 should produce more rwhp on a Dynojet. So if you look at it mathematically, the S63 (using SAE rated hp) is rated at 518hp at the flywheel and 415rwhp on a DynoJet...parasitic loss of around 20%. An SL63 may have only 18% parasitic loss which would translate to 425rwhp (518hp X (100%-18%)).
Also, the S63 was dynoed at DC Performance which is in CA. Here on the East Coast we have 93 octane readily available. I am not sure if the ECU would pull timing if it sensed knocking with weak CA 91 octane gas (99% of CA gas stations have a maximum 91 octane available). Just an FYI, 91 octane (AKI) is equivalent to 95 RON. 93 octane (AKI) is equivalent to about 98 RON.
So an SL63 may also pick up hp with better octane gas. So I would throw a range of 420rwhp to 430rwhp for an SL63 on a DynoJet.
I would say that an SL63 would have to make about 450-460rwhp to hit the theoretical 553hp SAE or 560PS mark.
Tom



