SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Changing Brakes on 2003 SL55
03-17-2010, 05:42 PM
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2003 Mercedes SL55
Changing Brakes on 2003 SL55
I have just purchased a 2003 SL55 and it needs the brakes changed, based on the PPI. I was quoted $600 for front and rear brake pads. There has to be a better alternative.
I have worked on all my previous cars and have enough knowledge / comfort level to be able to do most of the maintenance work on all of the previous cars.
With the SL55 I'm curious as to when the PDC will operate and has anyone been successful with changing the brakes on their SL55.
On this topic, I found various posts that suggest just disconnecting the rear battery. Also, I would like to go with OEM brakes as I have read mixed reviews about aftermarket performance sets.
I plan on changing the brakes soon, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
I have worked on all my previous cars and have enough knowledge / comfort level to be able to do most of the maintenance work on all of the previous cars.
With the SL55 I'm curious as to when the PDC will operate and has anyone been successful with changing the brakes on their SL55.
On this topic, I found various posts that suggest just disconnecting the rear battery. Also, I would like to go with OEM brakes as I have read mixed reviews about aftermarket performance sets.
I plan on changing the brakes soon, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
03-17-2010, 07:25 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
This thread probably covers much of what you'll want to know: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...brake-job.html
Good luck!
Good luck!
I have just purchased a 2003 SL55 and it needs the brakes changed, based on the PPI. I was quoted $600 for front and rear brake pads. There has to be a better alternative.
I have worked on all my previous cars and have enough knowledge / comfort level to be able to do most of the maintenance work on all of the previous cars.
With the SL55 I'm curious as to when the PDC will operate and has anyone been successful with changing the brakes on their SL55.
On this topic, I found various posts that suggest just disconnecting the rear battery. Also, I would like to go with OEM brakes as I have read mixed reviews about aftermarket performance sets.
I plan on changing the brakes soon, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
I have worked on all my previous cars and have enough knowledge / comfort level to be able to do most of the maintenance work on all of the previous cars.
With the SL55 I'm curious as to when the PDC will operate and has anyone been successful with changing the brakes on their SL55.
On this topic, I found various posts that suggest just disconnecting the rear battery. Also, I would like to go with OEM brakes as I have read mixed reviews about aftermarket performance sets.
I plan on changing the brakes soon, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
03-18-2010, 04:52 PM
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'03 SL 55 AMG
brakes
Ironically, I just did mine last night, on the same year and model car. I had read some of the various posts and by the time I was done, it made my head hurt. So, I just did the following. Keep in mind that I changed out the rotors as well.
I disconnected both batteries. I forgot to unplug the brake controller. Car was locked, on a lift, with both the trunk and hood open.
Pulled both front wheels.
Pulled the driver's side caliper. There was no brake sensor on that one. If I recall, the allen bolts required something like a 14mm allen, but I'm not positive. I know it was slightly bigger than a 3/8, which I used because I could fit it on my impact gun. (If all you're changing is the pads, you don't have to pull the calipers. You can use a 10mm socket to take the bolt out on each side of the bar that separates front from rear pads, pull that bar out, drive out the pins that hold each set of pads in the calipers, wiggle the pads with a screw driver to loosen them a bit, and then pull the pads out, leaving the caliper and rotor in place.) You should probably pull the pads out of the caliper before pulling the caliper off, but i did it the opposite.
With the pads loose or out, you can pull the caliper off..the only thing holding it on are the two bolts mentioned above.
I used a giant zip tie to hang the caliper from the upper suspension. It was out of the way and didn't stretch anything.
Cleaned the caliper thoroughly with brake cleaner and checked to make sure the pistons were free and working.
Changed the rotors. Had to whack the old ones pretty good with a soft hammer to break them loose, but they came. There is one small Torx screw that holds each rotor in place. I used a hand impact with a torx bit on it to break those loose.
New rotor in place, I bolted the caliper back on.
Cracked the bleeders and worked at sliding the pads in place. You want to be a bit careful not to push a piston too far back in and also to not let one too far out. The pistons move pretty easily, just using a screw driver and the pad to pry them where I wanted them.
With pads in place, put the pins back in with the clip they hold, installed the bar between the pads, with the two bolts.
Put the wheel (with new tire that I'd installed) back on.
Hooked up the electricals, got in the car, pumped the brake once and started it up. All seems ALMOST fine.
The right one had the brake wear sensor in it. I just unbolted it from the caliper and pulled the wear sensor out of the pad. I had a couple spares, but that one seemed fine so just slid it back into the new pad and bolted it back up when done.
As for the ALMOST. I think my issues were from the disconnecting batteries. My message system in the dash was reading funny...not starting up where it should. Plus, of all things, whatever it is that makes your windows open a bit when you open the door and then shut after the door is closed, is not working properly . It leaves the window open.
I'll get that figured out tonight.
good luck
I disconnected both batteries. I forgot to unplug the brake controller. Car was locked, on a lift, with both the trunk and hood open.
Pulled both front wheels.
Pulled the driver's side caliper. There was no brake sensor on that one. If I recall, the allen bolts required something like a 14mm allen, but I'm not positive. I know it was slightly bigger than a 3/8, which I used because I could fit it on my impact gun. (If all you're changing is the pads, you don't have to pull the calipers. You can use a 10mm socket to take the bolt out on each side of the bar that separates front from rear pads, pull that bar out, drive out the pins that hold each set of pads in the calipers, wiggle the pads with a screw driver to loosen them a bit, and then pull the pads out, leaving the caliper and rotor in place.) You should probably pull the pads out of the caliper before pulling the caliper off, but i did it the opposite.
With the pads loose or out, you can pull the caliper off..the only thing holding it on are the two bolts mentioned above.
I used a giant zip tie to hang the caliper from the upper suspension. It was out of the way and didn't stretch anything.
Cleaned the caliper thoroughly with brake cleaner and checked to make sure the pistons were free and working.
Changed the rotors. Had to whack the old ones pretty good with a soft hammer to break them loose, but they came. There is one small Torx screw that holds each rotor in place. I used a hand impact with a torx bit on it to break those loose.
New rotor in place, I bolted the caliper back on.
Cracked the bleeders and worked at sliding the pads in place. You want to be a bit careful not to push a piston too far back in and also to not let one too far out. The pistons move pretty easily, just using a screw driver and the pad to pry them where I wanted them.
With pads in place, put the pins back in with the clip they hold, installed the bar between the pads, with the two bolts.
Put the wheel (with new tire that I'd installed) back on.
Hooked up the electricals, got in the car, pumped the brake once and started it up. All seems ALMOST fine.
The right one had the brake wear sensor in it. I just unbolted it from the caliper and pulled the wear sensor out of the pad. I had a couple spares, but that one seemed fine so just slid it back into the new pad and bolted it back up when done.
As for the ALMOST. I think my issues were from the disconnecting batteries. My message system in the dash was reading funny...not starting up where it should. Plus, of all things, whatever it is that makes your windows open a bit when you open the door and then shut after the door is closed, is not working properly . It leaves the window open.
I'll get that figured out tonight.
good luck
03-18-2010, 10:55 PM
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2003 Mercedes SL55
Ironically, I just did mine last night, on the same year and model car. I had read some of the various posts and by the time I was done, it made my head hurt. So, I just did the following. Keep in mind that I changed out the rotors as well.
I disconnected both batteries. I forgot to unplug the brake controller. Car was locked, on a lift, with both the trunk and hood open.
Pulled both front wheels.
Pulled the driver's side caliper. There was no brake sensor on that one. If I recall, the allen bolts required something like a 14mm allen, but I'm not positive. I know it was slightly bigger than a 3/8, which I used because I could fit it on my impact gun. (If all you're changing is the pads, you don't have to pull the calipers. You can use a 10mm socket to take the bolt out on each side of the bar that separates front from rear pads, pull that bar out, drive out the pins that hold each set of pads in the calipers, wiggle the pads with a screw driver to loosen them a bit, and then pull the pads out, leaving the caliper and rotor in place.) You should probably pull the pads out of the caliper before pulling the caliper off, but i did it the opposite.
With the pads loose or out, you can pull the caliper off..the only thing holding it on are the two bolts mentioned above.
I used a giant zip tie to hang the caliper from the upper suspension. It was out of the way and didn't stretch anything.
Cleaned the caliper thoroughly with brake cleaner and checked to make sure the pistons were free and working.
Changed the rotors. Had to whack the old ones pretty good with a soft hammer to break them loose, but they came. There is one small Torx screw that holds each rotor in place. I used a hand impact with a torx bit on it to break those loose.
New rotor in place, I bolted the caliper back on.
Cracked the bleeders and worked at sliding the pads in place. You want to be a bit careful not to push a piston too far back in and also to not let one too far out. The pistons move pretty easily, just using a screw driver and the pad to pry them where I wanted them.
With pads in place, put the pins back in with the clip they hold, installed the bar between the pads, with the two bolts.
Put the wheel (with new tire that I'd installed) back on.
Hooked up the electricals, got in the car, pumped the brake once and started it up. All seems ALMOST fine.
The right one had the brake wear sensor in it. I just unbolted it from the caliper and pulled the wear sensor out of the pad. I had a couple spares, but that one seemed fine so just slid it back into the new pad and bolted it back up when done.
As for the ALMOST. I think my issues were from the disconnecting batteries. My message system in the dash was reading funny...not starting up where it should. Plus, of all things, whatever it is that makes your windows open a bit when you open the door and then shut after the door is closed, is not working properly . It leaves the window open.
I'll get that figured out tonight.
good luck
I disconnected both batteries. I forgot to unplug the brake controller. Car was locked, on a lift, with both the trunk and hood open.
Pulled both front wheels.
Pulled the driver's side caliper. There was no brake sensor on that one. If I recall, the allen bolts required something like a 14mm allen, but I'm not positive. I know it was slightly bigger than a 3/8, which I used because I could fit it on my impact gun. (If all you're changing is the pads, you don't have to pull the calipers. You can use a 10mm socket to take the bolt out on each side of the bar that separates front from rear pads, pull that bar out, drive out the pins that hold each set of pads in the calipers, wiggle the pads with a screw driver to loosen them a bit, and then pull the pads out, leaving the caliper and rotor in place.) You should probably pull the pads out of the caliper before pulling the caliper off, but i did it the opposite.
With the pads loose or out, you can pull the caliper off..the only thing holding it on are the two bolts mentioned above.
I used a giant zip tie to hang the caliper from the upper suspension. It was out of the way and didn't stretch anything.
Cleaned the caliper thoroughly with brake cleaner and checked to make sure the pistons were free and working.
Changed the rotors. Had to whack the old ones pretty good with a soft hammer to break them loose, but they came. There is one small Torx screw that holds each rotor in place. I used a hand impact with a torx bit on it to break those loose.
New rotor in place, I bolted the caliper back on.
Cracked the bleeders and worked at sliding the pads in place. You want to be a bit careful not to push a piston too far back in and also to not let one too far out. The pistons move pretty easily, just using a screw driver and the pad to pry them where I wanted them.
With pads in place, put the pins back in with the clip they hold, installed the bar between the pads, with the two bolts.
Put the wheel (with new tire that I'd installed) back on.
Hooked up the electricals, got in the car, pumped the brake once and started it up. All seems ALMOST fine.
The right one had the brake wear sensor in it. I just unbolted it from the caliper and pulled the wear sensor out of the pad. I had a couple spares, but that one seemed fine so just slid it back into the new pad and bolted it back up when done.
As for the ALMOST. I think my issues were from the disconnecting batteries. My message system in the dash was reading funny...not starting up where it should. Plus, of all things, whatever it is that makes your windows open a bit when you open the door and then shut after the door is closed, is not working properly . It leaves the window open.
I'll get that figured out tonight.
good luck
Thank you again...
03-18-2010, 11:09 PM
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'03 SL 55 AMG
that's not bad. I checked around on the internet and ordered fronts plus pads for something over 350 total, which was about the cheapest I found. You can spend a ton if you want. Depends on how hard you drive it I guess, and how much you want to avoid changing pads or rotors in the future.
03-18-2010, 11:58 PM
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SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
I think I paid $125 for front rotors and $90 for rears, and $250 for pads. You don't have to disconnect the battery, if you unplug the electronic brake system.
03-22-2010, 06:11 PM
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sl55 amg
I am changing out the rotors on my 2003 SL55...can anyone tell me what exact socket fits on the "star bolts" that hold the rear calipers in place? I believe it is about the size of a 14mm socket, but it is either a "star" bolt or a "torx" bolt. Thanx! Joe
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03-22-2010, 08:44 PM
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2003 Mercedes SL55
There is nothing to this procedure as some have stated, all you have to do is:
1. Open the hood and lock the car.
2. Disconnect the SBC Connectore (you have to pull up on the top of the tab and it will just come out)
3. Put some rags around the overflow tank
4. From now on its like normal brake/rotor change
5. Connect SBC Connector
6. Pump brake ~10 times with foot
7. Start the car.
This was simple however I still had to take my car to a local (CarX) shop to take the caliper bolts off. There was no way I was going to break those loose. The bolt is a T70 and you need a Torx socket for it E16 I believe. The shop ended up replacing front and rear brakes/rotors for $280 which was only a factor of the parts cost $950.
Overall, very satisifed with the results and appreciate everyones inputs.
Thank you
1. Open the hood and lock the car.
2. Disconnect the SBC Connectore (you have to pull up on the top of the tab and it will just come out)
3. Put some rags around the overflow tank
4. From now on its like normal brake/rotor change
5. Connect SBC Connector
6. Pump brake ~10 times with foot
7. Start the car.
This was simple however I still had to take my car to a local (CarX) shop to take the caliper bolts off. There was no way I was going to break those loose. The bolt is a T70 and you need a Torx socket for it E16 I believe. The shop ended up replacing front and rear brakes/rotors for $280 which was only a factor of the parts cost $950.
Overall, very satisifed with the results and appreciate everyones inputs.
Thank you
