SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: SL500.65 BLACK SERIES PHOTO SHOOT
my family's business is in complete fabrication from A-Z in Surf/Sail/Skim/Long Boards. I currently do my own custom Airbrush designs, including oil paintings, I used to work in family business for +10 yrs.. (started by Airbrushing Surfboards, then learned ALL other steps in surfboard production)
So Q: This kit looks to be intirely made from Fiberglass? Or are these just the molds? If yes? what is the exact mixture or base of resins used? IE Epoxy/Polyurethane/Polystyrene? Final Gel Coat?
Last edited by Thericker; Jun 21, 2010 at 07:12 PM.
Also text above is un-clear are you stating Black SL in pix above is Sarona kit???
Last edited by Thericker; Jun 21, 2010 at 06:58 PM.
And here are the pictures of the SLBlack Series we did from like way back. Forgiato has the car now and did a good job on the wheels, remember with the horrible wheels the customer had chosen and the 05 tail lights and how we should have changed the lights.
Here's their picture..
Last edited by marios13; Jun 21, 2010 at 10:50 PM.
my family's business is in complete fabrication from A-Z in Surf/Sail/Skim/Long Boards. I currently do my own custom Airbrush designs, including oil paintings, I used to work in family business for +10 yrs.. (started by Airbrushing Surfboards, then learned ALL other steps in surfboard production)
So Q: This kit looks to be intirely made from Fiberglass? Or are these just the molds? If yes? what is the exact mixture or base of resins used? IE Epoxy/Polyurethane/Polystyrene? Final Gel Coat?

What you see in the picture is the mold. I'm sure you already know that. We have been in business for 35 years. We breath resin all day, a natural high for us lol
Epoxy? when do you ever use epoxy on fiberglass? We use epoxy when it's a carbon fiber. Not on FG.
Polyurethane is a completely different mold you should know that, that would be using a injection mold the out skin is a hard layer of fiber mats and are two pieced with channels of the liquids.
Polystyrene (Styrofoam) is used for making something like paper foam cups, or doggy bag covers like when you finish eating at apple bees hahaha.
What you see in the picture is the mold. I'm sure you already know that. We have been in business for 35 years. We breath resin all day, a natural high for us lol
Epoxy? when do you ever use epoxy on fiberglass? We use epoxy when it's a carbon fiber. Not on FG.
Polyurethane is a completely different mold you should know that, that would be using a injection mold the out skin is a hard layer of fiber mats and are two pieced with channels of the liquids.
Polystyrene (Styrofoam) is used for making something like paper foam cups, or doggy bag covers like when you finish eating at apple bees hahaha.

Pretty much what I expected, given your previous attempts @ posts/sales/describing your inferior product... You're totally lost, so the kit is pure Fiberglass? No Poly mix = brittle POS, for Prof Body kit you need either Poly mix /Dura-Flex/ or serious Gel-Coat to keep some Flex in product...
Flex-Fiber/Dura-Flex, any body piece advertised as being made with both Fiberglass and Urethane will have both characteristics of the two.
Most COMPETENT Prof tuners like 100% Polyurethane because of the fact that it's less prone to shattering on ANY impact. IE any slight abrasion/concussion will cause 100% Fiberglass kit to shatter like glass.
100% Fiberglass kit will cause the reg paintwork to "SPIDER" over a short period of time. (unless a thick Gel-Coat is properly applied) (Small spider/veiny cracks will appear from constant expanding/contracting from normal weather conditions over brittle Fiberglass surface)
Fiberglass/FRP(Fiber Reinforced Plastic) vs. Polyurethane:
Both materials have their pros and cons.
Fiberglass/FRP:
--Pros:
-Lightweight
-Easily repairable
-Easily painted
-Very cheap
--Cons:
-Easier to break/shatter
Polyurethane:
--Pros:
-Very resistant to breaking, has TONS of FLEX, same quality you get OEM
--Cons:
-Painting requires much more Prof work for proper adhesion
-A lot more expensive
-Repairing polyurethane will be really difficult.
-Weighs a bit more than fiberglass.
The OEM impact/energy absorber installed directly behind OEM Bumpers etc... Is made from high-impact Polypropylene or Polyethylene foam, and the aftermarket version commonly uses Polystyrene foam. The OEM absorber (black) and the aftermarket (white) look similar, but the OEM is much stiffer.

Making "Paper Cups" huh????
Which do you use to fill out your vastly enlarged SL Black Series Bumpers/Side-Skirts etc... Lemme guess?? Neither, you just reuse the smaller OEM impact/energy/absorber material... Great for possible future accidents ehhh???
If brains were $ Money $ you'd have to take out a loan for a cup of coffee

BTW Brainiac
Epoxy is currently used by a number of Surf/Longboard manufacturers + a certain very famous Surfboard Co....(Yes they use Carbon-Fiber & Balsa wood etc..) Benefits of Epoxy include: It can be bonded IE layered over multi-plastic surfaces, where as reg Resin will MELT said plastics. It also has vastly different advantages over reg Fiberglass...Epoxy surfboards typically use EPS or expanded polystyrene foam as their foam core. This foam is a lot less dense and therefore a lot lighter. The density also directly effects the float of the surfboard.
Usually an epoxy surfboard will be more buoyant than a comparable size traditional fiberglass surfboard allowing the surfer to float higher in the water making it easier to paddle.
Epoxy surfboards use epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is super hard and will result in a much stronger surfboard, making your surfboard less ding prone and more durable.
Epoxy surfboards are known for their durability and light weight. But what typically isn't talked about is their cons.
Because epoxy surfboards are lighter, stronger and more buoyant, they have a tendency to be "bouncy" in choppy water. Also, due to their stiffness, they seem to be much less responsive.
All in all epoxy surfboards are catching up to PU surfboards in a big way. Most of the CURRENT major manufactures out have some line of epoxy Surfboards AVAILABLE now.
If you ever used a proper Respirator or really knew your chosen field of Industry you should/would know all this, yet you most likely work w/out a respirator/mask of ANY kind, & have poor @ best knowledge/grasp on making/fabricating a quality SL BS bodykit..
Actually obvious since you're trying to sell that used up 2003 High Mileaged POS sl500 w/Peanut-Brittle Fiberglass kit for $70k


Lastly: (There's a current SL65 BS hybrid body-kit using Fiberglass/Poly blend (huge Flex more like Pure OEM
selling for MERE $11k
Only new headlights/Mirrors/front MB Grill is left for client to buy (Hardly equal to your OUTRAGEOUS $24k
in Parts alone, the HUGE aftermarket wheels in your pix are trash, One could easily resuse current setup on a stock SL R230 03'-10' they're known as lightweight Hubcentric SPACERS
Last edited by Thericker; Jun 22, 2010 at 06:56 AM.
Flex-Fiber/Dura-Flex, any body piece advertised as being made with both Fiberglass and Urethane will have both characteristics of the two.
Most COMPETENT Prof tuners like 100% Polyurethane because of the fact that it's less prone to shattering on ANY impact. IE any slight abrasion/concussion will cause 100% Fiberglass kit to shatter like glass.
100% Fiberglass kit will cause the reg paintwork to "SPIDER" over a short period of time. (unless a thick Gel-Coat is properly applied) (Small spider/veiny cracks will appear from constant expanding/contracting from normal weather conditions over brittle Fiberglass surface)
Fiberglass/FRP(Fiber Reinforced Plastic) vs. Polyurethane:
Both materials have their pros and cons.
Fiberglass/FRP:
--Pros:
-Lightweight
-Easily repairable
-Easily painted
-Very cheap
--Cons:
-Easier to break/shatter
Polyurethane:
--Pros:
-Very resistant to breaking, has TONS of FLEX, same quality you get OEM
--Cons:
-Painting requires much more Prof work for proper adhesion
-A lot more expensive
-Repairing polyurethane will be really difficult.
-Weighs a bit more than fiberglass.
The OEM impact/energy absorber installed directly behind OEM Bumpers etc... Is made from high-impact Polypropylene or Polyethylene foam, and the aftermarket version commonly uses Polystyrene foam. The OEM absorber (black) and the aftermarket (white) look similar, but the OEM is much stiffer.

Making "Paper Cups" huh????
Which do you use to fill out your vastly enlarged SL Black Series Bumpers/Side-Skirts etc... Lemme guess?? Neither, you just reuse the smaller OEM impact/energy/absorber material... Great for possible future accidents ehhh???
If brains were $ Money $ you'd have to take out a loan for a cup of coffee

BTW Brainiac
Epoxy is currently used by a number of Surf/Longboard manufacturers + a certain very famous Surfboard Co....(Yes they use Carbon-Fiber & Balsa wood etc..) Benefits of Epoxy include: It can be bonded IE layered over multi-plastic surfaces, where as reg Resin will MELT said plastics. It also has vastly different advantages over reg Fiberglass...Epoxy surfboards are still made out of foam, fiberglass and resin but the materials are different.
Epoxy surfboards typically use EPS or expanded polystyrene foam as their foam core. This foam is a lot less dense and therefore a lot lighter. The density also directly effects the float of the surfboard.
Usually an epoxy surfboard will be more buoyant than a comparable size traditional fiberglass surfboard allowing the surfer to float higher in the water making it easier to paddle.
Epoxy surfboards use epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is super hard and will result in a much stronger surfboard, making your surfboard less ding prone and more durable.
Epoxy surfboards are known for their durability and light weight. But what typically isn't talked about is their cons.
Because epoxy surfboards are lighter, stronger and more buoyant, they have a tendency to be "bouncy" in choppy water. Also, due to their stiffness, they seem to be much less responsive.
All in all epoxy surfboards are catching up to PU surfboards in a big way. Most of the CURRENT major manufactures out have some line of epoxy Surfboards AVAILABLE now.
If you ever used a proper Respirator or really knew your chosen field of Industry you should/would know all this, yet you most likely work w/out a respirator/mask of ANY kind, & have poor @ best knowledge/grasp on making/fabricating a quality SL BS bodykit..
Actually obvious since you're trying to sell that used up 2003 High Mileaged POS sl500 w/Peanut-Brittle Fiberglass kit for $70k


Lastly: (There's a current SL65 BS hybrid body-kit using Fiberglass/Poly blend (huge Flex more like Pure OEM
selling for MERE $11k
Only new headlights/Mirrors/front MB Grill is left for client to buy (Hardly equal to your OUTRAGEOUS $24k
in Parts alone, the HUGE aftermarket wheels in your pix are trash, One could easily resuse current setup on a stock SL R230 03'-10' they're known as lightweight Hubcentric SPACERS
No wonder your talking so much bs. I don't need to tell you how they are made. I have a rep, for making good products. You have to be very stupid or not knowledgeable in polyurethane. Polyurethane is great and I'm not disputing that, but you can't mix both. it's a different process.
I make polyurethane products for many companies as well as I make it for the CLS and the S class kits so shut the **** up.
Poly and Fiberglass don't mix you fool.
Fiberglass and a type of plastic can mix which is now known as FRP. Which I use I also used something call Fosfet that you wouldn't know about.
We make stuff for G6 planes, so don't get on this thread to tell me how to make stuff. I know where we come from your just a new jack making ****ing surf board. Go back to school and learn from someone who has more experience.
Again learn to ask question not attack you stupido. Your factory fits and does not affect it and fill it enough. You think that foam will save your life. How stupid can you be.
"Which do you use to fill out your vastly enlarged SL Black Series Bumpers/Side-Skirts etc... Lemme guess?? Neither, you just reuse the smaller OEM impact/energy/absorber material... Great for possible future accidents ehhh???"
Spidercracks happen because it's just fiberglass? it happens because you use a cheap gel coat. WE DON't. ANd spider also happens when you don't use flexable Resin. Has nothing to do with 100% fiberglass it has to do with what you are using as well. Understood?
Spacers? your stupid, stay off this thread. Go back to the rock where you came from. We don't use spacers. We either use Rennen or Work Wheels. Do your self a favor call up the dealer and ask them for pricing for all I gave you and see what pricing you get.
"(Hardly equal to your OUTRAGEOUS $24k
in Parts alone, the HUGE aftermarket wheels in your pix are trash, One could easily resuse current setup on a stock SL R230 03'-10' they're known as lightweight Hubcentric SPACERS
[/QUOTE]"
Last edited by marios13; Jun 22, 2010 at 04:41 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
No wonder your talking so much bs. I don't need to tell you how they are made. I have a rep, for making good products. You have to be very stupid or not knowledgeable in polyurethane. Polyurethane is great and I'm not disputing that, but you can't mix both. it's a different process.
I make polyurethane products for many companies as well as I make it for the CLS and the S class kits so shut the **** up.
Poly and Fiberglass don't mix you fool.
Fiberglass and a type of plastic can mix which is now known as FRP. Which I use I also used something call Fosfet that you wouldn't know about.
We make stuff for G6 planes, so don't get on this thread to tell me how to make stuff. I know where we come from your just a new jack making ****ing surf board. Go back to school and learn from someone who has more experience.
Again learn to ask question not attack you stupido. Your factory fits and does not affect it and fill it enough. You think that foam will save your life. How stupid can you be.
"Which do you use to fill out your vastly enlarged SL Black Series Bumpers/Side-Skirts etc... Lemme guess?? Neither, you just reuse the smaller OEM impact/energy/absorber material... Great for possible future accidents ehhh???"
Spidercracks happen because it's just fiberglass? it happens because you use a cheap gel coat. WE DON't. ANd spider also happens when you don't use flexable Resin. Has nothing to do with 100% fiberglass it has to do with what you are using as well. Understood?
Spacers? your stupid, stay off this thread. Go back to the rock where you came from. We don't use spacers. We either use Rennen or Work Wheels. Do your self a favor call up the dealer and ask them for pricing for all I gave you and see what pricing you get.
"(Hardly equal to your OUTRAGEOUS $24k
in Parts alone, the HUGE aftermarket wheels in your pix are trash, One could easily resuse current setup on a stock SL R230 03'-10' they're known as lightweight Hubcentric SPACERS
I could play you mentally like a fiddle all day long mongo

35 years sniffing resin has made you a real expert
Last edited by Thericker; Jun 22, 2010 at 04:26 PM.
I could play you mentally like a fiddle all day long mongo

35 years sniffing resin has made you a real expert

I can go on all day too.


i too, am very interested in the 11k kit...any more info?
also you seem to know a lot about the quality of kits, i wanted to know if marios13's kit is completely unreliable or are you just pissed off due to your interaction so you are putting it down excessively?
i was just considering going in that direction but since you have extensive knowledge on how all this stuff is made...i wouldnt want to make a stupid decision based on inadequate facts...please let me know how poor the quality is...considering it is just fiberglass rather than a fiber/poly blend?
my intent was using an sl65 or a rennteched sl600 for the base
but dont want to invest excessively in something that can crack easily (especially considering the fact that i will be driving nyc roads)
thanks in advance for your help
i too, am very interested in the 11k kit...any more info?
also you seem to know a lot about the quality of kits, i wanted to know if marios13's kit is completely unreliable or are you just pissed off due to your interaction so you are putting it down excessively?
i was just considering going in that direction but since you have extensive knowledge on how all this stuff is made...i wouldnt want to make a stupid decision based on inadequate facts...please let me know how poor the quality is...considering it is just fiberglass rather than a fiber/poly blend?
my intent was using an sl65 or a rennteched sl600 for the base
but dont want to invest excessively in something that can crack easily (especially considering the fact that i will be driving nyc roads)
thanks in advance for your help
When can you come by?
...i just want to know that i wont be throwing money away due to the quality of the product being offered. i know some people might think that its throwing money away regardless but my main concern is that it will not break down on me after the first pothole or some ******* trying to park his minivan in a spot small for a mini cooper. i have a garage but every once in a while **** happens.
When can you come by?
can you pm me the hours of operation?
as stupid as this sounds my main incentive for upgrading to an sl65 is to get the bs conversion...i just have to find the optimal kit which is why im being as skeptical as i am about the whole endeavor (not to mention that it is quite a bit of money to put down for something that might be sub par in any way)













