SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: trunk closing problem
Last edited by aluthman; Sep 7, 2010 at 11:46 PM.
It's a 20A fuse, numbered 171 on your fuse diagram. Its located underneath the passenger side rear cubby.
My soft close trunk latch stopped working yesterday. Did the research on here, popped that fuse and reinstalled and all is well with the world.
It's probably foreshadowing of doom, and a new PSE pump will probably be needed in the near future. We'll see....
It's a 20A fuse, numbered 171 on your fuse diagram. Its located underneath the passenger side rear cubby.
My soft close trunk latch stopped working yesterday. Did the research on here, popped that fuse and reinstalled and all is well with the world.
It's probably foreshadowing of doom, and a new PSE pump will probably be needed in the near future. We'll see....
and yes, the fuse is the only 20 amp fuse behind the pass seat in the cubby. you remove the cover and the fuses are further down under- i use needle-nose pliers to remove and reinsert fuses there. unless there is an easy way which i am not aware of...
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the pump is smart to identify which circuit is leaking and disables pumping into that one. so you can have some of them working and some of them not working and the pump ignoring the leaky ones altogether. resetting the pump fuse makes the pump forget the leaky circuits and start pumping into them again. until the next timeout and ignore if the leaky circuit is not repaired.
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the pump is smart to identify which circuit is leaking and disables pumping into that one. so you can have some of them working and some of them not working and the pump ignoring the leaky ones altogether. resetting the pump fuse makes the pump forget the leaky circuits and start pumping into them again. until the next timeout and ignore if the leaky circuit is not repaired.
the pump is smart to identify which circuit is leaking and disables pumping into that one. so you can have some of them working and some of them not working and the pump ignoring the leaky ones altogether. resetting the pump fuse makes the pump forget the leaky circuits and start pumping into them again. until the next timeout and ignore if the leaky circuit is not repaired.
If it just disables that circuit, why are the other members above, not receiving an error in the MFD like I did? How they able to fully close their lids but I couldn't? Granted, I didn't slam it down. Is that what needed to be done?
I understand the logic, and maybe all I needed to do was slam the damn thing. But after years of closing it, with just the slightest amount of pressure, slamming it seemed like it would do harm.
If it just disables that circuit, why are the other members above, not receiving an error in the MFD like I did? How they able to fully close their lids but I couldn't? Granted, I didn't slam it down. Is that what needed to be done?
I understand the logic, and maybe all I needed to do was slam the damn thing. But after years of closing it, with just the slightest amount of pressure, slamming it seemed like it would do harm.
Now that you mention it, it clearly is not right and since it does not have anything to do with the drop top it is starting to bug me. I just might have to replace the latch while my SL sits in the garage for the long Milwaukee winter.
Will it keep working? Do I have a air circuit leak that caused the fuse to blow? Who knows. But for now...it works.
Will it keep working? Do I have a air circuit leak that caused the fuse to blow? Who knows. But for now...it works.

On the other hand I am one of these freaks that will grind my teeth now that I know something that is supposed to work...is not
When it is quiet around the car reset the pump and soft close the trunk. Listen. Yu can usually hear the air wooshing in the latch area. If you don't have a warranty it is an excellent low effort weekend project.
Last edited by alx; Oct 13, 2011 at 10:03 PM.
Will it keep working? Do I have a air circuit leak that caused the fuse to blow? Who knows. But for now...it works.
If it works, I am going to be pissed because I am willing to bet if I would have told my SA to fix my soft close when he asked me about it, he would have charged me up the butt as usual instead of just replacing the fuse.
Just like when my 80mm TB ate a gasket. I had just put down a snotty nosed kid in a ricer and all of a sudden no throttle. The Little ***** thought he was going to beat me to the freeway on ramp. No dice little *****. Not even close. Then I get a red warning on the MFD. something like: ESP warning go to workshop you dumb ***. The stealer pulls codes. Says TB bad. I get on the forum and in minutes I have half a dozen of my modded E55 buddies saying hahah your TB ate a gasket. easy fix. I tell the stealer to have a look at the throat of the throttle and they will most likely see a gasket stuck in it. They say no way, bad TB must replace $800 installed or whatever. I call the shop manager and told him I was on the way over. He and I walk out to my SL and have a look. Bottom line: I get charged for like three hours tech time and a $5 gasket.
Sorry about the rant! I'll blame in on the glenkinchie 12. Very nice by the way. I think my point was this forum is full of great info and has saved me tons of $$$ over the years. Thanks guys.
When I close the trunk, it does its thing. I hear it suck. But when I look at the trunk, it isn't quite closed and there is about a 2 degree angle between the trunk and the rear fender.
It almost seems like the trunk needs to be adjusted. Has anyone done this?
The system worked 3 or 4 times and failed after the struts were replaced, but after the new struts broke in a bit, as they were quite stiff in operation, the system is working fine now....
I am wondering on how much the struts effect the total operation and tripping the fuse, in my case it seems fixed permanently.........struts were $60.......
I did hear some air release the other day, but the operation was not effected...........maybe I am on borrowed time.......
Have a warranty for another 2 years, so I using the trunk more instead of the front seat and I am opening and closing more than usual from the inside switch to see if it fails, so to speak....
When I close the trunk, it does its thing. I hear it suck. But when I look at the trunk, it isn't quite closed and there is about a 2 degree angle between the trunk and the rear fender.
It almost seems like the trunk needs to be adjusted. Has anyone done this?
you sure there are no obstacles in the trunk around the hinges and nothing fell in there and is blocking the trunk from closing fully?
The system worked 3 or 4 times and failed after the struts were replaced, but after the new struts broke in a bit, as they were quite stiff in operation, the system is working fine now....
I am wondering on how much the struts effect the total operation and tripping the fuse, in my case it seems fixed permanently.........struts were $60.......
I did hear some air release the other day, but the operation was not effected...........maybe I am on borrowed time.......
Have a warranty for another 2 years, so I using the trunk more instead of the front seat and I am opening and closing more than usual from the inside switch to see if it fails, so to speak....
The system worked 3 or 4 times and failed after the struts were replaced, but after the new struts broke in a bit, as they were quite stiff in operation, the system is working fine now....
I am wondering on how much the struts effect the total operation and tripping the fuse, in my case it seems fixed permanently.........struts were $60.......
I did hear some air release the other day, but the operation was not effected...........maybe I am on borrowed time.......
Have a warranty for another 2 years, so I using the trunk more instead of the front seat and I am opening and closing more than usual from the inside switch to see if it fails, so to speak....






