SL55 AMG, SL63 AMG, SL65 AMG (R230) 2002 - 2011 (2003 US for SL55 and 2004 for the SL65)

SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: trunk closing problem

Old Sep 6, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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trunk closing problem

would someone please tell me which fuse powers the trunk closer. thanks
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 11:44 PM
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I can't tell you which fuse it is off the top of my head, as I don't have the fuse diagram at the moment. If your trunk isn't sucking down like it should, you probably have a leak somewhere on or around the trunk latch. If you have problems with the door locks also, then it could also be your pse pump. I would start by removing the trunk latch assembly and checking the hoses for any obvious cracks that can be sealed. If you don't find anything obvious, you may need to replace the assembly. I had to replace mine, and if I recall correctly, it was around $320 from the dealer. Pulling the fuse will only reset the safety time out for the pump. This is only a temporary fix and it will stop working again soon. Doing this too often will cause the pump to run excessively which could damage it. If you have to replace the pse pump, you'll wish you just spent the money on the latch instead.

Last edited by aluthman; Sep 7, 2010 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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I know this is an old thread, but the following is good info:



It's a 20A fuse, numbered 171 on your fuse diagram. Its located underneath the passenger side rear cubby.

My soft close trunk latch stopped working yesterday. Did the research on here, popped that fuse and reinstalled and all is well with the world.

It's probably foreshadowing of doom, and a new PSE pump will probably be needed in the near future. We'll see....
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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OK, I'm an idiot. My has apparently NEVER worked on my SL55 (2004).

Are you referring to the cubby behind the passenger seat? If so, how does one access the fuse?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Benz-O-Rama
I know this is an old thread, but the following is good info:



It's a 20A fuse, numbered 171 on your fuse diagram. Its located underneath the passenger side rear cubby.

My soft close trunk latch stopped working yesterday. Did the research on here, popped that fuse and reinstalled and all is well with the world.

It's probably foreshadowing of doom, and a new PSE pump will probably be needed in the near future. We'll see....
luckily things dont stack up that way... if you had to reset the pump this means it could not build pressure and timed out (3-5 run attempts at 5-10 secs each) on particular air circuit.. which means you are losing air on that particular one and the pump gave up on it. this is precisely to protect the pump from blowing or sucking air for extended periods of time into a faulty circuit

and yes, the fuse is the only 20 amp fuse behind the pass seat in the cubby. you remove the cover and the fuses are further down under- i use needle-nose pliers to remove and reinsert fuses there. unless there is an easy way which i am not aware of...
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGSport
OK, I'm an idiot. My has apparently NEVER worked on my SL55 (2004).

Are you referring to the cubby behind the passenger seat? If so, how does one access the fuse?

Thanks in advance.
Mine either. Never new I had it until my SA last spring says "do you want us to fix your soft close" and I said my what? He responded by suggesting not to fix it so i didn't.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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But if it's not working, the top won't stow, the trunk won't seal completely, and you'll get an error on the MFD. How could yours not be working, but everything else is?
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Benz-O-Rama
But if it's not working, the top won't stow, the trunk won't seal completely, and you'll get an error on the MFD. How could yours not be working, but everything else is?
separate air circuits. you have one for the trunk, one for each door lock, one for each air bag in the seats, etc. there are quite a few of them.

the pump is smart to identify which circuit is leaking and disables pumping into that one. so you can have some of them working and some of them not working and the pump ignoring the leaky ones altogether. resetting the pump fuse makes the pump forget the leaky circuits and start pumping into them again. until the next timeout and ignore if the leaky circuit is not repaired.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Benz-O-Rama
But if it's not working, the top won't stow, the trunk won't seal completely, and you'll get an error on the MFD. How could yours not be working, but everything else is?
Originally Posted by alx
separate air circuits. you have one for the trunk, one for each door lock, one for each air bag in the seats, etc. there are quite a few of them.

the pump is smart to identify which circuit is leaking and disables pumping into that one. so you can have some of them working and some of them not working and the pump ignoring the leaky ones altogether. resetting the pump fuse makes the pump forget the leaky circuits and start pumping into them again. until the next timeout and ignore if the leaky circuit is not repaired.
Yep works fine. No codes no nothing. The trunk sometimes won't close right. i have to give it just the right pressure to get it to latch properly. I always thought it had to do with the trunk opening the other way to put the top down. I must of gotten the stupid gene not knowing about that soft close. I bet it was from uncle Homer on my moms side.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by alx
separate air circuits. you have one for the trunk, one for each door lock, one for each air bag in the seats, etc. there are quite a few of them.

the pump is smart to identify which circuit is leaking and disables pumping into that one. so you can have some of them working and some of them not working and the pump ignoring the leaky ones altogether. resetting the pump fuse makes the pump forget the leaky circuits and start pumping into them again. until the next timeout and ignore if the leaky circuit is not repaired.
Makes sense. But using that logic, when my trunk circuit failed, the system should've just disabled it and let me go on my merry way, without being the wiser. However, I couldn't even close my trunk manually. It would pre-latch, but no matter what, it wouldn't fully latch. I could drive it and the trunk lid wouldn't flap around, but if it were raining, my trunk would have been soaked.

If it just disables that circuit, why are the other members above, not receiving an error in the MFD like I did? How they able to fully close their lids but I couldn't? Granted, I didn't slam it down. Is that what needed to be done?

I understand the logic, and maybe all I needed to do was slam the damn thing. But after years of closing it, with just the slightest amount of pressure, slamming it seemed like it would do harm.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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I checked the fuse and it seems good, but no soft close. I think I will simply forget I am supposed to have it and continue to close it the way I always have. Interestingly my SA has never mentioned it...and God knows they wanna fix every little thing LOL...
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGSport
I checked the fuse and it seems good, but no soft close. I think I will simply forget I am supposed to have it and continue to close it the way I always have. Interestingly my SA has never mentioned it...and God knows they wanna fix every little thing LOL...
My guess is you just need a new latch mechanism. Pretty simple DIY.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Benz-O-Rama
Makes sense. But using that logic, when my trunk circuit failed, the system should've just disabled it and let me go on my merry way, without being the wiser. However, I couldn't even close my trunk manually. It would pre-latch, but no matter what, it wouldn't fully latch. I could drive it and the trunk lid wouldn't flap around, but if it were raining, my trunk would have been soaked.

If it just disables that circuit, why are the other members above, not receiving an error in the MFD like I did? How they able to fully close their lids but I couldn't? Granted, I didn't slam it down. Is that what needed to be done?

I understand the logic, and maybe all I needed to do was slam the damn thing. But after years of closing it, with just the slightest amount of pressure, slamming it seemed like it would do harm.
My trunk closes with just gentle pressure. Anything more than that and it won't close and then I get the MFD red "trunk open" warning.

Now that you mention it, it clearly is not right and since it does not have anything to do with the drop top it is starting to bug me. I just might have to replace the latch while my SL sits in the garage for the long Milwaukee winter.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Benz-O-Rama
My guess is you just need a new latch mechanism. Pretty simple DIY.
So I assume once you replace the latch mechanism you need a pump reset...?
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGSport
So I assume once you replace the latch mechanism you need a pump reset...?
Popping that fuse out, and putting it back in, resets the system.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Benz-O-Rama
Popping that fuse out, and putting it back in, resets the system.
OK, so last night I pulled the fuse, examined it and it seemed good. Put it back in, and no soft close. I assumed another issue. Upon further thought, I REPLACED the fuse, and...soft close works.

Will it keep working? Do I have a air circuit leak that caused the fuse to blow? Who knows. But for now...it works.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGSport
OK, so last night I pulled the fuse, examined it and it seemed good. Put it back in, and no soft close. I assumed another issue. Upon further thought, I REPLACED the fuse, and...soft close works.

Will it keep working? Do I have a air circuit leak that caused the fuse to blow? Who knows. But for now...it works.
Logic says it the circuit will continue to eventually fail until the leak is fixed. Might not blow the fuse again, but will most likely disable the circuit at some point. Or who knows, maybe you don't have a leak at all, and you just tripped that fuse for some reason. Only time will tell I suppose. Glad it's working now though. Sooooooo much better, huh?
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Benz-O-Rama
Logic says it the circuit will continue to eventually fail until the leak is fixed. Might not blow the fuse again, but will most likely disable the circuit at some point. Or who knows, maybe you don't have a leak at all, and you just tripped that fuse for some reason. Only time will tell I suppose. Glad it's working now though. Sooooooo much better, huh?
Oh, I definitely agree. I don't expect it to hang in there but who knows. I lived without it for the last three years so when it goes out again no harm no foul.

On the other hand I am one of these freaks that will grind my teeth now that I know something that is supposed to work...is not
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:00 PM
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The pump logic is very forgiving. If a circuit is disabled- it means it is leaking. If you reset it it will work for a while and then will stop again. Do this a few times and you will be looking at a new pump... $700 brand new.

When it is quiet around the car reset the pump and soft close the trunk. Listen. Yu can usually hear the air wooshing in the latch area. If you don't have a warranty it is an excellent low effort weekend project.

Last edited by alx; Oct 13, 2011 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGSport
OK, so last night I pulled the fuse, examined it and it seemed good. Put it back in, and no soft close. I assumed another issue. Upon further thought, I REPLACED the fuse, and...soft close works.

Will it keep working? Do I have a air circuit leak that caused the fuse to blow? Who knows. But for now...it works.
Okay so I guess I need to replace the fuse and see if I get soft close back as well.

If it works, I am going to be pissed because I am willing to bet if I would have told my SA to fix my soft close when he asked me about it, he would have charged me up the butt as usual instead of just replacing the fuse.

Just like when my 80mm TB ate a gasket. I had just put down a snotty nosed kid in a ricer and all of a sudden no throttle. The Little ***** thought he was going to beat me to the freeway on ramp. No dice little *****. Not even close. Then I get a red warning on the MFD. something like: ESP warning go to workshop you dumb ***. The stealer pulls codes. Says TB bad. I get on the forum and in minutes I have half a dozen of my modded E55 buddies saying hahah your TB ate a gasket. easy fix. I tell the stealer to have a look at the throat of the throttle and they will most likely see a gasket stuck in it. They say no way, bad TB must replace $800 installed or whatever. I call the shop manager and told him I was on the way over. He and I walk out to my SL and have a look. Bottom line: I get charged for like three hours tech time and a $5 gasket.

Sorry about the rant! I'll blame in on the glenkinchie 12. Very nice by the way. I think my point was this forum is full of great info and has saved me tons of $$$ over the years. Thanks guys.
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 01:08 AM
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I shouldn't have read this thread! Mine just started something odd.

When I close the trunk, it does its thing. I hear it suck. But when I look at the trunk, it isn't quite closed and there is about a 2 degree angle between the trunk and the rear fender.

It almost seems like the trunk needs to be adjusted. Has anyone done this?
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 06:48 PM
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I did the fuse reset when the latch stopped working and also replaced my struts which were worn and not holding the trunk up.

The system worked 3 or 4 times and failed after the struts were replaced, but after the new struts broke in a bit, as they were quite stiff in operation, the system is working fine now....

I am wondering on how much the struts effect the total operation and tripping the fuse, in my case it seems fixed permanently.........struts were $60.......

I did hear some air release the other day, but the operation was not effected...........maybe I am on borrowed time.......

Have a warranty for another 2 years, so I using the trunk more instead of the front seat and I am opening and closing more than usual from the inside switch to see if it fails, so to speak....
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by IngenereAMG
I shouldn't have read this thread! Mine just started something odd.

When I close the trunk, it does its thing. I hear it suck. But when I look at the trunk, it isn't quite closed and there is about a 2 degree angle between the trunk and the rear fender.

It almost seems like the trunk needs to be adjusted. Has anyone done this?
yes. there are two bumpers (one on each side) that can be adjusted.

you sure there are no obstacles in the trunk around the hinges and nothing fell in there and is blocking the trunk from closing fully?
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by abiazis
I did the fuse reset when the latch stopped working and also replaced my struts which were worn and not holding the trunk up.

The system worked 3 or 4 times and failed after the struts were replaced, but after the new struts broke in a bit, as they were quite stiff in operation, the system is working fine now....

I am wondering on how much the struts effect the total operation and tripping the fuse, in my case it seems fixed permanently.........struts were $60.......

I did hear some air release the other day, but the operation was not effected...........maybe I am on borrowed time.......

Have a warranty for another 2 years, so I using the trunk more instead of the front seat and I am opening and closing more than usual from the inside switch to see if it fails, so to speak....
I also have this problem on my 04 SL55. I changed the struts, pse pump, trunk lutch (everything brand new from MB) fuse was good but I changed it anyways. Still trunk does not go up. It does open from push of the botton but trunk cover wont lift. When I lift it by hand, it drops if I hold it for 30seconds, sometimes it stays open.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 12:39 AM
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Smile Update on my trunk issue - 6 months okay

Originally Posted by abiazis
I did the fuse reset when the latch stopped working and also replaced my struts which were worn and not holding the trunk up.

The system worked 3 or 4 times and failed after the struts were replaced, but after the new struts broke in a bit, as they were quite stiff in operation, the system is working fine now....

I am wondering on how much the struts effect the total operation and tripping the fuse, in my case it seems fixed permanently.........struts were $60.......

I did hear some air release the other day, but the operation was not effected...........maybe I am on borrowed time.......

Have a warranty for another 2 years, so I using the trunk more instead of the front seat and I am opening and closing more than usual from the inside switch to see if it fails, so to speak....
Current status.....My trunk has worked fine since I replaced the struts and they broke in or seated in....works absolutely normal and fuse has not tripped anymore with closing or opening by trunk or interior switch.......operated perfectly for 6 months.........
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