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Replaced trunk struts!

 
Old 11-27-2012, 09:04 PM
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SL55 AMG & BMW F10
I bought a pair from ebay for $59 shipped!
Got them installed, works perfect.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310497475813...84.m1439.l2649
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:37 PM
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2004 SL55 AMG
Originally Posted by Karl G View Post
First and foremost: open the trunk hatch to the "service" position. This is accomplished by:

1. Actuate the "roof opening" cycle until the trunk hatch is all the way open, then *stop* so that the roof is closed, but the trunk lid is folded back.
2. "Open" the trunk lid from the tubular frame. Insert the key (yes, the key that is within the fob) into the slot adjacent to the trunk handle, and turn it 90 degrees. The trunk handle now turns into a mechanical handle for the trunk latch. Pull the handle and the trunk lid will separate from the tubular frame.
3. Once you've fully opened the trunk lid, your car should now look like a Transformer with its pants down.

Now you can easily access the top clip of that gas cylinder, and the bottom clip isn't too difficult as long as you have a flat-head screwdriver with a long shaft. *DO NOT ATTEMPT* to remove the gas cylinder without first opening the tubular frame, as you will be fighting against its fully-contracted, maximum-force position.

Karl:
Tried to do as you said above to change the shock. I got the trunk lid open without the top opening but the key would only turn about 40 degrees. I tried the key in both directions but it never went to 45 let alone 90 degrees. I put the trunk in different positions with the "flaps" closed etc but the same thing happened. Any tips?

Thanks
Perry
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by solomed View Post
Karl:
Tried to do as you said above to change the shock. I got the trunk lid open without the top opening but the key would only turn about 40 degrees. I tried the key in both directions but it never went to 45 let alone 90 degrees. I put the trunk in different positions with the "flaps" closed etc but the same thing happened. Any tips?

Thanks
Perry
I checked the service manual and it says 30 degrees counterclockwise should enable the manual function for the trunk handle. I've edited my original post to reflect this.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:40 PM
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2005 C230 Kompressor Sport and 2004 SL500
Cool

Originally Posted by Karl G View Post
Today I made a quick compilation of the gas struts/springs on a 2005 R230 SL:

Hood (2 needed)
Mercedes-Benz: A 230 880 00 29
Stabilus/Lift-O-Mat: SG403057

Trunk (2 needed)
Mercedes-Benz: A 230 750 00 36
Stabilus/Lift-O-Mat: SG403056

Tubular Frame (1 needed)
This is on the right side of the car, by the battery, opposite the hydraulic cylinder that lifts the trunk lid backwards when you retract the roof. If you care at all for the life of your Vario roof hydraulics, definitely replace this one, right around when you replace the normal trunk struts.
Mercedes-Benz: A 230 750 01 36
Stabilus/Lift-O-Mat: SG303007

Center Console Storage Bin (1 needed)
This spring holds the storage bin open. If the lid together with the upper drawer does not stay in the upright position, replace this spring.
Mercedes-Benz: A 230 980 00 64 (this part # good for ALL R230 incl. BS)
Stabilus/Lift-O-Mat: ??? (have not been able to locate an aftermarket part)

Hope this helps you all prolong the life of your R230.
How difficult is it to replace the center console spring? This has really been bugging me.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:49 PM
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07 E550, 04 SL600, 99 ML320
Excellent thread

Simple repair info for a simple mechanic. Then ask to all for the info. I was tired of getting hit in the head. Ordering per your info tonight.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:08 PM
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07 E550, 04 SL600, 99 ML320
I popped the clips off the old strut attachments since they were being tossed. With the new ones, I left the clips on and snapped them in place.

The biggest change is they do hold in place at any height. It now takes a little effort to shut the trunk.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:16 PM
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2003 SL500
Took 5 minutes

Thanks Karl for parts and instruction clarifications.

I ordered Stabilus struts from AutohausAZ, part #SG403056.
Struts were $42.87 each with free shipping. This was slightly cheaper than Amazon, but only by a couple of dollars.

Autohaus AZ did not have the strut for the roof mechanism (Stabilus SG303007), so I ordered one from Amazon (fulfulled by Auto Barn) for $58.95 + $7.95 shipping.

The tubular frame strut for the roof was the most difficult, only because of access. The bottom is by the battery in the trunk. I almost couldn't locate it at first - it literally is just on the other side (opposite) of the hydraulic cylinder on the right side next to the trunk latch that begins the roof open/close sequence.

Definitely get a broomstick or other implement to prop the trunk lid - even with one strut still on it is not enough to hold it up.

Last edited by jnice72; 03-08-2013 at 05:18 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:48 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Karl G View Post
I have figured out an alternative. You can order a 30lb gas spring from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com), part number 9416K302, and an eyelet for the body end, p/n 9424K14, for about $20 + shipping. These together replace A 230 980 00 64. Dealer price is $60-$70 for the same part.
Thank you so much for posting this link!!!! Exact match for the $180.00 MB dealer repair quote for my '07 SL55. $19.92 + shipping. New part # is 9416K11. Thank you Karl G!!
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:05 AM
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2003 SL55,2017 GTS
Center console

Center Console Lift supports number is PM1065
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:44 AM
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Trunk strut replacement SL500

How do you remove the retaining ring to allow removal of the old strut?
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Old 12-01-2014, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gatesdad View Post
How do you remove the retaining ring to allow removal of the old strut?
Just get a flat head screwdriver under there and pry them off.
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Old 12-02-2014, 01:04 AM
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I have had to replace my trunk struts 3 or 4 times since '03. You would think that these could be engineered to be more durable. Thankfully its an easy fix.
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:54 PM
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2004 SL55 AMG
hi all, i just followed the instructions for replacement for all 3 of the struts. worked to a "T". thanks KarlG and others took me 5 minutes for all 3. My problem is now that they are replaced I let the tubular strut assembly slide back into the "down position". Although it is not latched all the way and the wings are still out. I tried to see if the vario roof control would maybe rectify the situation but it says close trunk on the screen or roof actuation in progress. if any of you have run into this please let me know what to do. I can attach pictures if needed.
Thanks for the help. Bob
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Old 05-18-2016, 01:19 PM
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CLK55 AMG
Smile CLK 55 AMG Convertible (2005)

I am so happy to have found this sight. I know little to nothing about car repair. I was repeatedly getting the "trunk partition" message and found this sight. It showed me how to find the sensor switch. I checked that it wasn't being pressed in all the way and realized that the canopy had a little too much slack in it. This made me realize the gas strut had gone bad. I took the part number off of the gas strut (in case you have the same year/model car, it is: 209-690-00-59) and ordered it from RMEuropean - it was only $21.70! The Mercedes dealership told me it was $140, that i'd need two, so that would have been $280 plus $250 to install. INSANE. The part arrived today and I switched it out no problem. I used a flathead screwdriver to pull it off and popped the new one in in less than a minute. The top works great again and my husband thinks I'm a superstar. Thanks so much and thank you so much for posting about this.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:38 PM
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2007 SL55
I have been driving my car more with the better weather lately. When opening the trunk, it will sometimes open about 3/4 of the way and stop - it seems that there is too much effort to open. I can push it all the way up and it stays. It closes fine.

Also, it appears that when I put the convertible top down, the trunk opens slower than I last remembered, showing more effort in the movement.

Otherwise, the trunk mechanism works ok.

Is this a tell tale sign of a shock issue? trunk/top motor?

TIA

Last edited by Nor Cal SL55; 03-15-2017 at 09:44 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:22 PM
  #41  
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:47 PM
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When my top opens, the trunk seems to fly back and "hit hard" when it is at the final position. I look at other people's trunk when it opens and it just appears to be smoother than mine. Struts as well?

Cheers!

Shaun
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:02 PM
  #43  
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Looking more closely at the lift strut shocks now, I am seeing some oil at the end of one of the trunk struts. Thought it might be lubricant from the shock ball joint, but the convertible top mechanisms haven't been serviced in some time. It's got to be a leak.

At the top 1/4 of the trunk opening the shocks will hold the trunk in place. 3/4 and down, the trunk will not hold at any given point when I operate the trunk manually.

I'm gonna replace the struts and also make sure the convertible top is serviced.



Shaun, it looks like there is a stop sensor on the drivers side motor strut. maybe your is loose? It kind of just snaps into place - see attached pictures
Attached Thumbnails Replaced trunk struts!-img_3086.jpg   Replaced trunk struts!-img_3087.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2017, 10:27 AM
  #44  
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All my cars are blown! '11 E350 Diesel P2 Sport; '03 SL55 AMG Pano
There is one more gas strut not mentioned here. It is for the hinged portion of the rear shelf. If this strut goes bad, the roof hangs up on the hinged portion when closing the Vario Roof. #11 in the picture.

Part is 230 790 00 79, or Stabilus 192848, with a whopping 11 pounds of force (50 N). It's only about $10 in Germany, but by the time it is shipped to USA, the best price I found was $65.53 shipped from www.mbpartsdelivered.com
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Old 03-07-2018, 05:45 PM
  #45  
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Just ordered the trunk lift struts from Autohaus AZ. They have both the lid support SG403056 and the Tubular Lift Arm support SG303007 - this one is P/N SS-2307500136 Stabilus in the catalog.
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:03 AM
  #46  
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1966 W113 230SL 2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Selling the W113.
I found (I hope) the part number for the center armrest strut: Stabilus 6408PN 0140N. At least that is what it seems to be in Europe.
Delivery is going to take a long time. Will confirm correct fitting (or not) when in. Hope exchanging the part is as simple as said here!

IngenereAMG and all: the sweet taste of low cost is long gone when the sour taste of poor quality lingers on.... sometimes MB prices are unacceptably high, but a portion of the after market products is just sub standard.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:05 AM
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1966 W113 230SL 2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Selling the W113.
Tension build up

Had to try Karl G.’s ‘double opening up’ trick with the trunk lid. Glad I did. An MB dealer readjusted the lid for me, because the front end corner would collide with the rear shelf when closing the lid with the roof open. The trunk lid would climb up over the rear shelf, but I could see it struggle. A collision more than a slide over. Somehow they fixed that.
As another side job they topped up the hydraulic pump for me (had been sitting on the minimum level for months).
After picking the car up I noticed that the roof had become very slow. Just over 30 seconds. Found out that especially the reverse opening of the trunk lid would take forever. Had some discussion on this forum of possible air bubbles in the hydraulics.

To visually check the third gas spring I did the ‘double opening trick’ again. Noticed that the lock released an enormous tension, the lid kind of broke free, when manually unlocked. Pushing the lid back into the lock (tube frame still in reverse opened position) took an unhealthy amount of force.

Of course I suspect the enormous build up so much tension is taking it’s toll from the pump and cilinders. This and the operation suddenly becoming so slow must have to do with the readjustment made by the dealer.

Any ideas?

Last edited by Frederick NL; 09-04-2018 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Typing errot
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:57 AM
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1966 W113 230SL 2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Selling the W113.


Adjustable boot lid stopper.


Where the boot lid collided to the rear shelf
Adding to my post above: I seem to understand that the boot lid, when closed, pivots over 3 points (beside the rubber strips, that is). 1 would be the lock&bracket at the back, and 2 and 3 would be the adjustable stoppers on the hinges (photo). Way before the problem started, I did take out the lock bracket when I removed the plastic rear boot panel. The lock bracket can be installed with fine adjustments, so I may have made an unintended minute change there (at the time I fixed the lock and the soft close works fine now).
As for the two stoppers, I think the MB dealer adjusted those up a little, to align the lid with the rear shelf (I had the lid sort of colliding with the shelf (photo) when the roof is open).

I don't see any misalignment between the lid, fenders, tail lamps or rear bumper, so no clear clues there.
How/where do I start adjusting the lid and/or the rear shelf, getting rid of this enormous tension build up?

Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2018, 04:52 AM
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1966 W113 230SL 2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Selling the W113.
Anyone....?
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:36 PM
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1966 W113 230SL 2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Selling the W113.
[QUOTE=Frederick NL;7525533]I found (I hope) the part number for the center armrest strut: Stabilus 6408PN 0140N. At least that is what it seems to be in Europe.
Delivery is going to take a long time. Will confirm correct fitting (or not) when in. Hope exchanging the part is as simple as said here! ]

Quoting myself.... seems a silly thing to do, but the strut I ordered is the exact product that was in there. Replacement is simple enough and wow - that armrest sure has a positive urge now, to come up and stay up.
- unscrew the 2 screws in the back of the lower compartment
- lift the rear center piece, in between the lids of the two rear storage bins
- there's your gas spring. Help the arm rest stay up (cheer up, it's the last time you need to) to extend the strut to the max
- unclip the pin that holds the spring at the eye (I made very sure the clip didn't fly away), the pin comes out easily
- the piston has a few mm's of travel left, so it will want to pop out either way- make it pop up, not down (easilly done)
- unscrew the end of the piston rod from the car's socket (I for me didn't know about this, took me so time to find out)
- the rest is the obvious reverse.
Note: wrestle with the new piston, against the pressure, a few times. You'll may find it sticks at first, and in the car, it takes quite some force to get the eye aligned for the pin. I used a screwdriver as a lever to push it into place.

15 min job, worth it.

Last edited by Frederick NL; 10-09-2018 at 04:41 PM.
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