SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: R230 side trim replacement DIY
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 85
From: Central WI (BFE)
SL55, ML500 & Acura TL
R230 side trim replacement DIY
Delamination of the rear window side trim covers seems to be a common problem for all R230s. The dealer will charge somewhere between $300 to $400 or more to replace the side trim. Replacing the side trim is simple and requires no special tools. This coupled with the high cost of dealer replacement makes for a perfect DIY project.
If your trim looks like the part in the foreground, this DIY is for you.
The trim pieces can be purchased from a number of online sources or your local dealer. I bought the parts through GetMercedesParts.com. Each trim piece cost $51.00. With shipping, (to Indianapolis) the total cost was $113.32. Below are the part numbers
Trim cover left: 2307920330
Trim cover right: 2307920430
I would assume the trim is the same for all R230 model years, but keying in your VIN on the parts store website will insure you get the right parts. Another way to find the trim is to click through Retractable top, Top and components, trim cover, Trim cover left (then right).
Step one is removing the old trim. The trim is held in place by a series of plastic tabs on the back which lock into metals slots that are fastened to the side window area. The trim must be moved about an inch or so down (toward the trunk) to unlock from the metal slots.
I first tried to grab the base of the trim with a pair of vise grips and pull down. It did not feel like the trim wanted to release. I then slid my fingers under the edges of the trim and gently lifted. I felt the part begin to release so carefully continued the process. I noticed that I could carefully snap a few of the tabs (break them) by doing this. This is not a problem for the old part. The trim was then loose enough to slide down and unlock.
The second trim piece came off much easier. I simply pushed in on the trim with the palms of both hands while attempting to slide down toward the trunk. I felt the part move slightly so carefully continued the process until the tabs cleared the slots and released.
It appears that removing every piece can be just a bit different. Some will come off as easily as my second piece and others might be more of a beotch to remove. You might have to tap on the top of the trim, pull from the bottom with vise grips or lift and pry from the sides. If all else fails, it looks as if you can safely lift the trim enough to snap many of the plastic tabs off. The slots are metal and quite sturdy so it is doubtful they could be damaged. My word of caution is to be careful not to inadvertently damage another part of the car while attempting to pry off the trim.
Below you can see the mounting slots for the trim piece. Notice the foam stuff. It is sticky like double sided adhesive on foam weather stripping.
Before you install the new trim, take a minute and have a look at the mounting area and specifically, the mounting slots. Make sure there is no debris or possibly broken tabs from the old trim in or around the slots that could hamper the new install. I pulled out my shop vac and cleaned the area well to make sure.
Inspect the slots carefully. I found one that was bent down. I am not sure if I did it or if it was always that way. My guess is the later. I used a flat screw driver to gently pry the slot back into proper position.
(see tab on the left)
Once everything looks good, mount the new trim. Start with the trim about an inch below its installed position. Carefully slide the trim toward the top of the roof while putting downward pressure on the trim with both hands spread across the part to insure all of the tabs lock into the slots. You just have to feel this one a bit. Take your time being certain all of the tabs are sliding into the slots. You can tell by feel. It will be obvious when the trim has locked up into the installed position.
If some of the tabs did not seat properly, carefully slide the new trim back down and try to re-seat. Patients and caution will pay off.
The results:
This is an easy straight forward DIY. You will be happy with the results. I am not sure why I did not do it a long time ago.
If your trim looks like the part in the foreground, this DIY is for you.
The trim pieces can be purchased from a number of online sources or your local dealer. I bought the parts through GetMercedesParts.com. Each trim piece cost $51.00. With shipping, (to Indianapolis) the total cost was $113.32. Below are the part numbers
Trim cover left: 2307920330
Trim cover right: 2307920430
I would assume the trim is the same for all R230 model years, but keying in your VIN on the parts store website will insure you get the right parts. Another way to find the trim is to click through Retractable top, Top and components, trim cover, Trim cover left (then right).
Step one is removing the old trim. The trim is held in place by a series of plastic tabs on the back which lock into metals slots that are fastened to the side window area. The trim must be moved about an inch or so down (toward the trunk) to unlock from the metal slots.
I first tried to grab the base of the trim with a pair of vise grips and pull down. It did not feel like the trim wanted to release. I then slid my fingers under the edges of the trim and gently lifted. I felt the part begin to release so carefully continued the process. I noticed that I could carefully snap a few of the tabs (break them) by doing this. This is not a problem for the old part. The trim was then loose enough to slide down and unlock.
The second trim piece came off much easier. I simply pushed in on the trim with the palms of both hands while attempting to slide down toward the trunk. I felt the part move slightly so carefully continued the process until the tabs cleared the slots and released.
It appears that removing every piece can be just a bit different. Some will come off as easily as my second piece and others might be more of a beotch to remove. You might have to tap on the top of the trim, pull from the bottom with vise grips or lift and pry from the sides. If all else fails, it looks as if you can safely lift the trim enough to snap many of the plastic tabs off. The slots are metal and quite sturdy so it is doubtful they could be damaged. My word of caution is to be careful not to inadvertently damage another part of the car while attempting to pry off the trim.
Below you can see the mounting slots for the trim piece. Notice the foam stuff. It is sticky like double sided adhesive on foam weather stripping.
Before you install the new trim, take a minute and have a look at the mounting area and specifically, the mounting slots. Make sure there is no debris or possibly broken tabs from the old trim in or around the slots that could hamper the new install. I pulled out my shop vac and cleaned the area well to make sure.
Inspect the slots carefully. I found one that was bent down. I am not sure if I did it or if it was always that way. My guess is the later. I used a flat screw driver to gently pry the slot back into proper position.
(see tab on the left)
Once everything looks good, mount the new trim. Start with the trim about an inch below its installed position. Carefully slide the trim toward the top of the roof while putting downward pressure on the trim with both hands spread across the part to insure all of the tabs lock into the slots. You just have to feel this one a bit. Take your time being certain all of the tabs are sliding into the slots. You can tell by feel. It will be obvious when the trim has locked up into the installed position.
If some of the tabs did not seat properly, carefully slide the new trim back down and try to re-seat. Patients and caution will pay off.
The results:
This is an easy straight forward DIY. You will be happy with the results. I am not sure why I did not do it a long time ago.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 85
From: Central WI (BFE)
SL55, ML500 & Acura TL
Trending Topics
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, NE
2005 SL600, 2016 ES300h, 2012 Hayabusa
I need to look over some of my seals, passenger side appears to leak just a bit, hoping to get that figured out, and the top of my trim is starting to discolor, good write up.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 85
From: Central WI (BFE)
SL55, ML500 & Acura TL
Did you check GetMercedesParts.com? Each trim piece cost $51.00. With shipping, (to Indianapolis) the total cost was $113.32. Below are the part numbers
Trim cover left: 2307920330
Trim cover right: 2307920430
Trim cover left: 2307920330
Trim cover right: 2307920430
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 211
Likes: 1
From: SF Bay Area
2001 Lamborghini Diablo, 2009 SL65 (sold), 1998 CL600 (sold), 1989 560SEL (sold)
How many people put wax and/or sealant on this part of the car? It looks like glass but in reality its clear-coat paint.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2005 SL55
Thanks for the pictures and directions. Just finished this myself and it looks great. One tip. To remove the old ones, it helps to pry it up a bit about 2/3 of the way up on the glass side. (There is a white dot/hole along the edge in the picture.) That is where a plastic locking piece sets into the frame and it has to either be out of that hole, or break off in order to get the old one out.
And if you have to readjust the new one, you won't want to break off the piece that locks it into place.
And if you have to readjust the new one, you won't want to break off the piece that locks it into place.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Newport Beach, CA
2003 Sl55 1995 C36
Thanks for the pictures and directions. Just finished this myself and it looks great. One tip. To remove the old ones, it helps to pry it up a bit about 2/3 of the way up on the glass side. (There is a white dot/hole along the edge in the picture.) That is where a plastic locking piece sets into the frame and it has to either be out of that hole, or break off in order to get the old one out.
And if you have to readjust the new one, you won't want to break off the piece that locks it into place.
And if you have to readjust the new one, you won't want to break off the piece that locks it into place.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 2
From: NW FLA
03 SL500, 07 S550, 92 500SEL
Just finished this myself using the very good info. I had a couple points to add. While looking at the new part I noticed the slides that hook into the roof line but also a small nub that actually latches the trim in place. Conversely when removing my old ones I used a small plastic trim tool applied right where the little white dot appears in you photos. It is on the side next to the rear window about a third of the way down. Gently popping up the old trim at this spot made sliding it down much easier. Once I had all the little bits cleared out of the I tried to slide it in from the bottom while applying lots of down force around the sides of the new trim piece. I found that running the top half way down and then proping it open with an empty cardboard box made reinstallation of the trim piece a lot easier as when the top starts to go down the lower edge of the seals swing away offering better access. you have to be careful because once you stop applying power the top will try to flop up or down based on its' balance point. If you try to grab it or stick your hand in there you are going to get hurt. Safety first! The other thing I noticed is it is quite easy to miss some of tabs when putting the trim back on. running your hand from top to bottom on each side will reveal whether you have caught them all. If not pry up a little on the nub area and start over. I used a small toothpaste size dob of clear silicone sealant to give the new piece a little more connection to the roof.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 876
Likes: 41
From: ST. Louis, MO
'16 SL550, '18 Porsche Macan GTS
Has anyone tried to use a black vinyl wrap over the old part? Seems like that would be even easier than replacing. Hmmmm, maybe even wrap with carbon fiber vinyl.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 85
From: Central WI (BFE)
SL55, ML500 & Acura TL
I don't see why it would not work. You would obviously want to remove the trim piece before you wrapped it and there in lies the biggest challenge. It is pretty easy to break some of the plastic tabs when removing the old trim piece. You would just have to be very careful to work the part slowly down toward the truck to release all of the tabs. It seems like a friend could really help out so you would have four hands spread across the entire part, push in on the part and slight downward force toward the trunk at the same time. You can actually feel the tabs release.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 2
From: NW FLA
03 SL500, 07 S550, 92 500SEL
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 2
From: NW FLA
03 SL500, 07 S550, 92 500SEL
Roger that!!!
I don't see why it would not work. You would obviously want to remove the trim piece before you wrapped it and there in lies the biggest challenge. It is pretty easy to break some of the plastic tabs when removing the old trim piece. You would just have to be very careful to work the part slowly down toward the truck to release all of the tabs. It seems like a friend could really help out so you would have four hands spread across the entire part, push in on the part and slight downward force toward the trunk at the same time. You can actually feel the tabs release.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 85
From: Central WI (BFE)
SL55, ML500 & Acura TL
If the trim needs replacing it has already changed composition. Most all my tabs were broken and I even popped the little nub out like I said. Liked the comments about the free market... I like to say take every penny in the whole world and equally divide it amongst every man woman and child. How long would it take to have rich people and poor people again???? Answer: Not very long
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
2005 SL-65 2002 M3
Very nice post Cal1. One thing I could add is there is a locking tab that makes pulling it off more difficult unless you release it. If you look at the new pieces, you will see a pencil eraser size plastic bump. It's about 10"s down on the glass side. I wedged a nylon door clip removing tool just under the panel to raise the bump out of the notch. The second side I removed was much easier. Hope this helps.
