SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: My "TITANIC" CUSTOM 3" Hubcentric Aluminum Spacers came in mail!!
01-07-2012, 03:05 PM
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My "TITANIC" CUSTOM 3" Hubcentric Aluminum Spacers came in mail!!
They'll allow my CLK 320 16x7 12.8 lb wheels to fit near flush on my giant MishaDesigns wheel wells. These spacers are works of art! 3" thick! ONLY weigh additional 1.5 lbs each 
Sooo just a few more parts coming from Speedriven & I'll Tow my bucket up to Sacramento!
(just had passenger side Coil-Packs replaced, they found a few other problems faulty Throttle censor, & fans weren't coming on soon enough, brake flush, coolant flush/bleed/ gotta LOVE that Warranty
then I discovered the K&N style cone filters I was using on TTM CAI were collapsing in on themselves like a Submarine imploding @ great depths of water. I reworked ENTIRE CAI setup w/new Foam airfilters actually using Single tubes vs quad setup, the SL was def starving for Cold air w/quads/ difference after ALL this work was dramatic to say the least (NO dyno's, they'll be coming shortly OE/Jeremy will be tuning her for 109-Q16 (Cats are gone now
)
Noteworthy I befriended the MB-Master-mechanic, he drove her AFTER all this work, I let him drive while I rode shotgun, he literally freaked! He's driven new SLS/regular SLR non 722 model/SL65 black series & everything in between inc new CLS63 biturbo w/PP, a modded CLK63 Black series, he doesn't
tells it like it is, IE when I brought her in he noted the power wasn't where it should be, they had MANY questions on what was going on w/car before said repairs.
After few full throttle blasts he said it was by far the fastest MB he's ever personally driven, his ear to ear grin was priceless!
He espescially liked the Speedriven TCU-TQ limiter REMOVAL & had plethora of Questions on the aftermarket tune from OE Tuning, we hooked up lap-top during testdrive & boost was 22 lbs thru 4600 rpm's then dropped off to 16-17 psi to redline & noted how quickly Turbo's spooled w/New CAI.. It was great getting an impartial opinion on the overall perf vs ALL the other top model MB's he's worked on & driven extensively (though the true litmus test will be 1/4 mile obviously) All this on 91 octane tune, I filled her up w/100 octane during this testing (we didn't use ANY ice in reserervoir, it was nice & cold outside 46 degrees) my last Dyno was w/100 oct & res-tank filled w/Ice 633 rwp & 800+ rwtq
I'll be seeing a lot more HP/TQ after Jeremy tunes her for Q-16 as it's heavily Oxygenated, & the unsprung weight advantages will be EPIC, the current 20" RENNEN-FORGED wheels on SL now are 20x10 frnt 20x13 rr rears easily weigh 70+ lbs ea including 345/25 tires, my CLK/Hoosier setup weighs 33 lbs + 1.5 lb spacers so LESS than half (1) of current street wheels, I'll shave 72 lbs UNSPRUNG weight off rears alone
Pix of new spacers, new cai pix coming..
Sooo just a few more parts coming from Speedriven & I'll Tow my bucket up to Sacramento!(just had passenger side Coil-Packs replaced, they found a few other problems faulty Throttle censor, & fans weren't coming on soon enough, brake flush, coolant flush/bleed/ gotta LOVE that Warranty
then I discovered the K&N style cone filters I was using on TTM CAI were collapsing in on themselves like a Submarine imploding @ great depths of water. I reworked ENTIRE CAI setup w/new Foam airfilters actually using Single tubes vs quad setup, the SL was def starving for Cold air w/quads/ difference after ALL this work was dramatic to say the least (NO dyno's, they'll be coming shortly OE/Jeremy will be tuning her for 109-Q16 (Cats are gone now)Noteworthy I befriended the MB-Master-mechanic, he drove her AFTER all this work, I let him drive while I rode shotgun, he literally freaked! He's driven new SLS/regular SLR non 722 model/SL65 black series & everything in between inc new CLS63 biturbo w/PP, a modded CLK63 Black series, he doesn't
tells it like it is, IE when I brought her in he noted the power wasn't where it should be, they had MANY questions on what was going on w/car before said repairs. After few full throttle blasts he said it was by far the fastest MB he's ever personally driven, his ear to ear grin was priceless!
He espescially liked the Speedriven TCU-TQ limiter REMOVAL & had plethora of Questions on the aftermarket tune from OE Tuning, we hooked up lap-top during testdrive & boost was 22 lbs thru 4600 rpm's then dropped off to 16-17 psi to redline & noted how quickly Turbo's spooled w/New CAI.. It was great getting an impartial opinion on the overall perf vs ALL the other top model MB's he's worked on & driven extensively (though the true litmus test will be 1/4 mile obviously) All this on 91 octane tune, I filled her up w/100 octane during this testing (we didn't use ANY ice in reserervoir, it was nice & cold outside 46 degrees) my last Dyno was w/100 oct & res-tank filled w/Ice 633 rwp & 800+ rwtq
I'll be seeing a lot more HP/TQ after Jeremy tunes her for Q-16 as it's heavily Oxygenated, & the unsprung weight advantages will be EPIC, the current 20" RENNEN-FORGED wheels on SL now are 20x10 frnt 20x13 rr rears easily weigh 70+ lbs ea including 345/25 tires, my CLK/Hoosier setup weighs 33 lbs + 1.5 lb spacers so LESS than half (1) of current street wheels, I'll shave 72 lbs UNSPRUNG weight off rears alone
Pix of new spacers, new cai pix coming..
Last edited by Thericker; 01-07-2012 at 03:14 PM.
01-07-2012, 08:21 PM
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Naa if something was to break it'd popp'd months ago after installing these gigantic Extreme Concaves 20x13 on 345/25 rubba' but I've run way larger wheels/tires on trucks 44"x16.50" Super Swampers on Weld racing 17"x15"& never had any problems knock on wood
(I know SL drivetrain is completely different than my Ford F-250, but it also was NEVER meant to run such enormous sneakkers etc) though if I snap a half shaft or diff etc I'll just replace it w/something even stronger...
Wait'll you guys see the Drive-Shaft I'm having custom made it'll handle up to 2500 HP/TQ perf for my upcoming GT3582r's w/custom Tial inlet/outlet wheels Garrett states they can easily make 750 HP per side..
(I know SL drivetrain is completely different than my Ford F-250, but it also was NEVER meant to run such enormous sneakkers etc) though if I snap a half shaft or diff etc I'll just replace it w/something even stronger...Wait'll you guys see the Drive-Shaft I'm having custom made
it'll handle up to 2500 HP/TQ perf for my upcoming GT3582r's w/custom Tial inlet/outlet wheels Garrett states they can easily make 750 HP per side..
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01-09-2012, 02:22 PM
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Thanks gents!
Actually quite competetive, my original H&R 25-30mm pair cost $250.00 if memory serves.
These beauty's that include pressed in lugs/studs only cost $160.00 ea ie $320.00 delivered FedEx
So for a mere $70.00 more you can buy these @ ANY size between 10mm up to FULL 3" & ANY lug pattern 5-6 etc ANY stud sizing 5-112 5-114 whatever make/model car they have ALL OEM stats in computer & Hubcentric! + weigh near nothing for such extreme sizing...
2 week build time, ask for Doug, US Wheel Adapters, (303) 343-1631 Absolutely stellar Customer Service..
These beauty's that include pressed in lugs/studs only cost $160.00 ea ie $320.00 delivered FedEx
So for a mere $70.00 more you can buy these @ ANY size between 10mm up to FULL 3" & ANY lug pattern 5-6 etc ANY stud sizing 5-112 5-114 whatever make/model car they have ALL OEM stats in computer & Hubcentric! + weigh near nothing for such extreme sizing...
2 week build time, ask for Doug, US Wheel Adapters, (303) 343-1631 Absolutely stellar Customer Service..
Last edited by Thericker; 01-09-2012 at 02:24 PM.
01-09-2012, 03:38 PM
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2008 SL65, 2006 SLK55(sold)
Ricker, I have followed your build thread for as long as I have been on this board (which isn't all that long by most standards) and am amazed at how far you are going with your SL 600....you are letting no stone unturned and nothing stand in your way to build exactly what you want.
Now for my stupid question. (You had to know there was one coming) You said with your new spacers you were putting on 16x7 wheels. I understand the 16 inch rim for weight but not the 7 inch width. I am not questioning your knowledge because you obviously know what you are doing. I would have thought wider would be better but I honestly don't know and am trying to learn something here. Like you, I used to run offroad in my younger days and I ran a IH scout with a 350V8 and Dick Cepek Tires that looked like something like tractor tires(yeah did tractor pulling too); tall and narrow, trying to gain pound per square inch on contact area. Can't remember the size and model but they were on 15 inch rims. Something like 38 inch tall and no more than 10 inch wide but that was because we wanted to get down to terra firma at the bottom of the mud pit. I thought width was a plus for asphalt traction, so 7 inch didn't seem like enough to me to harness all that HP. So I had to ask at the risk of looking like a fool. Where am I going wrong?
Now for my stupid question. (You had to know there was one coming) You said with your new spacers you were putting on 16x7 wheels. I understand the 16 inch rim for weight but not the 7 inch width. I am not questioning your knowledge because you obviously know what you are doing. I would have thought wider would be better but I honestly don't know and am trying to learn something here. Like you, I used to run offroad in my younger days and I ran a IH scout with a 350V8 and Dick Cepek Tires that looked like something like tractor tires(yeah did tractor pulling too); tall and narrow, trying to gain pound per square inch on contact area. Can't remember the size and model but they were on 15 inch rims. Something like 38 inch tall and no more than 10 inch wide but that was because we wanted to get down to terra firma at the bottom of the mud pit. I thought width was a plus for asphalt traction, so 7 inch didn't seem like enough to me to harness all that HP. So I had to ask at the risk of looking like a fool. Where am I going wrong?
01-09-2012, 05:04 PM
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Ricker, I have followed your build thread for as long as I have been on this board (which isn't all that long by most standards) and am amazed at how far you are going with your SL 600....you are letting no stone unturned and nothing stand in your way to build exactly what you want. Now for my stupid question. (You had to know there was one coming) You said with your new spacers you were putting on 16x7 wheels. I understand the 16 inch rim for weight but not the 7 inch width. I am not questioning your knowledge because you obviously know what you are doing. I would have thought wider would be better but I honestly don't know and am trying to learn something here. Like you, I used to run offroad in my younger days and I ran a IH scout with a 350V8 and Dick Cepek Tires that looked like something like tractor tires(yeah did tractor pulling too); tall and narrow, trying to gain pound per square inch on contact area. Can't remember the size and model but they were on 15 inch rims. Something like 38 inch tall and no more than 10 inch wide but that was because we wanted to get down to terra firma at the bottom of the mud pit. I thought width was a plus for asphalt traction, so 7 inch didn't seem like enough to me to harness all that HP. So I had to ask at the risk of looking like a fool. Where am I going wrong?
Now for my stupid question. (You had to know there was one coming) You said with your new spacers you were putting on 16x7 wheels. I understand the 16 inch rim for weight but not the 7 inch width. I am not questioning your knowledge because you obviously know what you are doing. I would have thought wider would be better but I honestly don't know and am trying to learn something here. Like you, I used to run offroad in my younger days and I ran a IH scout with a 350V8 and Dick Cepek Tires that looked like something like tractor tires(yeah did tractor pulling too); tall and narrow, trying to gain pound per square inch on contact area. Can't remember the size and model but they were on 15 inch rims. Something like 38 inch tall and no more than 10 inch wide but that was because we wanted to get down to terra firma at the bottom of the mud pit. I thought width was a plus for asphalt traction, so 7 inch didn't seem like enough to me to harness all that HP. So I had to ask at the risk of looking like a fool. Where am I going wrong?
Even seen Traction light blinking @ night in this cold winter air @ 85 mph when punching thrtl on frwy etc, tires have FULL tread Invito's are very tough to wear out as you can imagine I've been abusing them every chance I get (I'll snap a pic' of the tread & post here)
Now this is why width = squat on my STREET setup 345's the center # ie 345/25/20 (25) is the Aspect Ratio or thickness of actual Side Wall, that's where you want to go as LARGE as possible to attain max traction. It harkens back to your Tall mudd boggers if you had a much shorter side wall you would get stuck very quickly.
My clk320 wheels being ONLY 7" wide is fine @ my current power level, as the Aspect Ratio/Sidewall is /50/ vs /25/ on street setup, IE Hoosier tires on clk wheels measure 255/50/16 perfect for Sidewall flex vs hard/thin rubber band effect on 345/25/20 tires
If I could stuff 345/40/20 tires I would but then you have to keep BOTH front & rear tires overall height very close (ECU will freak out thinking traction is lost due to over or under sized tires/wheels mismatched, MOST importantly you want to keep within OEM stock wheel/tire HEIGHT I believe it's 26.9"-26.8" based on STOCK wheels @ 18" diameter)
Reason being the TALLER you stray away from stock wheel/tire height on ANY vehicle effects the GEARING negatively IE it raises the overall gear ratio making your car SLOWER, MB already has very TALL gearing on 55k/600/65 platforms 2:65 gearing made for Autobaun storming & to offset the EXTREME off the line Torque these MB's put out even in stock form. (I'm certain you noticed how slow your Truck accelerated w/38"-40" tires vs stock @ 30"-32" tall tires)
Once I get bigger Turbo's I'll def need to go WIDER as 1000+ rwhp will need a 335/40 tire & new set of custom wheels prolly CCW 16x12's
I ran the clk320 wheels around streets about a year ago, the acceleration was flat intoxicating, yes the ESP still blinked but just for a blip between gears. It was dead hooking on street the sidewalls were wrinkling like a hound dog according to my buddies watching me peal away from stoplights etc..
Last edited by Thericker; 01-09-2012 at 05:13 PM.
01-09-2012, 06:11 PM
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NOT dumb Question whatsoever, 1st for looks & my street application I went WIDE 20x13 on 345/25/20 tires, looks cool but basically too heavy, & ZERO traction esp w/800+ rwtq IE I can do rolling burnouts @ 60+ mph totally kick rear sideways begin fishtailing & roll into a full blown smoke out
Even seen Traction light blinking @ night in this cold winter air @ 85 mph when punching thrtl on frwy etc, tires have FULL tread Invito's are very tough to wear out as you can imagine I've been abusing them every chance I get (I'll snap a pic' of the tread & post here)
Now this is why width = squat on my STREET setup 345's the center # ie 345/25/20 (25) is the Aspect Ratio or thickness of actual Side Wall, that's where you want to go as LARGE as possible to attain max traction. It harkens back to your Tall mudd boggers if you had a much shorter side wall you would get stuck very quickly.
My clk320 wheels being ONLY 7" wide is fine @ my current power level, as the Aspect Ratio/Sidewall is /50/ vs /25/ on street setup, IE Hoosier tires on clk wheels measure 255/50/16 perfect for Sidewall flex vs hard/thin rubber band effect on 345/25/20 tires
If I could stuff 345/40/20 tires I would but then you have to keep BOTH front & rear tires overall height very close (ECU will freak out thinking traction is lost due to over or under sized tires/wheels mismatched, MOST importantly you want to keep within OEM stock wheel/tire HEIGHT I believe it's 26.9"-26.8" based on STOCK wheels @ 18" diameter)
Reason being the TALLER you stray away from stock wheel/tire height on ANY vehicle effects the GEARING negatively IE it raises the overall gear ratio making your car SLOWER, MB already has very TALL gearing on 55k/600/65 platforms 2:65 gearing made for Autobaun storming & to offset the EXTREME off the line Torque these MB's put out even in stock form. (I'm certain you noticed how slow your Truck accelerated w/38"-40" tires vs stock @ 30"-32" tall tires)
Once I get bigger Turbo's I'll def need to go WIDER as 1000+ rwhp will need a 335/40 tire & new set of custom wheels prolly CCW 16x12's
I ran the clk320 wheels around streets about a year ago, the acceleration was flat intoxicating, yes the ESP still blinked but just for a blip between gears. It was dead hooking on street the sidewalls were wrinkling like a hound dog according to my buddies watching me peal away from stoplights etc..
Even seen Traction light blinking @ night in this cold winter air @ 85 mph when punching thrtl on frwy etc, tires have FULL tread Invito's are very tough to wear out as you can imagine I've been abusing them every chance I get (I'll snap a pic' of the tread & post here)
Now this is why width = squat on my STREET setup 345's the center # ie 345/25/20 (25) is the Aspect Ratio or thickness of actual Side Wall, that's where you want to go as LARGE as possible to attain max traction. It harkens back to your Tall mudd boggers if you had a much shorter side wall you would get stuck very quickly.
My clk320 wheels being ONLY 7" wide is fine @ my current power level, as the Aspect Ratio/Sidewall is /50/ vs /25/ on street setup, IE Hoosier tires on clk wheels measure 255/50/16 perfect for Sidewall flex vs hard/thin rubber band effect on 345/25/20 tires
If I could stuff 345/40/20 tires I would but then you have to keep BOTH front & rear tires overall height very close (ECU will freak out thinking traction is lost due to over or under sized tires/wheels mismatched, MOST importantly you want to keep within OEM stock wheel/tire HEIGHT I believe it's 26.9"-26.8" based on STOCK wheels @ 18" diameter)
Reason being the TALLER you stray away from stock wheel/tire height on ANY vehicle effects the GEARING negatively IE it raises the overall gear ratio making your car SLOWER, MB already has very TALL gearing on 55k/600/65 platforms 2:65 gearing made for Autobaun storming & to offset the EXTREME off the line Torque these MB's put out even in stock form. (I'm certain you noticed how slow your Truck accelerated w/38"-40" tires vs stock @ 30"-32" tall tires)
Once I get bigger Turbo's I'll def need to go WIDER as 1000+ rwhp will need a 335/40 tire & new set of custom wheels prolly CCW 16x12's
I ran the clk320 wheels around streets about a year ago, the acceleration was flat intoxicating, yes the ESP still blinked but just for a blip between gears. It was dead hooking on street the sidewalls were wrinkling like a hound dog according to my buddies watching me peal away from stoplights etc..
By the way, On my bogger I went to the junk yard and pulled a set of rears and changed the gear ratio. We are talking nearly 20 years ago and if memory serves me correctly we dropped a set of 4.11's in so the gearing with the big tires was almost the same as with the stock tires. I did a 6 inch suspension lift with a 3 inch body lift and still had to cut the fender wells to squeeze the rubber under it. The rocker panels were at my waist when I stood next to it. It died one day when I rolled it over on its roof while trail blazing back in the mountains
.....it was time to move on to something new.
01-10-2012, 11:40 AM
#15
Actually quite competetive, my original H&R 25-30mm pair cost $250.00 if memory serves.
These beauty's that include pressed in lugs/studs only cost $160.00 ea ie $320.00 delivered FedEx
So for a mere $70.00 more you can buy these @ ANY size between 10mm up to FULL 3" & ANY lug pattern 5-6 etc ANY stud sizing 5-112 5-114 whatever make/model car they have ALL OEM stats in computer & Hubcentric! + weigh near nothing for such extreme sizing...
2 week build time, ask for Doug, US Wheel Adapters, (303) 343-1631 Absolutely stellar Customer Service..
These beauty's that include pressed in lugs/studs only cost $160.00 ea ie $320.00 delivered FedEx
So for a mere $70.00 more you can buy these @ ANY size between 10mm up to FULL 3" & ANY lug pattern 5-6 etc ANY stud sizing 5-112 5-114 whatever make/model car they have ALL OEM stats in computer & Hubcentric! + weigh near nothing for such extreme sizing...
2 week build time, ask for Doug, US Wheel Adapters, (303) 343-1631 Absolutely stellar Customer Service..
thanks for the info.
This IS something else.. !
01-10-2012, 12:08 PM
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
Actually quite competetive, my original H&R 25-30mm pair cost $250.00 if memory serves.
These beauty's that include pressed in lugs/studs only cost $160.00 ea ie $320.00 delivered FedEx
So for a mere $70.00 more you can buy these @ ANY size between 10mm up to FULL 3" & ANY lug pattern 5-6 etc ANY stud sizing 5-112 5-114 whatever make/model car they have ALL OEM stats in computer & Hubcentric! + weigh near nothing for such extreme sizing...
2 week build time, ask for Doug, US Wheel Adapters, (303) 343-1631 Absolutely stellar Customer Service..
These beauty's that include pressed in lugs/studs only cost $160.00 ea ie $320.00 delivered FedEx
So for a mere $70.00 more you can buy these @ ANY size between 10mm up to FULL 3" & ANY lug pattern 5-6 etc ANY stud sizing 5-112 5-114 whatever make/model car they have ALL OEM stats in computer & Hubcentric! + weigh near nothing for such extreme sizing...
2 week build time, ask for Doug, US Wheel Adapters, (303) 343-1631 Absolutely stellar Customer Service..
ecstuning.com sells them for $125 and $140 respectively. So H&R's are still at least twice less expensive than above (not $70, but $170+ less).
01-10-2012, 01:24 PM
#17
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Just trying to help out, as member asked how much $$ ect..
Updated pix conming soon Jon/BenzoBoi/etc
Jon, how's that Redonk GTR build coming? You sir are beyond CRAZY!! Your attention to detail has risen to a NEW LEVEL! Just incredible man..
Last edited by Thericker; 01-10-2012 at 01:36 PM.
01-10-2012, 01:40 PM
#18
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I did provide the least expensive source I know of - ecstuning.com (I get them there all the time). Their UPS shipping countrywide is $11-13. Where in the world do you get $30-40 FedEx, unless you overnight? What's another day, or two, or three waiting?
I understand you were asked a question of "how much?". But since you brought out H&Rs (as an example) of being just a bit cheaper, I provided info for others as well to understand that H&Rs are in fact significantly (relatively speaking of course) cheaper, plus an unquestionable R&D piece of mind that comes with every H&R product.
I understand you were asked a question of "how much?". But since you brought out H&Rs (as an example) of being just a bit cheaper, I provided info for others as well to understand that H&Rs are in fact significantly (relatively speaking of course) cheaper, plus an unquestionable R&D piece of mind that comes with every H&R product.
01-10-2012, 01:52 PM
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I did provide the least expensive source I know of - ecstuning.com (I get them there all the time). Their UPS shipping countrywide is $11-13. Where in the world do you get $30-40 FedEx, unless you overnight? What's another day, or two, or three waiting?
I understand you were asked a question of "how much?". But since you brought out H&Rs (as an example) of being just a bit cheaper, I provided info for others as well to understand that H&Rs are in fact significantly (relatively speaking of course) cheaper, plus an unquestionable R&D piece of mind that comes with every H&R product.
I understand you were asked a question of "how much?". But since you brought out H&Rs (as an example) of being just a bit cheaper, I provided info for others as well to understand that H&Rs are in fact significantly (relatively speaking of course) cheaper, plus an unquestionable R&D piece of mind that comes with every H&R product.
now you're comparing my shipping method to UPS vs FedEx then throw out the H&R products are better blahblah Jesus guys like you will strain to find anything to pick apart.. Have a good 1
Thanks for the help
