SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: SL65 Build Parts coming together
03-01-2012, 09:27 PM
#26
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"At 52, I bought my SL65 (and traded my SLK55) last summer and figured, "what the hell, what am I saving it for" I work 6 to 7 days a week and need something to enjoy before I'm too old or dead. And YES, the help I have received from the forums has been tremendous!"
Thats the way to live! Good luck and enjoy it...looks perfect.
Thats the way to live! Good luck and enjoy it...looks perfect.
03-08-2012, 03:56 PM
#28
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2008 SL65, 2006 SLK55(sold)
More R&D
Chris and I decided it would be a good idea to get some "numbers" before we added the heat exchanger and new IC pump just to see what mods were responsible for any HP gains. At this point probably all gains are due to the ECU Tune, compliments of OE Tuning. The new intercoolers are still being fed by the stock pump and stock heat exchanger so probably aren't adding much to the over all setup at this point. After the heat exchanger and IC pump are installed we will have it Dyno'ed again to see what gains the new cooling system will add. We got 565 WHP for a gain of 60 WHP which is about what we were hoping for since the tune is for 70+ at the crank. Sorry, no torque numbers again as the wiring is being uncooperative. Maybe next time. The IAT's seem similar to our first Dyno run so the Scorpion air intakes under the hood don't appear to have any negative effects. But IAT's of 130F seem to be as low as they will go whether on the street or on the Dyno. Hopefully the cooling mods will help with this. Ambient temp was 60F. I have included a video link which gives a very good demonstration of the RennTech lowering module at work. Watch at around the 46 to 48 second mark and you will see the car drop back to the lowered position. At 30MPH and above it goes back to stock thereby eliminating alignment issues.
03-08-2012, 04:41 PM
#29
Are you going to dyno the car? Please post if you do. Would be nice if you could data-log the IATs while on the dyno. I still don't understand having airtakes inside the engine compartment. Seems like any gain from the larger intercoolors could be lost from the hotter air coming in.
the r230 hood has no heat extractors so air temps under the hood are very high especially after a heat soak. beside the intake woosh i am not sure you will see any gains... there is a reason why stock they decided to plumb the whole thing so it gets air from outside.
Last edited by alx; 03-08-2012 at 04:44 PM.
04-03-2012, 05:40 PM
#31
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V12-Biturbo
Nice I bought the same TOP though not into self install ANY shops you'd reco in CA? Ps looks like you bought RENNen Forged wheels? Look just like mine
04-03-2012, 09:27 PM
#32
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Which module?
Also did you have the car running when you put the top down/up? Did you also have remote start installed?
Thanks,
-Mark
04-03-2012, 11:29 PM
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2008 SL65, 2006 SLK55(sold)
Wheels are actually IForged Equip V3's....but Rennen Monolichts were another top choice.
04-03-2012, 11:55 PM
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Mods4Cars model #STLBMZ1 ....the car was not running when the top was going up or down. I do not have a remote start installed. I think you are not far from me in PA .....CBTune.net will be having some get togethers as things warm up if you are interested.
04-04-2012, 12:17 PM
#36
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It looks like in the video the car lowers as the speed drops. So does your car raise when at speed? Seems a bit backwards perhaps?
Great seeing all the mods come together, it looks and sounds SWEET!
"Z"
Great seeing all the mods come together, it looks and sounds SWEET!
"Z"
04-04-2012, 01:02 PM
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2001 Lamborghini Diablo, 2009 SL65 (sold), 1998 CL600 (sold), 1989 560SEL (sold)
All SL's will lower at 80mph and then again at 120mph. The Renntech lowering module will raise the car back to stock at 30mph.
04-04-2012, 03:38 PM
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2001 Lamborghini Diablo, 2009 SL65 (sold), 1998 CL600 (sold), 1989 560SEL (sold)
BTW, 30 is configurable. I've set mine to 1mph. So my car is always at stock height when in motion. I do this so I don't have to worry about hitting the bottom of my bumper on driveway ramps. Only when the car is parked it is lowered.
Last edited by falconsprint; 04-04-2012 at 05:00 PM.
04-04-2012, 03:56 PM
#40
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I agree that is how it should work but on the video the car raises when it is going fast and lowers when it slows down which is backwards from my S65 and I assume other AMGs as well.
I was very suprised to see the car hunker way down (lower) after the completon of the dyno run as the speed gets back to near zero. I thought it would be low during the dyno run when the speed is very high and raise when the speed drops after the run. Check out the run at the 48 second mark it drops like a rock.
I was very suprised to see the car hunker way down (lower) after the completon of the dyno run as the speed gets back to near zero. I thought it would be low during the dyno run when the speed is very high and raise when the speed drops after the run. Check out the run at the 48 second mark it drops like a rock.
04-04-2012, 09:13 PM
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The owner has installed a Renntech lowering module. When slowing down from 30-29 it will lower, when speeding up from 29-30 it will raise.
BTW, 30 is configurable. I've set mine to 1mph. So my car is always at stock height when in motion. I do this so I don't have to worry about hitting the bottom of my bumper on driveway ramps. Only when the car is parked it is lowered.
BTW, 30 is configurable. I've set mine to 1mph. So my car is always at stock height when in motion. I do this so I don't have to worry about hitting the bottom of my bumper on driveway ramps. Only when the car is parked it is lowered.
04-05-2012, 10:31 AM
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Actually, I don't feel comfortable giving out this information because I don't feel it is mine to give out. This wheel setup is the result of collaboration between two different shops(one sponser and one not) and myself. A lot of test fitting and machining went into the final result, since 17's generally won't fit, and there has been talk of offering these as a package purchase. If the sponser or other shop want to give out the information that is up to them. I am sure most can figure out who they are. That is all I can say for now unless they tell me otherwise.
04-07-2012, 05:41 PM
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Yes, as soon as all the mods are complete we will reDyno the car for a before and after comparison. We had 505 HP on the preliminary Dyno run but could not get a torque reading because we couldn't connect to the tac wire. We have hopefully remedied that for the ReDyno.
We are replacing the stock intercooler pump with the same one RennTech uses as their upgrade, although it can be purchased for much less through SpeeDriven(it is an upgrade from the CM30). This pumps output is nearly 3 times the rate of the stock pump. We are also replacing the stock heat exchanger with the SpeeDriven exchanger which will be located in the front stock location which should be getting the first dose of ambient air flow that enters the lower grill area. I don't have the exact dimensions but I would guess it is about 3 times the size of the stock exchanger. Then of course we have the much larger intercoolers to draw the heat off of the intake air.
To answer your concern about the air intakes inside the engine compartment and heat, I would say it is just the lesser of evils. I think the design of the air intakes is more to relieve any air flow restrictions as a first priority. With this new design this engine should be able to gulp air at will and throttle response will be improved. Although in a perfect world it would be better to get air directly from outside the vehicle, this would be at the expense of more plumbing, choke points and restictions in an already tight engine compartment; the air boxes and 90 degree plumbing are all removed. As for the extra heat in the air from the engine compartment, I think it will be insignificant when all the upgraded heat removing parts, ie heat exchanger, IC pump and intercoolers, are taken into account. If there is still an issue then I guess I could add the remote coolant reservoir/ice bath from SpeeDriven.
More pictures to follow as we install the IC Pump and Heat Exchanger.
We are replacing the stock intercooler pump with the same one RennTech uses as their upgrade, although it can be purchased for much less through SpeeDriven(it is an upgrade from the CM30). This pumps output is nearly 3 times the rate of the stock pump. We are also replacing the stock heat exchanger with the SpeeDriven exchanger which will be located in the front stock location which should be getting the first dose of ambient air flow that enters the lower grill area. I don't have the exact dimensions but I would guess it is about 3 times the size of the stock exchanger. Then of course we have the much larger intercoolers to draw the heat off of the intake air.
To answer your concern about the air intakes inside the engine compartment and heat, I would say it is just the lesser of evils. I think the design of the air intakes is more to relieve any air flow restrictions as a first priority. With this new design this engine should be able to gulp air at will and throttle response will be improved. Although in a perfect world it would be better to get air directly from outside the vehicle, this would be at the expense of more plumbing, choke points and restictions in an already tight engine compartment; the air boxes and 90 degree plumbing are all removed. As for the extra heat in the air from the engine compartment, I think it will be insignificant when all the upgraded heat removing parts, ie heat exchanger, IC pump and intercoolers, are taken into account. If there is still an issue then I guess I could add the remote coolant reservoir/ice bath from SpeeDriven.
More pictures to follow as we install the IC Pump and Heat Exchanger.
suffer for beauty as they say) also when running Dyno, you should have the hood open as the fans will NEVER replicate real world Air-Flow @ speed, I'll bet you see another 15+ rwhp w/HOOD OPEN, it's not a Dyno trick whatsoever, these V12tt's are mini-Nuclear Reactors you absolutely need to open hood to get closer to what these cars put down w/True Air-Flow..Get some lighter 18"s & open hood & re-dyno easy 40-45 rwhp being lost here..
Replace oem cats 200-300 cell or remove completely add 3" Down Pipes & full straight piped 3" exhaust (can leave oem H pipe vs X pipe, more ruumble + negligeable HP w/X-pipe) Do ALL this & you'll see more PSI less back pressure easy aditional 30-35 rwhp
Happy modding,
PS get Marcins rear reservoir icey it's integral to lowering your IAT's @ track/ 1/4 mile runs, basically adding this loaded w/ice will make your car run like it's in 45-50 degree Ambient Air Intake Temps, huge HP/TQ bump for 1-2 runs, then drain a bit of coolant & reload..
Last edited by Thericker; 04-07-2012 at 07:36 PM.
04-08-2012, 10:38 AM
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You are loosing easy 25-30 rwhp w/the heavy 20" wheels (ask me how I knowsuffer for beauty as they say) also when running Dyno, you should have the hood open as the fans will NEVER replicate real world Air-Flow @ speed, I'll bet you see another 15+ rwhp w/HOOD OPEN, it's not a Dyno trick whatsoever, these V12tt's are mini-Nuclear Reactors you absolutely need to open hood to get closer to what these cars put down w/True Air-Flow..
Get some lighter 18"s & open hood & re-dyno easy 40-45 rwhp being lost here..
Replace oem cats 200-300 cell or remove completely add 3" Down Pipes & full straight piped 3" exhaust (can leave oem H pipe vs X pipe, more ruumble + negligeable HP w/X-pipe) Do ALL this & you'll see more PSI less back pressure easy aditional 30-35 rwhp
Happy modding, PS get Marcins rear reservoir icey it's integral to lowering your IAT's @ track/ 1/4 mile runs, basically adding this loaded w/ice will make your car run like it's in 45-50 degree Ambient Air Intake Temps, huge HP/TQ bump for 1-2 runs, then drain a bit of coolant & reload..
suffer for beauty as they say) also when running Dyno, you should have the hood open as the fans will NEVER replicate real world Air-Flow @ speed, I'll bet you see another 15+ rwhp w/HOOD OPEN, it's not a Dyno trick whatsoever, these V12tt's are mini-Nuclear Reactors you absolutely need to open hood to get closer to what these cars put down w/True Air-Flow..Get some lighter 18"s & open hood & re-dyno easy 40-45 rwhp being lost here..
Replace oem cats 200-300 cell or remove completely add 3" Down Pipes & full straight piped 3" exhaust (can leave oem H pipe vs X pipe, more ruumble + negligeable HP w/X-pipe) Do ALL this & you'll see more PSI less back pressure easy aditional 30-35 rwhp
Happy modding,
PS get Marcins rear reservoir icey it's integral to lowering your IAT's @ track/ 1/4 mile runs, basically adding this loaded w/ice will make your car run like it's in 45-50 degree Ambient Air Intake Temps, huge HP/TQ bump for 1-2 runs, then drain a bit of coolant & reload..If we can't get the IAT's to acceptable levels after these mods we have considered Marcins Ice Tank, CO2 or even possibly the Killer Chiller but more information is needed before either mod. The Killer Chiller seems like a great idea but I am not sold because it certainly will steal HP and create heat in the air conditioning condensor which is in front of the stock HE. Seems like it would add heat and possible give very little gain; more homework is needed before considering this. The Ice Tank is an option but do you know how large it is? I don't want to sacrifice my entire trunk since I still want to use the car for trips. Again more information is needed.
Thanks for your input and will post as things progress.
04-08-2012, 04:00 PM
#49
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V12-Biturbo
We just mounted the Hoosiers on the drag wheels on Friday night and the weight went from 66lbs for the 20's to 45lbs for the 17 inch drag setup; studs should arrive Monday for a true test fitment on the car. We still haven't added the new IC pump which will be wired to run constantly with the new HE. We hope to get those installed early this week and then get some new Dyno Data. We have't been able to get any torgue readings because we couldn't get to the tach wire at the coil packs so hopefully this time we will get some "good" data logs. We ran into some trouble because the SL65 stock HE is sandwiched between the air conditioning condensor and the radiator and the new after market HE doesn't fit well without some serious modifications so we had to alter the setup and will be running a second heat exchanger, out in front, in tandem with the stock. I believe your HE on the SL600 is out in front from the factory.
If we can't get the IAT's to acceptable levels after these mods we have considered Marcins Ice Tank, CO2 or even possibly the Killer Chiller but more information is needed before either mod. The Killer Chiller seems like a great idea but I am not sold because it certainly will steal HP and create heat in the air conditioning condensor which is in front of the stock HE. Seems like it would add heat and possible give very little gain; more homework is needed before considering this. The Ice Tank is an option but do you know how large it is? I don't want to sacrifice my entire trunk since I still want to use the car for trips. Again more information is needed.
Thanks for your input and will post as things progress.
If we can't get the IAT's to acceptable levels after these mods we have considered Marcins Ice Tank, CO2 or even possibly the Killer Chiller but more information is needed before either mod. The Killer Chiller seems like a great idea but I am not sold because it certainly will steal HP and create heat in the air conditioning condensor which is in front of the stock HE. Seems like it would add heat and possible give very little gain; more homework is needed before considering this. The Ice Tank is an option but do you know how large it is? I don't want to sacrifice my entire trunk since I still want to use the car for trips. Again more information is needed.
Thanks for your input and will post as things progress.
04-08-2012, 07:48 PM
#50
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You'll loose ZERO trunk space, it fits entirely & neatly under the Carpet Portition, pull that up & that's where 600/65 if optioned store spare tire & tool set & emergency Air-Compressor to inflate etc (chucked that long ago round 50-75 lbs) replaced w/5.5 gallon res, even w/Res filled it weighs 30 odd lbs less than ALL oem roadside stuff (never needed it anyway MB roadside is free for life + no way that lil' spare will fit my or your car very well w/huge 20" wheels)
