Welcome.....

 

So here something to think about for later and maybe even help me with a bit of info too. As you know, I chose to have the dealer replace my SBC for me. Luckily, the tech thought my mods were really cool and looked over the engine. He told me my headers (same as yours) come down closer to the A/C line on one side and near another line which I don't remember now on the other side. He said because the headers are closer to these two lines, he can see early signs of heat damage from the headers. He suggested a protective wrap. I was thinking about these. http://www.thermotec.com/products/14...s-sleeves.html

Pricy, but easy to install from under the car because of the velcro. Any idea what line the tech was talking about that is near the header on the other side? You might want to consider some sort of wrap and you know the deal if you find them in the U.S.

 

Yes Cal – I see ……. you say you have the same headers but don’t you have long ones? and your two main cats have been deleted – right?

I was thinking changing my cats with some Miltek but they are expensive …. not sure if they are worth it for if they don’t “do the job” and takes the pollution away I will never get my car through the control …. every year you will have to go there and almost every time I get into trouble with my SL600 …… this car is very hard to get through ….
http://www.millteksport.com/hiflow.sports.cats.cfm

I will find out what lines that are in the “hazard zone” and this with the velcro closure solution makes it very easy to install – if you remember then I did buy some of this stuff on amazon a while ago but none of them had this velcro closure solution – thanks for the info))

There are another solution I have been contemplating on but that’s a very expensive one – the good thing about this one is that it takes away the heat from the engine bay: http://www.zircotec.com/page/home/1 (it does not however protect lines etc. from heat)

This is what they say:

Q31. What temperature reduction can I expect with my coated exhaust.... - Our Performance RangeTM offers typical surface temperature reductions of 33%; so if your uncoated exhaust operates at say 600oC , then our ceramic coating will reduce this to just 400oC (so a massive 200oC reduction). This has a major impact on the amount of heat escaping into the engine compartment, and on the temperature of components close to the exhaust. Our ceramic coating has in fact been demonstrated to reduce general underbonnet temperatures by up to 50oC (122oF).
Q32. Will your ceramic exhaust coating improve performance - Engine performance is improved in a number of ways:
By reducing engine bay temperatures our coating can help reduce intake air temperature. A drop in intake air temperature of just 30oC can deliver a 6% increase in power (or increase engine efficiency leading to less fuel usage), and our coating has in fact been demonstrated to reduce underbonnet temperatures by up to 50oC (122oF).
By keeping the exhaust gases hot they flow more easily through the exhaust and this aids cylinder scavenging. This benefits all engine types, though the effect is potentially most pronounced for 2-stroke engines.
Keeping heat in the exhaust gas allows turbochargers to spool up more quickly making turbocharged engines more responsive.

A set of headers for 8 cylinder tubular manifolds will cost to coat £403 for Primary Black; £576 for Performance White or £662 for any from our Performance Colours range. Prices exclude shipping and VAT. Turnaround time is approximately 10 working days.

Expensive …..

 

Your headers are basically Klemann shorty headers correct? Mine I think are identical just got them from EvoSport and they were ceramic coated.

I still have my primary cats, just removed the secondary cats.

 

Cutting out the muffler … replacing it with stainless steel pipe …. doing this the hard way – ended up with but-weld …. to make sure the welding will last a lifetime I used argon gas as backing – important that the welding is not exposed to oxygen while been welded – inside and outside. The way to do it is to close all openings with tape - also where you intend to weld. Here you use a special tape the takes the heat. Then you fill the exhaust with argon gas and keep purging while you are welding. To make sure the system is filled you make a small hole in one end and put a burning flame in front of it – if it goes out then you are ready to weld. (argon displaces oxygen) It did not turn out as pretty as I expected but it will last))

Curt; why did you remove your secondary cats?

 

Thanks for sharing the process. I found that very interesting.

I removed the secondaries to reduce a bit of restriction and get a little more exhaust note. Sound wise, the note is about the same under normal load. It does have a very slight drone at idle. Under heavy load, the exhaust note is noticeably loader, but not obnoxious.
If I remember right, the no longer in business EvoSport actually sold the mod and claimed 5 WHP gain.

I used an old "U" bend trick. As you know, the secondaries are offset so a straight pipe doesn't really work. A stainless "U" can be cut with one piece a bit longer than the other and fit almost perfectly.

 

Then it’s down to the Kleeman headers …… bought them on eBay … and as it turned out not a perfect fit.
I knew that from the outset and had some new flange made in stainless steel so I was ready to go. Still – took a few moments to gather the courage to finally take the grinder and cut my exhaust. First then could I see how much work I had in front of me – the offset was much more than I had feared. So mush exactly that I had to take another decision of cutting the cat loos …. not off but only loose so I will be able to turn it outwards.
All in all I should be able to make it fit.

 

Cutting the cat loose didn’t get me all the way …. so another hard decision had to be made – cutting the Kleeman header …..

The big question will be how it will turn out when the engine goes in. I will have to test it all before the finally welding.

 

Remind me again Klaus, are those mid-length headers or shorties?

 

I am not sure what they have been for …. but for sure they can be any shorter than now )

The pics. shows the procedure of the build – cut and past …. I am pleased with the result so fare …

 

More pics. also the other side

I had to cut back the other header more than the first one …. but this side went very fast as now I knew where to cut …. need more welding rods so have to wait till next week to weld it … then I need to test it on site in the car … that’s goanna be fun)

 

OK – so I took the trouble to fit the exhaust and install the engine for control of the fitment. The engine slipped easy down and ….. it was not a 98% fit …. it was a 100% fit)) I am very pleased.

So back out with the whole lot and let’s get welding! ….

 

Two things are thou questions me ….. the headers are not straight on the flange that goes onto the engine …. should I have it machined or should I simply compensate with an extra gasket? … it is due to the heat from the welding – the ends goes “upwards”

The other thing is the heat …. should I have them ceramic coated? It is expensive – coating will amount to 570$ ……

 

Wow, brilliant work, congrats on the excellent fitment!

 

Thanks for the comment …… Welded – and no so bad …. just have to finished it up with some stainless steel pasta and cleaned it with water – it have to wait since the thermometer is showing -20 Celsius (-4 Fahrenheit) …… so onto something ells in the meantime.

 

I actually start work on it last summer and first step was cleaning it for painting and then I also wanted to make some mods on it as a packaged.

I want to make the 82 mm. throttle and I have an idea of trying to keep the heat input in the cooler unit down. Two ways to do this will be physical heat protection from the engine and a coating on the cooler unit.
There were thou a surprise for me waiting which have set me back – more of this later. Some pics showing the cleaning and disassembling of the supercharger.

 

Turning the wheel I could hear a sound that wasn’t supposed to be there ……
like crunching sound – coming and going – had to investigate and the only way was to take it apart – will go for the oil change at the same time then.

 

Had to be careful taking it apart …. never know what will turn up.

Found the “chorusing sound” – dirt in the two back bearings. When I took the engine apart I noticed some oil coming into places where it should not – guess it’s the signs of a used high performance engine.

Its closed bearings so not so easy to clean them – I will try to change them instead. Even it’s say NKT and the code is easy readable NKT does not seems to be able to help me. I have the feeling it’s not a standard upset. Also contacted PSE Supercharge in the US but they do not want to help me out except a total overhaul which I am not interested in.

Now I have tried SKF here in Sweden to see if they can help.

 

While waiting for SKF, then I am continuing with putting together the rest of the engine. The pulleys and all the components has to go on …. nice to work around when everything is clean. The crankshaft pulley was to have 200Nm and then 90 degrees … 200Nm no problem but no way 90 degrees … it will have to do with about 30 degree … and gave it a little Loctite

Here’s a hint if you ever are going to loosen the crank pulley; the MB Star says you have to use the big counter holder in the front when losing the bolt …. no room there …. but if you buy the stop which fits onto the flywheel where the starter are fasten then you have a very good hold of the crankshaft – I will say it’s good enough when assembling but not sure if it will hold alone when taking the bolt off and using air tools or similar. But it will hold every thing in position.

 

Looking incredible Klaus! Will the SL be up and running before Viktor is old enough to drive?

 

There was a person who replaced the SC bearings and cleaned them - even though they are not a serviceable part. I saw this in the last month or so on this or another MB web site. You may do a search to look or if I come across, I will let you know. I think it may have been under I search I did for changing the M113K supercharger oil.

HTH.

 

The link to the SC bearing repair/re-grease - bearing info starts on page 4... Post #79

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...K+supercharger

 

Ha ha ha …. you have a point Cal)) …… It is my plan to have the engine in and a start-up at the end of the summer …… mmmmmmmm …….

I did read this thread once but haven’t seen the continuation on it – good info. thanks for the tip.

The story with the bearing has had an end. It is not possible to get bearings in the same size for this supercharger as they are specially made for a customer. The possibility of putting new bearings in this supercharger can only be done by having the housing machined to fit a new type …. not a road I will go down.
The other solution is to have it sent to the US for a make-over by PSE Supercharger which is also not an option for me. Ergo this supercharger is going on the shelf for now.

So – I am in the need for another supercharger. Some years ago I bought a defective engine on eBay. The guy had to clear his garage and had a Carlsson engine sitting there with cyl. 8 blown. I didn’t hesitate and got a very good buy))
After I got it home it has just been sitting there and the supercharger looks fine so I am gonna cannibalize this Carlsson engine.

I do not know mush of the history of this engine. The blue engine stand it was coming in had metal signs with numbers and barcodes from AMG factory. I got the whole packaged. Some details are worth noticing: Carlsson have not been using the original cooler for the supercharger – not easy to see on the pics. but they have made a special pipe line for the throttle body to by-pass the cooler. Also there’s a little bracket which have an adjusting bolt for the tensioner pulley - I am going to put that onto my own engine also …..

What ells goodies there is to be found in this Carlsson engine I do not know and if any of the forum members have experience with Carlsson then please fill in.

 

Check out this link:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ng-source.html

Nice to see your work amok55amg - thanks for all of your pictures.

 

+1000000000000..

ZAYED,,