F1BHP

Has anybody tries running anything other than water/coolant in the cooling system?

Thericker

Here's my latest/last 1 off CAI piping to outside grill goes to nearly 5" DIA.. It's far and away best CAI I've come up w/ALL silicone tubing w/gradual decrease to puny stock turbo air inlets. Wrapped in graphite header wrap, except for last 5-6" exiting front grill..


"DUAL ELEPHANT TRUNKS" V12 BITURBO CAI

RaceHorse

Looking good, do you feel any difference from your last setup or just cleaned things up a bit.

Thericker

Huge dif, was only running 11-12 psi giant boost leak in Main lines, and 1 of IC's now up to 26-27 psi + latest tweeks to CAI feels like a monster How's ur rig running?
blast from photoshoot past... On fashion 20" whls weighed 75+ lbs ea in rear lol but looked the part!

euphoriaDSM

Thericker, did you do any cutting on the plastic shroud where your piping goes beside the radiator? I was thinking of doing a similar setup and just cutting the plastic ducting and that scoop out that is behind the grille or did you leave that all there and just mate your piping/coupler up to the factory duct?

Thericker

Added a couple RED vinyl MB logos on Intercoolers for contrast & to match red BOV's
Bad lighting, take more tamm... (RED) MERCEDES-BENZ logos ea side..

(Cut up/shave as much extra oem plastic that limits cold air entering etc.. Had to to try & get more CFM coming thru...)

euphoriaDSM

Thanks for being so forth coming on your setup. This is what a forum is about, trial and error, and sharing that learned tribal knowledge to benefit others.

F1BHP

Euphoria what scoop behind the grille? Do we have a built in scoop to channel air to the side ducts? I was looking at doing some TTM style scoops to channel the air.

euphoriaDSM

Take your front grille off and you should see 2 plastic ducts on each side of the radiator:

F1BHP

I haven't seen those scoops before. They must be 65 only. Those plates in front of the intake holes look like they will block the air or is air being forced from the top?

euphoriaDSM

I agree in thinking they would restrict air flowing in, that's why I asked Thericker what he did with his.

Thericker

They're exact same on both 65/600 m275 models Dremmel/grind/those off, completely. they're meant soley to keep mass water from entering intake pathways. I removed them 5-6 yrs ago, you'd havta sit in 2-3' of standing water to hydrolock these motors. German Engineers go above/beyond.. Also widen intake paths on inside of engine where air enters thru Radiator supports... Hard to write w/out stylist, leave the BOTTOM FLAP, remove the large TOP flap CIRCLED.. It's only blocking additional airflow..

And ANY? Doubters I go to pro hand car wash monthly, they use pressure washers, & aim them right at the front grill where these openings are. Leave your motor running it's just fine mist & if anything cools ambient air charge a minute bit, similar to meth but far, far, less invasive or intense in actual liquid entering as it has to go thru MB grill/mesh & your filters. This air doesn't enter your Throttle body directly either, it gets compressed inside turbs, then sent thru air charge pipes to your IC's to be be cooled, then finally onto TB.., So you see NO hydlock danger here... UNLESS you're Charlie Babbit (RainMan) & just hold a garden hose full blast into ea intake for few min lol..

euphoriaDSM

Will do!!! I'm not concerned with hydro locking. I know the intake would have to be submerged to actually hydro lock it. On my 1031awhp dsm I run no filter no intake as well.

Thericker

[/URL]Day time shot of new logos.. Exactly.. Peeps get too scuuured over this term, when in actuality it will take a GROSS amount of either submerged or injected h20 to cause such catastrophic failure...

sound 8

With high pressure washers it's not the front you need to worry about,
I just emptied my boot full of water, that's what high pressure does to
your boot/trunk sills, not to mention in your headlights and brake callipers.
Why do you need high pressure, sure if you have been off road, but these
beauties are shining.

Thericker

All you need to do is have ALL the rubber seals that line trunk properly siliconed/greased/maintained.. If not they become stiff & don't properly make water tight seals... I have no such leakage on 05' You're misunderstanding my description, they briefly use hi press washer w/cold water to quickly remove larger dirt etc that could cause scratches in your paint if NOT removed before they hand wash after spray down.. No leaks in headlights/calipers your thinking high pressure steam washers lol

sound 8

The trouble is when you buy a 10 year old car, if the seals have not been
looked after doing it now is rather like shutting the door when the horse
has gone. High pressure washers are great when you have big lumps
hanging on you car, but just to rinse off shampoo is a bit of an over kill.
If you don't use your brakes after a high pressure wash the pads rust
on the disc, I know cause mine warped and were stuck on when I used
one once. Of course there is water sprays that squirt on your intercooler,
and I believe water injection , but you would know about this. Sorry
to bother you After what you said about lowering links, I got rid of them
to day and put a RennTech module on, I am not happy with the way it drives.

Thericker

It's your crummy roads & low profile wheels IE 20"s /25 side wall or Aspect Ratio... I switched to 18"s and still havn't installed my Renntech module. The ride is near STOCK smooth on CA sh_it pothole ridden asphalt etc.. the Modules are a GREAT Improvement over the links. Links lower past ECU's control making all road dampening tech worthless.. Modules work w/ECU & oem suspension to create ultimate hybrid of beautiful lowered look that's STILL DRIVABLE.. Your Aspect Ratio must be 25-or less, and primarily why your wheels are bending like Gumby...

Now you may still love bigger wheels? switch to @ largest 19"s keep AR to 30 at least, ever notice OEM tire specs on 18"s 18/40 or 18/35 until all this gawdy Rapper BS corroded modern autos w/Donks 20"-21"-22" wheel DIA it not only rides for shard, it kills your overall gear ratio making your car slower IE your rear pumpkin/Diff has Tall gearing already, MB's are known for top end, add taller wheels you retard that further making your car indeed slower @ launch.. etc Sooo stop wanking & get some 18"s w/35/40 Profile thickness.. And report back

sound 8

I agree on most things you say, I hate noise and I hate hard rides, and
I love acceleration. And of course the LOOK is very important. For looks
you need 20" rims, then to keep the rolling radius the same you need low profile tyres for acceleration, then to make it look even better you drop it.
Looks are great, ride is hard and potholes destroy your wheels and your
spine. I had the same with my SL55 with 18" rims, but not so often and the ride was better. The way you convinced me that the links were dreadful and
the module was great I thought you had one fitted.

I am really confused now, obviously you cant have looks and longevity
What drawbacks do you have with high power, bet you can't find any

Thericker

Ditch the "Fashion" 20"s man dropitsballzz on 19"s w/30 AR/Profile rear & /35 up front then report back.. I roll on 265/40/18 335/30/18 smooth as buttered SILK on phaggy links UNLESS ON zero Sport settinsg IE NO LIGHTS.. COMP DUMPED..
Drawbacks to high hp/tq? Wear out your RIGHT/LEFT (depending on ur geography) shoe soles, like a 1 legged sprinter... And.... TICKETS..... The MAN!! BABY! Boys N' Blue gots me in their crosshairs! Edit: my Renntech module goes on next week, full install by me w/pix..

Thericker

Duplicate.. mods please reactivate delete post option.. w/out it? It just clutters the already dirty sandbox w/more turds

sound 8

Sorry I don't wish to be rude, but are you drunk..

Thericker

I knew trying to help you would be a fruitless endeavor.. Well @ least I was partly right you're still a fruit

sound 8

Sorry, you are normally so well spoken, all this reference to turds and your
ebullient manner led me to believe you where intoxicated.
Anyway is your car a Black ed , or does it have a wide body kit, I can't
imagine these cars with 18's and without being lowered.
Look forward to your Video, give me a wave..
My car is going well again.

Thericker

Hmm.. you put it that way point humbly taken.. I have a decent grasp of English language, was just trying to add a little levity... lol body kitted w/more eng mods than I care to list.. Trust me, the 20"s give that aesthetically balanced look/adds proper/stance isn't THE ONLY way to achieve the look you're after. 20+" wheels do look great but at a steep price, not just monetarily but as you/others know ride regresses back to covered/wagon stage coach days lol....

To reacquire said balance w/18"s you SIMPLY buy larger tires mainly the Aspect Ratio, I've been rambling on about for years, it's the MIDDLE FIGURE embossed on the sides of your tires. It gives your car that supple/yet firm highly stable/ultimate traction when configured correctly.. IE avg 20" 275-285/25/20 that AR of 25 is so thin/hard there's literally no give to aid oem suspension when hitting potholes etc..

But those 20"s fill the wheel wells perfectly right? Form over Function... To fix this & fill those wheel wells completely and reap ALL benefits of handling/traction/smooth ride etc etc buy smaller DIA wheels 18's inmop PERFECT..

Wrap them in proper sized rubber, IE look at oem tires on 18"-19" wheels, still look too anemic even w/moderate lowering right? MB frnts are usually 255- go like BMW THEIR known for great handling perf cars, they run 265/45/18 up frnt vs MB @ 255/40/18 then REAR 285/40/18 vs MB 275/35/18.. you get the point, the 1st # doesn't just denote overall width of tire it's bigger everywhere, then the 2nd # Aspect Ratio, or Sidewall, it denotes actual height of sidewall & immeasurably increases ride comfort/TRACTION/etc etc.. In summation if you wrap your wheels w/proper rubber, you'll ONLY NEED a minimal lowering drop, say 3/4" & your wheel wells will look balanced, and your car will ride/be under better control than stock.. Try it..

For more technical explanation using my rear wheels, they & all modern tires are measured in MM.. or Inches in Drag applications.. here's my 335/30/18 breakdown..
335/30R18

MM*INCHES

Metric Dimensions printable table size circumference radius sidewall height inner diameter overall diameter 335/30R18

Circumfrence 2067.8mm Radius 329.1mm Sidewall Height 100.5mm Inner Diameter 457.2mm Overall Diameter 658.2mm

Now look @ the FASTEST/HANDLING/ACCELERATING road race cars, Indy Race Cars. & what tire/wheel setups they utilize to do the seemingly impossible in Traction/handling/Accelerating they run 15's frnt 14"s rear wheel Diameter! Modern spec for fastest handling, accelerating circuit raced beasts.. [/quote] This isn't for street cars obviously, but through studying/using/different sized setups like I'm currently using (tho you'd greatly benefit going quite a bit smaller as mines fitted for Widebody etc) hope this helps understanding how properly outfitted wheel size to tire size will do vastly more for handling & looks when matched correctly to your application.. vs big wagon wheel 20"21"22" etc + they not only reduce ride quality they indeed make your car slower.. unless you install SHORTER GEARING in diffs..