sound 8

Thanks for the detailed answer, sounds like you sobered up.

I suppose F1 cars do it your way, small wheels ( diameter ) with almost
balloon tyres, in fact there are some really old supercars that have balloon
tyres, probably got no suspension. When I first started all this car business,
all you done was fit wider tyres, then some design guru decided that
massive diameter wheels with rubber bands were the way to go.
At the end of the day all I want is a stunning looker, a wonderful sound, but
not TOO loud, and exciting acceleration, which I have, until I hit a pothole,
or it rains filling my boot/trunk. You are younger, and you live in a country
where every thing is at hand. The UK is a bit mahnyahnah, and 10 years behind you when it comes to service and availability.
Well time to go, are you having a beer or two.

F1BHP

The other reason for going to 20" wheels is Brake size. I have Carlsson ultra light 20" and the reason I went this route was due to my 405mm 16" Brakes on the front. I cannot find any light weight 19" wheels that will clear them.
I will say I spent a fortune on the wheels however have noticed zero difference in ride quality compared to the 18" stock wheels I had before (this was a surprise ) so I am happy i spent the extra bucks. One of the main issues as you increase the size of the wheel is that the rotational mass of each wheel is also increasing which means the suspention reaction is reduced and therefore your ride becomes rough.
Some 20" wheel/tyre combo weigh 75lb my fronts with PSS tyres come in at 44lb which is actually less than my previous 18" wheel/tyre combo which came in at 56lb. So I increased my wheel size got thinner and stiffer side walls and decreased my rotational mass on all 4 corners which has had a dramatic affect on my handling without any downsides in the comfort department.
So the conclusion is spend a tone of money on big ultra lightweight forged wheels and you will be fine. Forgot to mention the overpriced BBK 405mm which are also amazing.

Thericker

Jesus ur a persnickety ole fart, as I said I was adding some levity/joking not drinking.. I'm officially done wasting my time w/you... Enjoy your Stage Coach

Thericker

Added some contrast, Dry CF inlays w/red MB logos.. Not permanent just trying few dif design ideas to spruce up eng bay..

Lol havn't seen my flip phone since my Trekky days... Iphn6 not bad, just crummy lighting Gotta add something extra to really bring back the MB class after my Elephant Trunks...

ttboost

Despite the flip phone pic quality, it looks cool...

sound 8

Sorry, it's my English humour ..


But I was agreeing with you regarding wheels/tyres on a F1 car.
I don't understand your remark " ive done wasting my time w/you "
What did you do for me ?:

euphoriaDSM

Is that 2 45 bends or 1 60 bend and then you gradually tilted the rest into place?

spartan7669

that looks incredible

Jimshorts

Just slapped together an intake over the last couple weeks. Everything is fitting snug just need to put some exhaust wrap on them and should be good to go. I did some test runs and the car sounds completely different. Will the ecu automatically adjust the fuel? This thing is getting so much air now I would have to guess its running a little lean.

NEMES1S

any pictures?

Jimshorts

These are were the final mock up. Finishing them this week adding header wrap and getting everything tightened down.

RaceHorse

Looks really good, but header wrap is such a waste. You are not recirculating air, it's a constant supply of fresh outside air, the math geeks can calculate the actual feet per minute based on diameter and engine consumption. It's the same as quickly touching the stove, you won't burn your finger. Even if the tubing gets warm there is no heat transfer.
It's used for exhaust to keep heat in for better velocity out, beside headers heating up the engine compartment and floor of the car where clearance is close. If you are drawing warm air from under the hood that will affect your IATs, but tubing to the front past the radiator doesn't require wrap in my opinion.

Jimshorts

Thanks that should save me some time. I noticed thericker's was wrapped wasnt sure how much of a difference it would make with the air moving so fast especially at speed. Have some coolant lines leaking getting that taken care of over the next couple of days and ill put the rest of the clamps on and slap this thing on. The turbo noises alone are worth the time putting one of these together.

wlelandj

Looking good Jim! I'm going to have to sit down and build one one day. Would you mind sharing the sizes, angles, and such?
-Leland

Ekselent

Here Is my CAI.
Carbon fiber. 3" al the way
The best of all

Jimshorts

I went to froozenboost to order everything. I used silicone and stainless steel joiners. I read how racehorse and thericker had build theirs and found some measurements.

I only went to 3inch i guess some guys on here have gone as large 5in.

2 x Reducer 3in to 2.25in(this will go right onto the turbo inlet)
2 x 90* 3in elbow
2 x 30* 3in elbow
2 x 45* 3in elbow(these were cut and flipped up)
6 x 3in stainless steel joiners
4-8 clamps of your choice ive got T bolts on mine.

I put it together in that order reducer, 90*, 30*, 45* flip and cut. They fit snug against the stock intake inlets. From there I got a piece of stainless tell 200 mesh 75 micron and put that on the end as a filter. With this setup you cant drive in the rain which is fine with me I dont take it out if there is a chance of rain on the radar.

The passenger side is very tight and can be frustrating but with a little bit of muscle and a tiny bit of hammering to a ss joiner or 2 and everything fits great.

All said and done might be $200-250 in parts and it makes the car sound exotic. Playing around in M or sport mode you can really get these turbos to make some noise and you can actually hear bov sounds!

link for the mesh