Good news too, Jerry at Eurocharged is working with me to resolve this issue.

 

its customers like you that give hard working companies a hard time
your coil packs would of gone anyway eventually stock or tuned its the crappy design on these stupid coil packs and still is stupid to this date.

 

I am sorry you are having these issues. That said, IMO, Jerry is a bigger man than you. You had an obligation to attempt to work things out with EC prior to launching your "FLAME" thread. I suspect things would have worked out even better for you if you would have given Jerry a chance to work with you first.

Most of us have tremendous power on MBW. If a trusted member says bad things about a vendor, other members take it as gospel. I suspect you have compromised your power. You slandered a trusted vendor prior to attempting to work things out with them. That sucks.

 

Glad that eurocharged is doing what they can to resolve this customer service issue.

Sl65monsta though i was on your side as far as them backing you since you claimed ignorance to the coil packs failing and when asked they were not mentioned, though it is a widely known issue with the m275, I think this thread was made in haste and was emotionally charged. You should've given the vendor adequate time to resolve the issue and if not satisfied then start the thread.

 

Yeah well.

FIRE! Um... Ready, Aim?

 

Are you sure the new plugs have the right gap?

They are probably OK, but you need to be SURE.

Otherwise you will break your new coil packs.

I had a Eurocharged tune, and yes, it needed new coil-packs.

Same as every other V12TT tuner.

Same as every other V12.

Get over it.

Nick

 

hey guys you might be in the high performance game for a lot longer then me , and might have been on this forum with much more involvement than myself. Maybe it was partially emotionally charged, regardless at the end of the day this is not a personal vendetta or attack on EC. I did ask the question if it would need upgrades or be affected , the answer was "no" so is the vendor wrong ? absolutely. Is the vendor working with me to help resolve the issue? yes ! does this mean they should not be held responsible partially? no!

Like I said if people were told these issues would arise and compromise coils, I'm sure a lot of people would just sit back factory stock. Some wont ! there will always be people who wont.

Am I up for thousands because of this tune? AT THIS POINT IN TIME, IM NOT 100% SURE!

is the vendor completely nasty to not help there customers? ABSOLUTELY NOT!

this post is reminder and warning for all people thinking of tuning there cars, and is not just an attack on one vendor in this case being Eurocharged!

This post will be valuable to someone who is thinking of tuning there car one day, it also seems that I am not the only person whos had this issue after a tune.

You can point all your fingers all you like as much as you like, but the fact remains that my car was fine before tune, straight after tune it failed, was it a coincidence I dont know! as a normal person who picks up there car from a MB dealership and it is misfiring !00% of you will call the dealership ASAP or return if not the minute you drove out the gates, this is no different whatsoever , I experienced this and was under the apprehension that this was the vendors fault, time will tell. Have I learnt anything out of this ? YES ABSOLUTELY! it tuning cars requires certain upgrades , if not can put extra stress on factory cars and there parts.

Final conclusion;
is I am wrong for blaming completely Eurocharged as my car parts may have been vulnerable to fail after performance tunes applied if not soon either way!
Eurocharged is wrong for not being completely transparent about the added stress and previous coil packs failures right after tunes with previous customers!
are we being civil about it to ensure everyone is happy ? absolutely ! in saying so other tuning companies would have left me completely out in the dark, EC and Jerry arent and are working with me which is a huge plus for Eurocharged as far as customer support is concerned.

 

In this thread so far there are at least 2 people, Monsta, and Nick, who have experienced coil problems after a EC tune. I am now number 3. I have the exact same problems, now, today. Perfect running before, now misfire coil codes, and half an engine. How many others have gone through this. EC claims hundreds of V12 tunes with NO issues, yet here on this thread alone there are now 3. Are there any others. Do new coil packs make the problem go away forever. If so great. I'll bite the bullet, change the coils, and at least I'll get my car back. And if I can then keep the tune running I'll be really happy because the tune is great. Is tuning a crap shoot. Maybe, but it would have been nice to factor the cost and inconvenience of the gamble into the original decision. On the plus side EC so far is standing behind the problem trying to help. But I doubt I'll find a couple of coil packs in my post box.

 

One coil pack in my car went bad years ago WITHOUT a tune.

I would take it as it is. The first series of coils fail at some point - the new series are holding longer - if some Part-Nr. is changed from MB, something is always changed (supplier of the part, better material quality etc.).

When I remember correctly, MB is not allowed to sell the old part-nr. anymore

 

speaking to Mercedes technical, the coils are exact same, except different supplier, the reason the part number changed was so they could determine which coil pack was from which supplier and fitted to that particular vehicle. They have survived in this beast for 12 years! I wouldn't say they are a subject to failure component at all! if anything its just the car is not young anymore.

 

opened coil packs today! internal solder looked okay, no visible burned out components.

 

Well if it is just a different supplier the new one makes them better as they last longer and don't fail after a tune.

 

yes this could possibly be true as the Tech guy said, sometimes the new supplier uses better quality parts or manufacture them better. That being said I still am not 100% certain my coil packs are faulty. Upon removing them two rubber boots that go into the coil housing were cracked, which could have shorted the spark, also there was condensation and drops of coolant ! which is most likely also the culprit. Just trying to figure out how the hell coolant got there? Checked all over no leaks. Seems it must be the rear IC reservoir cap nipple "overflowing".

Does this even happen? I have now put a hose on it to direct any overflow to the bottom of the engine bay

 

There's nothing there to see.

When a coil pack fails, you MAYBE see a bulge in the cylindrical metal screen around the coil. In bad cases you see a bulge or a burn. It might just be a slight split in the longitudinal welded seam.

Nick

 

Several members have said its usually the "top of the coil solder joints that crack" that usually makes them fail, but mine seemed intact. I did find condensation on two of the coils where the plugs go into, and two rubber plug boots cracked, am thinking this has come from the expansion tank IC nipple. About a hour ago I was reading your write up on cooling pumps , IC, HE wow , did you end up going parallel yet ?

 

I have been reading along this thread and one thing that was mentioned by SL65MONSTA was "plugs were changed a week ago, less then 150kms on them".

Over the years of obsessing about the 65 motor I read many posts of the pluses and the minuses with these amazing engines. Coil packs came up again and again as a huge minus. I also read that changing the plugs on these engines must be done with great care and experience especially since you have to remove both of the coil packs to do the job. So in your case you just changed or had the plugs changed and they were 12 years old. Maybe just maybe they were damaged during the plug job?
From this side of the table I can't see how it is anyone's fault except old age.
Not trying to start anything just pointing some facts.

Last year I finally got my dream car and the first thing I did was pull the ECU and send it to Jerry at Eurocharged. Never looked back the car still runs amazing!

 

Welwynnick,

I've been following this tread for a while now. Lots of interesting information and first-hand knowledge on what items on a vehicle may possibly be affected by a tune beyond the ECU itself from people who have gone through the process a few times. This is why I find this site better than most. Practical, real-world knowledge.

Unless I'm badly mistaken, I would expect any tune, from any vendor, to of course place some additional load / stress on several parts of the drive train. After all, all the extra power has to come at some cost in the form of additional load being placed on a number of parts. It's not magic after all. It's what you would expect to occur normally. You're increasing the output of a vehicle to it's upper safe operational limits from the factory stock tune. So obviously the tune is increasing the load placed on both electrical and mechanical components. Now if all the various parts of the drive train are in excellent condition, I wouldn't expect a tune to cause any component failure. As it wouldn't make sense for any vendor to design a tune to stress a vehicle's parts beyond their safe operational limits.

On the other hand, if some vehicle components have become marginal due to age and normal wear, those parts may have worked perfectly well on a stock vehicle, but quickly fail once a tune is installed. The additional load / stress of the tune would lead some marginal components to fail. Some sooner than others. I would expect that to be an expected and the potential risk associated of getting a tune. As a lot of people say on this and other sites like to say, you have to be prepared to pay, if you want to play. So if someone is not prepared to incur a lot of potential, unexpected extra costs, they should probably skip doing a tune. At least that is my understanding of what the potential risks / costs could be of getting a tune from any vendor. Is this accurate?

 

if you followed the thread “carefully” as you state you would have read that after the plug change car was running fine for a few days, dont say your not pointing or insinuating anything ! you are! what would have been appropriate to do was to ask me “ hey bud how did the car run after the plug change?” well you didnt , you went the most un honourable way about it and tried to direct the blame onto me. I dont know what you do for work but I’m a jeweller I work with the most delicate and intricate stones and metals "being careful” is what I live for “literally its how I make my livelihood”

secondly , the coil packs are not a minus but just dam expensive , is why people complain about them, they are not a fail part or a part that is a flaw on the vehicle they are just dam expensive so people automatically attribute the cost to Mercedes flaw! its not its what you pay to run a V12.
Im glad you reiterated what I said 5 posts ago that the coils are just old.

Am I attacking you ? NO not at all, you might perceive it to be so, but I promise you not at all. I just like positive input into conversations, not just rambling

 

very accurate indeed ! However as I stated previously I wasn't aware of the tuning side and left it to the experts which or whom failed to inform me about In hindsight if I knew this, I would have never tuned my car.

 

This pretty much sums up my life at the moment

 

I will double check this , didn't seem to be any cracks anywhere from what I could see. I will double check it but. Of topic here a little, seeming you know so much about the cooling system of the IC/HE what would be the best way to bleed this system? also is it a self bleed system eventually over time?

 

This is what I did with my two bad coil packs.

First I tried removing the coils without disconnecting them from the inside first. You can do this, but you break the three electrical connections, and then you have to open up anyway, and repair them afterwards. I found the foils broke, rather than their tiny welded joints. I was hoping the joints would be the problem, as they would be an easy fix, but I never found one that seemed remotely weak. And I pulled 20 of them.

Where I saw any indication of a coil overheating, I removed it and pulled it apart. They're tough! A bad coil seems to overheat in the centre, and burn through to the outside. The plastic is pushed out and the metal cylinder is pushed open. It must take a lot of force to do that.

Even on a coil that had obviously failed, I couldn't find any electrical measurement to identify a faulty one. Each leg of a good coil measures about 600 milliohms, but then so does a bad one.

Replacement coil can come from new MotorKing replacements from eBay, or from a "bad" used OEM coil.

Nick

 

How can you tell which coils needed repairing ? hit or miss by the sounds of it considering measuring ohms doesnt indicate anything. There must be a way to test them, and not just look at a coil from the outside with a marking and automatically assume its faulty.

Maybe if you have a photo to post of what markings to look for from the outside of the coil stainless steel housing?

 

Ultimately you just have to read the diagnostic trouble codes.

 

After having followed this thread ardently for too long, I find myself with one of two responses. I too cannot "unsee" the girls anatomy and please refer "Monsta" to the proper location in his brain stem which contains his common sense.