SL55 AMG, SL63 AMG, SL65 AMG (R230) 2002 - 2011 (2003 US for SL55 and 2004 for the SL65)

SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Kincaid Killer Chiller SL55 AMG Initial Impressions

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Old Oct 4, 2021 | 06:54 AM
  #1  
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Kincaid Killer Chiller SL55 AMG Initial Impressions

I just got my SL back and wanted to post initial observations with the addition of the KC System (Drag and Race System option) to my 08 SL55.

Mods: 76mm UPD SC pulley, MBH LT headers, Weistec Trunk Tank and RACE IQ tune (Weistec Dual Pass HE, which was removed when KC installed per instructions of Joe Kincaid)

OUTSIDE TEMP: 82-83 degrees, low humidity.
IAT's in town, driving 35-50mph: Previously - 22-30 degrees above ambient. Now - 9-11 degrees below ambient
IAT's on highway, driving 65-80mph with cruise control on: Previously 32-37 degrees above ambient. Now, typically 2-3 degrees below ambientj (saw as much as 6 degrees below).

Biggest surprise was speed of recovery from heat sink, did a 60-120 mph pull - IAT went to 127 degrees and was back at 2-3 degrees below ambient in less than 30 seconds (maybe 25 seconds).

Really pleased with the work by CW Performance in Apex NC. Curt and his team are just fantastic to deal with. All they work on MB and believe me, they know what they're doing.

I really don't know how these results compare to others but wanted to post them and see if anyone has had the same/different experiences.

Bill
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Old Oct 4, 2021 | 05:19 PM
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That is exactly my experience with the same KC with drag valve. I honestly don't know why anyone would want to use air to water heat exchangers when these evaporators work so well. I would however suggest that a temp sensor in the tank with a read out in the cabin is very useful in showing when the KC stalls. An evaporator can't be balanced for both shared refrigerant and with the drag valve opened as the refrigerant volume is doubled when the drag valve is opened.
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Old Oct 6, 2021 | 07:17 AM
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Agreed trabot. I decided not to have the drag/race switch installed since I monitor and data log IAT's constantly, just wanted the greater thermal mass and resultant cooling offered by that particular kit. Therefore trunk tank sensor not needed.

Actually saw 22 degrees below ambient yesterday driving in town. Amazing, improved throttle response is obvious.

No air to water system will ever perform to these levels, system a no brainer for anyone looking to make available the power/performance you paid for.
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Old Oct 6, 2021 | 08:04 AM
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Thank you for sharing your impressions. I have their Race version (not the Drag one with the valve) on order for my M113K swapped R170. I have been a bit conflicted on getting rid of the stock HE or not. Joe advocates for getting it out of there, but seems like it would be nice to use the 3-way valve, and put it back in action, if there is no need for A/C.
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Old Oct 6, 2021 | 09:25 AM
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I initially had mine plumbed to the OEM and a secondary, Weistec HE. Was not getting the cooling results expected. Joe Kincaid advised to disconnect both and said what was happening was the additional residence time getting to the IC was allowing for the fluid to warm up, downstream of the KC but upstream of the IC.

He was right. As soon as it was plumbed absent any HE, expected system cooling results were obtained.

Hope that helps

Bill
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Old Oct 6, 2021 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by nemiro
Thank you for sharing your impressions. I have their Race version (not the Drag one with the valve) on order for my M113K swapped R170. I have been a bit conflicted on getting rid of the stock HE or not. Joe advocates for getting it out of there, but seems like it would be nice to use the 3-way valve, and put it back in action, if there is no need for A/C.
The issue with a heat exchanger is it can only take the intercooler water down to a level still above ambient temp, therefore it is working against the KC which has the water usually below ambient temp and so it gets heated by the heat exchanger.
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Old Oct 6, 2021 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by trabots
The issue with a heat exchanger is it can only take the intercooler water down to a level still above ambient temp, therefore it is working against the KC which has the water usually below ambient temp and so it gets heated by the heat exchanger.
If I kept the stock HE, then I would plumb it with the 3 way valve to be in the loop or not if the KC was active. I'm leaning towards just eliminating it, though. The kit for my car comes with a 1 gallon tank that mounts along the number beam. Kincaid was against having more capacity than this, as he thought the KC would not cool the charge liquid down quickly enough between uses.
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 09:51 AM
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89 SL500 Silver ,97 SL500 Carlsson 04 Mercedes SL55 AMG , 07 Mercedes SL55 AMG convertedBlack series
i have killer chiller also on my SL55 blackseries conversion , but the connectors and all is **** that came from seller Kincaid, used only til the cooler and return, ,0 nada nothing of the **** that came with kit , the socalled drag race valve is 32 usd valve you can buy on internet, and if activate that to cut out cabin aircon ,everything stops up , no instructions on what to do from KC guy , we was welding all connections and had aircon specialist press on real fittings like you se on your orginal aircon hose .
this was around 2018 , and still i wait for what to code away there for use the drag valve.

if i knew what i know today, i would taken Interchiller system.
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Old Nov 7, 2021 | 06:48 AM
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I run a dual KC set up installed in the trunk of my SL55 , around town I’ll see 30-40 deg tank temp below ambient and 15-20 below iat ,way better then water to air ,this is with drag valve , my AC is bone chilling when running both , I used the newer style quick clip hose fittings and did the install myself , only complaint was some customer service issues , wrong hose sent etc , overall very happy with it .
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Old Nov 7, 2021 | 11:59 AM
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what did you code out on the car?
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Old Mar 23, 2025 | 01:49 PM
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So I've had my KC for over 5 years. I'm about ready to junk it and go with a 2 radiator setup as my results are very inconsistent. Unit ONLY seem to cool IAT from a dead stop and then for only 5 seconds or so, then the temp climbs right back up. I mean I'm seeing 40-45 degrees F above ambient. Total bull. And of course I've learned the manufacturer, Kincaid in AZ, has gone out of business.

Buyer beware!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Mar 23, 2025 | 01:55 PM
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Kincaid is a thief, no doubt. I bought their system for my M113K Crossfire. I threw out everything from Kincaid except the core. I made my own A/C lines, cooling setup and tank. Important is making the water lines as short as practical, and then have a tank with at least 2.5 gallons of capacity. The TV valve that comes with the KC is substandard, but the real problem is that it is referenced on the cold water pipe and not the suction line of the A/C side. That is the *real* problem point of the KC. Move that reference over and the thing will finally start working.
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Old Mar 24, 2025 | 02:12 PM
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Thank you for that feedback nemiro. I've sent it on to my performance shop where I'll be taking the car for some work. If they cannot get this KC system working correctly then I'm going to junk it.

Thanks again.

Bill
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Old Mar 24, 2025 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by smithwn55
Thank you for that feedback nemiro. I've sent it on to my performance shop where I'll be taking the car for some work. If they cannot get this KC system working correctly then I'm going to junk it.

Thanks again.

Bill
The big thing you can do, that will cost only time (maybe labor for you) is to get that TV valve reference moved over to the suction line port. I cannot stress this enough. This is absolutely idiotic how they set that thing up, and it will never work properly. The way it is now, the valve will be wide open all of the time, and never close down enough to create the proper pressures in the system. It basically leave the system in "start" mode throughout its whole operation, and never in "run" mode, where it can actually cool properly.
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