SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Parts availability for 2003 SL55 AMG?
04-27-2022, 05:07 PM
#28
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2001 Toyota Sequoia
04-27-2022, 05:16 PM
#29
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Yes, the trunk is not very big and of course, something approaching half the space is taken up by the folded roof.
The diagnostic work for my car has been done. It turned out that the oil leaks were a combination of hydraulic fluid leaking from both sides of the steering rack and also the rear main seal of the engine has failed. To fix that, the transmission has to come out. Some other weeping hydraulic joints, a regular oil service, replacement belts and air filters, replacement steering ball joints, four wheel alignment and on and on.
Total cost (including taxes)? £5850 or $7340. Perhaps I need to revise my 25% maintenance rule of thumb…
The diagnostic work for my car has been done. It turned out that the oil leaks were a combination of hydraulic fluid leaking from both sides of the steering rack and also the rear main seal of the engine has failed. To fix that, the transmission has to come out. Some other weeping hydraulic joints, a regular oil service, replacement belts and air filters, replacement steering ball joints, four wheel alignment and on and on.
Total cost (including taxes)? £5850 or $7340. Perhaps I need to revise my 25% maintenance rule of thumb…
04-27-2022, 05:23 PM
#30
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2001 Toyota Sequoia
Yes, the trunk is not very big and of course, something approaching half the space is taken up by the folded roof.
The diagnostic work for my car has been done. It turned out that the oil leaks were a combination of hydraulic fluid leaking from both sides of the steering rack and also the rear main seal of the engine has failed. To fix that, the transmission has to come out. Some other weeping hydraulic joints, a regular oil service, replacement belts and air filters, replacement steering ball joints, four wheel alignment and on and on.
Total cost (including taxes)? £5850 or $7340. Perhaps I need to revise my 25% maintenance rule of thumb…
The diagnostic work for my car has been done. It turned out that the oil leaks were a combination of hydraulic fluid leaking from both sides of the steering rack and also the rear main seal of the engine has failed. To fix that, the transmission has to come out. Some other weeping hydraulic joints, a regular oil service, replacement belts and air filters, replacement steering ball joints, four wheel alignment and on and on.
Total cost (including taxes)? £5850 or $7340. Perhaps I need to revise my 25% maintenance rule of thumb…
As for 25% rule, maybe if you average out over several years, it may still be 25%.....? Maybe you won't have any issue next year.
04-27-2022, 05:45 PM
#31
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I should add that I negotiated an overall discount on parts and labour of about 15%. The biggest single cost by far is the cost of the steering rack, and it would in theory be possible to have it rebuilt but of course Mercedes will only fit and warrant a brand new part. There are used steering racks on eBay but who knows what condition they are in? So there’s no doubt someone with greater skills than mine could get the job done more cheaply… or should I say less expensively.
04-27-2022, 05:52 PM
#32
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I should add that I negotiated an overall discount on parts and labour of about 15%. The biggest single cost by far is the cost of the steering rack, and it would in theory be possible to have it rebuilt but of course Mercedes will only fit and warrant a brand new part. There are used steering racks on eBay but who knows what condition they are in? So there’s no doubt someone with greater skills than mine could get the job done more cheaply… or should I say less expensively.
What and when was the last repair and how much you paid for it, if I may ask....
04-27-2022, 10:35 PM
#33
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Ignoring routine servicing, the last significant repair was to replace all four hydraulic struts - effectively the ABC shocks - which was done two one year, two the next. The part is around $1500 each including tax and there’s significant work to fit, especially for the front ones. Even now, the car ride height drops on the right hand side if it is not used for a few weeks but then rights itself when started and that has proved difficult to fix.
Thing is, there is so much in this car that can and does go wrong that each owner’s experience is different and it’s always interesting to compare notes when I meet one. “How has it been for you?” I persevere because it’s a striking car to look at, better I think than the later facelift models which we would say here were a bit “bling”. It also has a decent turn of speed at least by the standards of the day but is perhaps seen as an older man’s car here in the UK, I was 47 when I bought mine, I’m 67 in May!
Thing is, there is so much in this car that can and does go wrong that each owner’s experience is different and it’s always interesting to compare notes when I meet one. “How has it been for you?” I persevere because it’s a striking car to look at, better I think than the later facelift models which we would say here were a bit “bling”. It also has a decent turn of speed at least by the standards of the day but is perhaps seen as an older man’s car here in the UK, I was 47 when I bought mine, I’m 67 in May!
04-27-2022, 11:38 PM
#34
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Ignoring routine servicing, the last significant repair was to replace all four hydraulic struts - effectively the ABC shocks - which was done two one year, two the next. The part is around $1500 each including tax and there’s significant work to fit, especially for the front ones. Even now, the car ride height drops on the right hand side if it is not used for a few weeks but then rights itself when started and that has proved difficult to fix.
Thing is, there is so much in this car that can and does go wrong that each owner’s experience is different and it’s always interesting to compare notes when I meet one. “How has it been for you?” I persevere because it’s a striking car to look at, better I think than the later facelift models which we would say here were a bit “bling”. It also has a decent turn of speed at least by the standards of the day but is perhaps seen as an older man’s car here in the UK, I was 47 when I bought mine, I’m 67 in May!
Thing is, there is so much in this car that can and does go wrong that each owner’s experience is different and it’s always interesting to compare notes when I meet one. “How has it been for you?” I persevere because it’s a striking car to look at, better I think than the later facelift models which we would say here were a bit “bling”. It also has a decent turn of speed at least by the standards of the day but is perhaps seen as an older man’s car here in the UK, I was 47 when I bought mine, I’m 67 in May!
I think SL is also considered to be an older man's car here in the States, too. But with AMG badge, it lowers the age. :-|)
996, Cayman, SL55AMG, or keep my C5Z6. I will continue enjoying this process!
05-20-2022, 06:53 PM
#35
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If you want reliability go for a C55 or other NA MB. I had an ‘05 C55 AMG for 5 years. Did only preventative maintenance and it was a fantastic car. I purchased a ‘03 SL55 last fall and I love it. I plan on driving it about 3K miles a year. I’m doing the trans service with conductor plate pre-emptively and will do the ABC fluid change to keep ahead of any repairs. The roof going down is an engineering marvel and is fun to watch other people’s faces when putting it down.
05-21-2022, 01:10 AM
#36
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Following up on this thread, my car is now back from its expensive maintenance at the dealer. They did a good job and it is driving beautifully, better than for many years which I put down to the 4 wheel alignment needed after the steering rack was replaced. It now has to pay for itself and of course I am hoping it will not need anything other than routine maintenance for a while.
Here’s my 10 point guide to R230/SL55 AMG ownership:
1. Cheap to buy, but for a reason.
2. If you are buying, get the car checked over and look for a solid maintenance history, preferably main dealer.
3. Routine maintenance is relatively inexpensive.
4. Other maintenance done properly tends to be expensive in terms of parts and labour.
5. Such maintenance is beyond the abilities of most independents.
6. Limited scope for doing work on it yourself. If you do, you need the tools, time and space.
7. Most important is to keep the trunk dry; keep the C pillar drain holes clear and check the seal across the back of the roof. Run a hose across the back of the car to check for water ingress.
8. Keep the car on a trickle charger (rear battery only) when not in use for more than a few days.
9. If you sense a problem, it’s unlikely to go away and is likely to be expensive to fix.
10. The car is great to drive but less suited now to being a daily driver. It’s for the weekends and trips away.
Here’s my 10 point guide to R230/SL55 AMG ownership:
1. Cheap to buy, but for a reason.
2. If you are buying, get the car checked over and look for a solid maintenance history, preferably main dealer.
3. Routine maintenance is relatively inexpensive.
4. Other maintenance done properly tends to be expensive in terms of parts and labour.
5. Such maintenance is beyond the abilities of most independents.
6. Limited scope for doing work on it yourself. If you do, you need the tools, time and space.
7. Most important is to keep the trunk dry; keep the C pillar drain holes clear and check the seal across the back of the roof. Run a hose across the back of the car to check for water ingress.
8. Keep the car on a trickle charger (rear battery only) when not in use for more than a few days.
9. If you sense a problem, it’s unlikely to go away and is likely to be expensive to fix.
10. The car is great to drive but less suited now to being a daily driver. It’s for the weekends and trips away.
Last edited by blueSL; 05-21-2022 at 01:12 AM.
