SLK/R170: after market xenon lights, anyone know where to get an adaptor?
#1
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after market xenon lights, anyone know where to get an adaptor?
I've been told that our cars need an extra adator for after market hid lights, if not, te head light will not go on at all...
something to do with the wattage or whatever...
anyways, does anyone know whre i can get a set of those adaptors?
Thanks.
something to do with the wattage or whatever...
anyways, does anyone know whre i can get a set of those adaptors?
Thanks.
#2
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It's called a "ballasts". A friend of mine put Xenons in his 96 S500(Low beam only), the original connector plugs into the Xenon ballast and a wire from the ballast plugs into the Xenon bulb, the bulb is a direct replacement for the original bulb.
NP
NP
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no, I don't mean the ballast, the kit comes with the ballast, but the SLk has some sort of voltage regulator that prevents the head light to turn on if the voltage is wrong...
I need a adaptor that "fools" the computer into thinking the volts are still the same.
As far as I know, only the SLK needs an adaptor, CLK, E are all fine with any aftermarket hid.
I need a adaptor that "fools" the computer into thinking the volts are still the same.
As far as I know, only the SLK needs an adaptor, CLK, E are all fine with any aftermarket hid.
#4
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I believe the problem you are refering to is caused by the MB lighting system diagnostic controller. In order for it to "see" a bulb as working, the bulb must draw a minimum percentage of its rated current. The new xenon lights are so electrically efficient (true xenon, not the cheapo fakes), they only draw a small percentage of the current that the factory bulbs do and are thefore seen by the controller as "burnt out bulbs." I believe some versions of the controller will just light an indicator and others will kill power to the burnt bulb.
A friend has an aftermarket automotive electronics shop (alarms, remote starters, etc) who had the same problem and I recommended that he add a 10 ohm, 25 watt resistor or two in parallel with the input to the xeonon ballast (an 8 ohm, 20 watt from Radio Shack, Catalog Number 271-120 will also work). It adds just enough current draw to "fool" the controller into thinking its good a good bulb. He says he has used this "fix" on both BMW and MB and it works great for both.
A friend has an aftermarket automotive electronics shop (alarms, remote starters, etc) who had the same problem and I recommended that he add a 10 ohm, 25 watt resistor or two in parallel with the input to the xeonon ballast (an 8 ohm, 20 watt from Radio Shack, Catalog Number 271-120 will also work). It adds just enough current draw to "fool" the controller into thinking its good a good bulb. He says he has used this "fix" on both BMW and MB and it works great for both.
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Floodydust,
that's it!!!!! Thanks, I will try it tomorrow, I called a company and they were trying to sell me an adaptor that cost $100!!!!
Again, thanks a lot, I owe you man!!!
that's it!!!!! Thanks, I will try it tomorrow, I called a company and they were trying to sell me an adaptor that cost $100!!!!
Again, thanks a lot, I owe you man!!!
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it was offered by www.hid4less.com