SLK/R170: Likely buying an SLK 0n Thursday...
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 5
From: California
2018 E63S AMG, 2003 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 SL 600, 2006 SLK 55 AMG, 1998 E320 Wagon
Likely buying an SLK 0n Thursday...
1999 SLK for sale
Looks like a real deal from what I've seen so far. Carfax checks out, got additional pictures of the car in full form. Flying up on Thursday to likely buy it. Just wanted to see if there's anything in particular I need to look into or watch for. Maintenance records have been kept.
Looks like a real deal from what I've seen so far. Carfax checks out, got additional pictures of the car in full form. Flying up on Thursday to likely buy it. Just wanted to see if there's anything in particular I need to look into or watch for. Maintenance records have been kept.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 421
Likes: 14
From: Bay Area
2004 E500 CLK320
I wrote my a check list after I bought the SLK320 two wks ago.
1. Perfer to have less than 90k mi
2. No white smog from tail pipe after the car is warmed up. If so, blown head gasket.
3. Note that generally high mileage cars mean that they have been driven hard. Many parts need to be replaced after 100k mi: e.g., shocks, water pump, radiator and/or all hoses, thermostat. MAF sensor, idle control valve, blower motor resistor/regulator, window regulators, O2 sensors, ignition coils, alternator, starter and fuel pump could go bad after 100k mi. Replace all fluids: trans, differential, coolant, brake, power steering. Spark plugs replaced every 70k-100k mi.
4. Manual transmission/engine generally rev to higher rpm than automatics due to owners tend to down shift hard or stay in low gear longer, thus creating more stress on the engine and increase the chance of blowing up the head gasket. Do a compression test on each cylinder if possible. Clutch generally replaced every 100k mi, depending on how the car is driven.
4. Check oil leaks around valve covers, power steering, and under car (jack up car)
5. Check water leaks: radiator, water pump
6. Check drive belt.
7. Check ball joints and shocks: Bounce 4 corners of car. Car settles within 1 & 1/2 bounces.
8. Check oil dip stick: should be clean or brown. If black, i.e. no maintenance or long oil change interval. No creamy color, i.e. water in engine.
9. Check uneven tire wear for alignment issue.
10. Check body: any damage or repair done.
11. Carfax
12. Check A/C and heater
13. Check Radio
14. Any engine light on?
15. Look for rash on windshield by looking directly under sunlight. Some cars have driven through the desert many times and the windshields got scarred.
16. Return for 2nd drive on a different day because you always forget to check something on the 1st drive.
17. Start engine cold, look for any rough idling.
18. Take the car for inspection at MB dealer/mechanic is all of the above checked out ok.
19. Get service records. Used car dealers usually don't have the the records. Don't believe anything that comes out of the sales person's mouth. Anything that's promised needs to be in writing or in contract. If buying from used car dealers, and if no warranty is offered, try to negotiate a 1-wk or 1-month bumper-to-bumper warranty.
1. Perfer to have less than 90k mi
2. No white smog from tail pipe after the car is warmed up. If so, blown head gasket.
3. Note that generally high mileage cars mean that they have been driven hard. Many parts need to be replaced after 100k mi: e.g., shocks, water pump, radiator and/or all hoses, thermostat. MAF sensor, idle control valve, blower motor resistor/regulator, window regulators, O2 sensors, ignition coils, alternator, starter and fuel pump could go bad after 100k mi. Replace all fluids: trans, differential, coolant, brake, power steering. Spark plugs replaced every 70k-100k mi.
4. Manual transmission/engine generally rev to higher rpm than automatics due to owners tend to down shift hard or stay in low gear longer, thus creating more stress on the engine and increase the chance of blowing up the head gasket. Do a compression test on each cylinder if possible. Clutch generally replaced every 100k mi, depending on how the car is driven.
4. Check oil leaks around valve covers, power steering, and under car (jack up car)
5. Check water leaks: radiator, water pump
6. Check drive belt.
7. Check ball joints and shocks: Bounce 4 corners of car. Car settles within 1 & 1/2 bounces.
8. Check oil dip stick: should be clean or brown. If black, i.e. no maintenance or long oil change interval. No creamy color, i.e. water in engine.
9. Check uneven tire wear for alignment issue.
10. Check body: any damage or repair done.
11. Carfax
12. Check A/C and heater
13. Check Radio
14. Any engine light on?
15. Look for rash on windshield by looking directly under sunlight. Some cars have driven through the desert many times and the windshields got scarred.
16. Return for 2nd drive on a different day because you always forget to check something on the 1st drive.
17. Start engine cold, look for any rough idling.
18. Take the car for inspection at MB dealer/mechanic is all of the above checked out ok.
19. Get service records. Used car dealers usually don't have the the records. Don't believe anything that comes out of the sales person's mouth. Anything that's promised needs to be in writing or in contract. If buying from used car dealers, and if no warranty is offered, try to negotiate a 1-wk or 1-month bumper-to-bumper warranty.
