SLK/R170: SLK230K alternator removal acc belt tension
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
1999 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 C230K, 1991 190E
SLK230K alternator removal acc belt tension
Trying to remove 1999 SLK230K alternator but acc. belt tension is holding me up. How do I release the tension on that belt so I can get the alternator out?
Thanks
-Ken
Thanks
-Ken
Last edited by kenmsby; Feb 19, 2012 at 07:53 AM. Reason: Update
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
1999 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 C230K, 1991 190E
So there is a 15mm nut in the center of the tensioner pully for the acc. belt to the alternator. However, there is not enough clearance for a short 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet and the electric fan shroud. To remove that shroud you have to pull the radiator overflow after disconnecting the electric fan plug then pull out the scroud from the top. Anyone have a better idea?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
1999 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 C230K, 1991 190E
So actually you're not supposed to turn the tensioner by the nut in the center of the pully, it just loosens the pully. Further research say you're supposed to turn it using the torx bolt which is in that nut. Any one tried this. BTW a pass-thru socket/ratchet does give you enough clearance between the tensioner and the the fan schroud.
Last edited by kenmsby; Feb 20, 2012 at 04:30 AM. Reason: typo
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
1999 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 C230K, 1991 190E
More updates
So it turns out that you cannot put a ratchet on that 15mm nut in the center of the tensioner. You need to use a 8mm E Torx socket on the Torx bolt that is in the center of that nut. Turn it counterclockwise. I went to Sears and got one that had rotating sockets on each end. It gave me the clearance between that tensioner and the fan schroud.
Also note that to get the outside bolt off the alternator you have to remote the section of the air induction tube that that bolt will hit.
I took the alternator to AutoZone and it tested good three times in a row. That was supprising as my issue was that the engine cutout with the lights and heater on while driving about 40mph. I had the same problem in my prior 300E twice and it was the diode block on the alternator both times. I should just replace the VR I guess.
Also note that to get the outside bolt off the alternator you have to remote the section of the air induction tube that that bolt will hit.
I took the alternator to AutoZone and it tested good three times in a row. That was supprising as my issue was that the engine cutout with the lights and heater on while driving about 40mph. I had the same problem in my prior 300E twice and it was the diode block on the alternator both times. I should just replace the VR I guess.
