I previously looked around for instructions on this and found none. So I did it and here is the how to. This DIY is not for the timid, and probably far more trouble than it is worth .... but this will get you there.
NOTE: This is primarily a work-around for cars without factory installed paddle shifters (and their wires) and should work for any model.
Background :
SO, there I was,, I had my (2002 slk32) shifter apart for another reason and noticed how simple it would be to tap into the up and down functions (so I added the wires while I had it apart). Shortly after, I was talking with Rob @ needswings about something else and this topic came up. He told me some guys on the crossfire forum had done this, so I went looking there. It seems that a few had been done, but they were switching to paddle shift equipped wheels and then using a small remote transmitter (as there are too few available circuits in the clockspring).
Having an extra steering wheel (and a basic understanding of digital and analog electronics) I decided to do this in my SLK32 with the stock wheel (without the wireless interface) using the AMG aluminum paddles.
the part number for the switches is 1712670046. This is for a set (right and left) $99 at parts.com
(I opted to install 10-32 helicoils in mine ....)
WARNING:
DON'T turn your car on with the airbag unplugged (this will cause your SRS system to require a dealer reset)
Sorry, I did not take pics of the floor shifter dis-assy. I would strongly recommend starting there. This part is not rocket science, but it takes patience.
Here are some pics of the switch install and the schematic for the module I made (which allows multiple signals on the horn wire) . I put the module under the dash, but it would probably be easier to install next to the K40 relay assy (where the horn wire is easier to find).
Edit 8-17-11 ... noticed the Horn driver's base bias resistor was missing from the drawing so I added it (R11).
I also indicated the clockspring's relative position
NOTE: This is primarily a work-around for cars without factory installed paddle shifters (and their wires) and should work for any model.
Background :
SO, there I was,, I had my (2002 slk32) shifter apart for another reason and noticed how simple it would be to tap into the up and down functions (so I added the wires while I had it apart). Shortly after, I was talking with Rob @ needswings about something else and this topic came up. He told me some guys on the crossfire forum had done this, so I went looking there. It seems that a few had been done, but they were switching to paddle shift equipped wheels and then using a small remote transmitter (as there are too few available circuits in the clockspring).
Having an extra steering wheel (and a basic understanding of digital and analog electronics) I decided to do this in my SLK32 with the stock wheel (without the wireless interface) using the AMG aluminum paddles.
the part number for the switches is 1712670046. This is for a set (right and left) $99 at parts.com
(I opted to install 10-32 helicoils in mine ....)
WARNING:
DON'T turn your car on with the airbag unplugged (this will cause your SRS system to require a dealer reset)
Sorry, I did not take pics of the floor shifter dis-assy. I would strongly recommend starting there. This part is not rocket science, but it takes patience.
Here are some pics of the switch install and the schematic for the module I made (which allows multiple signals on the horn wire) . I put the module under the dash, but it would probably be easier to install next to the K40 relay assy (where the horn wire is easier to find).
Edit 8-17-11 ... noticed the Horn driver's base bias resistor was missing from the drawing so I added it (R11).
I also indicated the clockspring's relative position
MBWorld Fanatic!
how much would you charge to do this to my 32 wheel?
Quote:
Sadly, i have no shortage of money ... just a shortage of time. (and I'm on to the next project already)Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
how much would you charge to do this to my 32 wheel?
I can post some more pictures and answer any questions you may have.
I may entertain the idea of building a small run of the modules, but I would rather others build them (and i am happy to provide any info that would help).
here are a couple more pics,
Chris
MBWorld Fanatic!
entertain away!! let me know the cost for the module and a step by step directions. im handy with a wrench but not much of an electronics guy. if your flush with cash ill certainly let you build it for me free!! 

Quote:
I can post some more pictures and answer any questions you may have.
I may entertain the idea of building a small run of the modules, but I would rather others build them (and i am happy to provide any info that would help).
here are a couple more pics,
Chris
I wish I was as sad as you Originally Posted by latemodel21
Sadly, i have no shortage of money ... just a shortage of time. (and I'm on to the next project already)I can post some more pictures and answer any questions you may have.
I may entertain the idea of building a small run of the modules, but I would rather others build them (and i am happy to provide any info that would help).
here are a couple more pics,
Chris

Quote:
thanks
the part number for the paddle switches is for a set of two.Originally Posted by nsxguy
Would the part numbers you mentioned work on the SL model?thanks
I have seen them referred to as the E63 paddles, however, the "171" at the beginning suggests that it was first used on an R171. I have seen these fitted to various sl's ... and I thought I also saw these (this part number) also referred to as the "SL65 paddles".
search google with this part number and your model and see what you come up with.
If your wheel has no paddles at all, these should be easy enough to fit.
Chris
Member
Thanks 

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ExploreUpdate 9-8-2011
For some reason, this site stopped letting me edit (over 2 weeks ago) .
I have improved the circuit by changing the output section and adding a circuit that turns off the output when the car is in any gear other than drive. (also, there are a couple of components that were miss-labeled in the schematic)
I really wanted to correct it .... However, with the exception of one "super moderator" who responded by suggesting I contact someone else, my attempts to contact ANYONE at MB WORLD in order to allow me to edit my original post have gone completely unanswered. (6 emails and PM's to both of the site administrators and a site founder .... unanswered).
Very disappointing ...
Perhaps this is part of the reason why the other MBZ forum gets so much more traffic
P.s.
The Helicoil callout in the first post of this thread should have been 8-32
For some reason, this site stopped letting me edit (over 2 weeks ago) .
I have improved the circuit by changing the output section and adding a circuit that turns off the output when the car is in any gear other than drive. (also, there are a couple of components that were miss-labeled in the schematic)
I really wanted to correct it .... However, with the exception of one "super moderator" who responded by suggesting I contact someone else, my attempts to contact ANYONE at MB WORLD in order to allow me to edit my original post have gone completely unanswered. (6 emails and PM's to both of the site administrators and a site founder .... unanswered).
Very disappointing ...
Perhaps this is part of the reason why the other MBZ forum gets so much more traffic
P.s.
The Helicoil callout in the first post of this thread should have been 8-32
absent
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Quote:
For some reason, this site stopped letting me edit (over 2 weeks ago) .
I have improved the circuit by changing the output section and adding a circuit that turns off the output when the car is in any gear other than drive. (also, there are a couple of components that were miss-labeled in the schematic)
I really wanted to correct it .... However, with the exception of one "super moderator" who responded by suggesting I contact someone else, my attempts to contact ANYONE at MB WORLD in order to allow me to edit my original post have gone completely unanswered. (6 emails and PM's to both of the site administrators and a site founder .... unanswered).
Very disappointing ...
Perhaps this is part of the reason why the other MBZ forum gets so much more traffic
P.s.
The Helicoil callout in the first post of this thread should have been 8-32
There is a time limit for editing.Originally Posted by latemodel21
Update 9-8-2011For some reason, this site stopped letting me edit (over 2 weeks ago) .
I have improved the circuit by changing the output section and adding a circuit that turns off the output when the car is in any gear other than drive. (also, there are a couple of components that were miss-labeled in the schematic)
I really wanted to correct it .... However, with the exception of one "super moderator" who responded by suggesting I contact someone else, my attempts to contact ANYONE at MB WORLD in order to allow me to edit my original post have gone completely unanswered. (6 emails and PM's to both of the site administrators and a site founder .... unanswered).
Very disappointing ...
Perhaps this is part of the reason why the other MBZ forum gets so much more traffic
P.s.
The Helicoil callout in the first post of this thread should have been 8-32
Newbie
I have a sequentronic transmission to instal in my G wagon, it is the 716.645 out of a sprinter w906. I wonder if anybody can shine some light on the steps or if there is a kit available to make my conversion, it is going to be mated to a om606 turbo diesel,
Quote:
Feel free to send me an email ... Latemodel21@yahoo.com . I will be happy to share info that might help you get this working. Originally Posted by John Vega
I have a sequentronic transmission to instal in my G wagon, it is the 716.645 out of a sprinter w906. I wonder if anybody can shine some light on the steps or if there is a kit available to make my conversion, it is going to be mated to a om606 turbo diesel,
Cheers and stay safe,
Chris














