AMGDave

I recently removed my K-Mac rear camber kit. I had only installed the camber portion in the lower control arm (LCA). I had never installed the other portion for the tie rods (which allows additional toe adjustment, required when you have made a significant camber change). The camber bushings are in excellent shape, they were only on the car for 7kmi. The adjustable tie rod bushings are band new, never used. You need the adjustable tie rod bushings to get the rear toe spec correct after adjusting camber.

Please note that since these are polyurethane bushings, they can squeak slightly... you only hear it with the window down, at low speeds, going over a bump (for example, a speed bump in a parking lot). The squeak cannot be heard from inside the car with the windows up. K-Mac includes a small packet of white grease for the bushings which is supposed to prevent the sqeak, this lubricant is included (not shown in photo - it's inside the box). I decided to try the RDMTEK rear camber correction kit, which is non-adjustable, and is more expensive ($250 for camber alone, plus an additional $240 for modified tie rods)... but it uses stock rubber bushings which are silent.

Please note that I am selling a pair of complete LCA with bushings already installed, as shown in the photos. This will save you at least 2 hours of labor... it is a HUGE pain to remove the stock bushings from the LCA so you can install the K-Mac bushings!! Photos are shown below.

These will fit all 124's except wagons, as well as most 129, 170, 202, 203, 208, 209, and 210 chassis.

$200 for everything, free shipping in the USA.







Best regards,

kcheng86

soo this will fit a 2003 c class rigght?? does it work like camber arms? or it just for the toes

TruTaing

It does the same thing camber arms would do, but from a different angle. In the end, they both alter the camber of your rear wheels.

Question: do those lower control arms work on other cars? They look a lot like w203 rear lower control arms.

AMGDave

Correct. The difference being, the typical aftermarket adjustable camber arms push the top of the wheel out, which can cause tire-to-fender clearance issues if you're running wide wheels. And, most of these arms have no-friction Heim joints, which is not a good thing... the bonded rubber bushings in the stock camber arm provide a torsional resistance, when this is removed, it can hose up the suspension action. I tried a set of those link and got significantly more wheel hop during a burnout. I don't recommend them at all.

The K-Mac kit pulls the bottom of the wheel in to reduce negative camber, so it doesn't affect tire clearance much if at all. And although it is replacing a bonded rubber bushing, it's only one, not two. I had much less problem with wheel hop after going to K-Mac. I just wasn't crazy about the slight squeaking. The RDM TEK solution is really the best, but it's more expensive, and not adjustable.



Yep, should be the same on all the chassis listed above. You can double-check in the EPC to make sure your exact year/model uses the identical LCA's though.

TruTaing

If I hadn't just ordered a new set of LCAs with stock bushings installed, I would have bought these off of ya. I like the idea of being able to push/pull the lower portion of my wheel in/out some more, not to mention the simplicity of the kmac bushings. Even if it creates a bit of noise, I bet it could be easily remedied with some waterproof synthetic grease.

versatile and high quality product

omegabenz6

Tru, you should consider either the kmac kit (bump for dave) or the RDMTEK shortened MB lower control arm for your w203. From the picture it looks like you have quite a bit of negative camber in the back. How long do your tires last?


btw, dave is right, those kmac bushings are hard to install, but he already did it. =)

TruTaing

I have K1MS adjustable camber arms installed, but the picture is not updated... Oh the days of being tucked in the rear are long gone now

blackbenzz

Will those arms fit an 01 CLK55?

AMGDave

Assuming that's a 208.374 chassis, then yes, the EPC indicates it uses the same lower control arm (p/n 202-350-02-06), so it should bolt right up.

FYI, if you only want the LCA's with camber bushings, I'll sell those separately for $100/set. The adjustable tie rod bushings weren't needed on my car at aprpox -1.25° rear camber. If your car is reeeaaaally lowered and/or you want a lot of positive correction, then you'll need to install the adjustable tie rod bushings as well. They're a pain to install though. The LCA's with the bushings already installed save you a LOT of work... trust me!

blackbenzz

How long do these bushings usually last? Thanks. My car has the KW's turned all the way down in the rear and I want to go lower LOL. My contact patch is horrible though, front is even worse

AMGDave

That's a good question - I honestly have NO idea. The polyurethane should last a long time, and you can take them apart to clean & grease them. I had these on my car for almost 7kmi and there was no visible wear...

blackbenzz

Alright, I guess I'll gamble and take them off your hands. If I need the tie rod bushings can I buy just those form kmac in the future if you no longer have them?

AMGDave

Unfortunately, no, I don't think so... K-Mac only sells the complete kit, to my knowledge. BTW, you will need to get a dealer alignment as soon as these are installed, and you'll need to tell the tech what rear camber specs you want. In general it's a good idea to try and match the front, and/or shoot for about -1.00°.

AMGDave

The kit has been sold - thanks for the interest!