Anyone have experience installing the lower spring pads?

I'm about to put on the #1 and #2 pads, to lower the Beast just a bit. I've read the other threads here recommending the pads, but haven't seen any practical tips on the installation.

Main advice I was seeking was on using the spring compression tool (ie: safety) and best sequence to follow.

Cheers,

E55Bliss

 

Are you doing the work yourself?

 

Yes, save $200 labor + learning exp.

I got the spring compressor tool(s) from OReily's and have the jack stands. I will be learning as I go, looking for any tips from someone who's done it before.

Have you switched out yours for the shorter ones?

 

e55bliss, I have 3 bump pads all around and considered using 1 bump pads. However, the first time I had 5 passengers in the car and a empty trunk I could feel the suspension bottoming out. So any lower without the benefit of stiffer springs may be bad. I use my car for road trips with the family and luggage.

 

I've got to try it, after seeing one the other day lowered slightly I can't resist. I'll rarely have 5 people in the car. If it seems too low I will be expert in changing pads!

 

first off, changing spring pads without changing the springs will not lower your car that much. i don't think it will even be visible. it is in millimeters, which is not noticeable.

the spring pad is located at the top of the spring, so the most difficult part is removing the spring. it depends on the spring compressor that you have. the really good ones are the ones mentioned on other posts that consists of 2 plates and cost like $500...the cheapo ones (long thread with 2 hooks on each end)from the local parts store will not work (i've tried). from what i've read, if you have the right spring compressors, it is not too difficult and less than 1 hr.

the other method to remove the front springs is to drop the lower A arm that the spring rests upon. this is a tiresome task for DIYers with only jack stands. i have done this twice, but it takes a couple of hours each time and it's a little bit more complicated to explain...(do not recommend)

 

Thanks Brabus,

One of the managers (maybe the owner) at Oberklasse (local Merc aftermarket company) told me earlier to use the threaded spring compressors, althought it does look tricky since the space is tight.

When you tried, were you able to crank the springs down at all? You are supposed to brace both sides of the spring, not sure if there is room.

It looks a bit dangerous trying to work on top of compressed springs, to say the least. I'll have a go at it now, and give in to the $200 labor if it looks too daunting.

E55Bliss

 

I have heard that even though it's a difference of a few mm in the measurement displayed for the part, that it produces up to a 3/4", and from one witness, a 1", difference...?

 

the spring compressor i tried from the parts store has a long threaded rod with 2 hooks on the top and 2 hooks on the bottom. theoretically you're suppose to hook 2 on the top of your spring and 2 on the bottom of your spring from inside the spring and turn it with a socket to tighten and thus shorten the springs. this tool will not work with our cars.

first off, the top of our front springs are mounted and installed within this hole/housing (which is part of the body of the car-sorry i don't know the technical term to describe it). but the point is: 3 coils of the spring is hidden, not accessible to be compressed. then the hooks are kind of bulky and hard to get inside of the spring itself. and you obviously can't hook to the first coil on the bottom, so right there you lose another 1-2 coils. so after you finally get the tool on, you are compressing maybe 3/4 of the spring. it is darn hard to tighten b/c the spring obviously has play and starts to shift and move horizontally while the tool is sliding and slipping. this is where there is potential danger for the tool to come off. i actually 'broke' the compressor b/c the center rod got bent and deformed due to the pressure. even if you're able to manage through all of this and fully compress those coils within the tool, you still will not be able to get the spring out of its housing. b/c those 3 coils on top and 1-2 coils at bottom are still fully extended. so it is fruitless...

i would say, take it to the shop. but i don't know if it is worth your money to just change the spring pad.

i do not agree that you will see 3/4 to 1 inch drop. how can a few mm difference prior to installation translate to inches after installation. think about it, an E55 is not even one inch lower than a regular E. how can changing a $10 part make a non-AMG car lower than an E55?

 

Yeah, I have cancelled it. I found out the hard way, before reading your reply. It looks impossible to get enough compression to bring down the top of the spring enough to clear the housing and switch out the pad. Plus, every turn of the wrench I'm trying to guess which metal part is going to fly out at me travelling 300mph once the tool gives up - more suspense than I care for. I do appreciate all ten of my fingers.

I was trying to go the less expensive route for just a slight lowering vs. buying all new springs. The Kleeman suspension kit I think are over $1000. Are there substitute springs that are known to be good that I could pickup for less? My aim is to lower it 1 to 1.25".

E55Bliss

1999 E55

 

Yes, you can compress the spring enough to change the pads, it just requires the proper spring compressor. You have several choice in comppressors (Klann, Hazet, SirTools...) , all of which are very safe. Do a search and you will find some pictures.

I have done several W210 spring and/or pad changes, so I know the proper compressor can do this. Check PerformanceProducts, they rent the one by SirTools.

 

I think our best option for lowering the car would be to get those H&R springs, Performance Products sell them for 369.00/set of 4

How difficult is it to install them?

 

if you have the proper spring compressor like KWiK is referring to, it is not difficult and much safer.

the H&Rs would definitely lower by more than 1.25 inches, more than e55bliss wants. but tons cheaper than kleeman.

 

He probably should go with the Euro Spec springs.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ghlight=e55mkb

E-mail is Gert@carnewal.com and the AMG part numbers are:

$240+ US Dollars
A2103213204 Frnt springs
A2103243804 Rear springs

Or can't he just buy the Kleeman springs? They are less than $400 right? The struts are what cost a grip.

 

e55bliss if you are on a budget just get H&R springs. If you do a search on this board you will find the different spring pad measurements. There is a 5-8mm difference between each from memory.

 

Try the Vogtland springs, 40mm drop and a good price, $245 .

I have these on my "C", check out my short review

 

As I am digging deeper into this topic I'm courious to find out about cutting my springs, somebody suggested that; once I get my car back I'll start studying the possibility and may be end up buying new springs, but there is a chance it will work.

 

Cutting springs is what you do if aftermarket springs are not available for your car. Not recommended.

 

 

Thank you all. I have research to do now. If you have any shots of your lowered E55 please post. I saw some in other threads I will go back through to get ideas.

I have the #3 in front (seems to be the spec for US). For those who have compressed the spring and switched this #3 to #1 - can you say how much it lowered the car?

The lowering I'm after will put the wheel close to the body but not too low to cause rubbing or bottoming out.

E55Bliss