Nocturnal-G

ROFLMFAO... not really. Well kinda, I got my oil changed with Royal Purple.

My car is now getting 16 MPG, from 12-13!! So that's the good news.

Now bad news... My car's FSS says "Reduce Oil Level" (which is pretty basic to understand)... then I recheck it and it says "Engine Level O.K." then I check it again and it says "Perf. Serv. On Time" (this isn't in the owners manual). And usually it keeps giving me the "Reduce Oil Level" or "Perf. Serv. On Time".

On top of that, today when coming to a stop at a red light (the car was in Drive), my car shook violently... but it didn't happen again. What gives? I actually got happy that the car would give me a check engine light... but it didn't. So yup.

Any ideas guys? Thanks!



PS. After flooring it and letting off... the RPM's stay high. I hope that's normal. LOL

1 BAD BURB

damn dude, you must drive that thing hard!!! i get a minimum of 20mpg in mine. road trips or lots of freeway gives 22mpg. you might want to run some fuel injector cleaner!

as for the oil level, i dunno. did you fill up the full 8qts?

i dunno what the roughness or rpm sticking would be caused by... Most people on here have issues with their MAFs, have you cleaned or replaced yours yet? if not, could be the cause of the rough idle.

Aj

zoink

I could be wrong.... but IIRC,

You would get "reduce oil level" if you measure the oil right after hard run or after a prolonged driving.

The correct way of measuring oil, IMO, is to wait until the engine is cold (overnight preferred), warm the car for like 3-5 minutes or drive about 3 miles (easy driving), stop the car on leveled surface and measure it.

"Performed service on time" is just an indicator that a service is due.

JamE55

More importantly is the driver normal? LOL

jimmydagreek

We'll see on Saturday Jamestraightjacket, lol...

JamE55

AuntJIMima always makin jokes. LOL

jimmydagreek

Bwaaaaaaaaahahahaha, lmao...

JamE55

Nocturnal-G

Well yeah today was a new day... and as the new day came. The car shook on half of every red light/stop signs I stopped at. I drove 33 miles and got 13 MPG. Seems like something is fishy. Oh and I drove like a grandma just so it wouldn't waste gas.

And yeah I did run fuel injector cleaner in the car before.

I'm really leaning on it being MAF-related or O2-sensor related. I'm tired of spending money on it without it giving me a damn OBDII code. Stupid CEL won't even do it's job. It's come to the point where I'm going to unplug that damn MAF and see how the car runs. LOL

SleepersRock

It would be interesting to see what happens, especially if MAF realted. I have noticed that it takes much longer to get the torque blast on an open freeway after flooring it. Someone on here mentioned that if it takes longer than 2 seconds to feel the blast then the MAFs are bad.

The interesting thing to note (a la Nocturnal) is that this reduced time for the torque blast has corresponded with a drop in my MPG from a consistent 22 to a consistent 20 despite no altering of my driving behavior.

Let us know what happens after the MAF is changed.

Nocturnal-G

Yeah... I'm going to unplug it first, see if there is any changes. If not, then I really don't know because without a code... it can be a million things. So yup, I would say I have torque delay too when flooring it... I haven't counted but it doesn't blast right away... maybe 2 seconds after. So I gotta test that theory too.

Nocturnal-G

Well I just got back from my "Automotive Adventure"

Basically I couldn't pull that damn plug off the MAF... so I just sprayed the MAF with electronic cleaner hoping something would change... well there was differences. The idle was still rough but smooth'd out, not by much. The car got more responsive... and last but not least... after spraying the MAF and starting the car, the RPM's jumped up in the 2-3k area. So yeah... pretty much it. I really need to find out what this damn problem is though... robbing my gas. I think it's robbing my power too. But I dunno since I bought the car with the problem and never noticed. LOL it's ok though, I just can't wait to get it fixed.

JamE55

Young padiwan,

Do you have an OBDII reader? If so have you used it to detect the codes or even after pluging in the reader the codes would still not show?

If you don't have a reader i can let you borrow mine and see what that code is. Most likely it's a MAF problem since the car is shaking when stopped at a red light.

I think it's robbing more of your wallet than your fuel. LOL Let me know.

1 BAD BURB

you can't just "spray" the maf to clean it. you would need to remove it from the car and really spray it down with the cleaner. might want to search on that! or go buy a new one.

do this, after the car is warmed up, disconnect the maf, see how she reacts. the car should go into closed loop mode, and no longer rely on the maf to send the air codes. (this is true on my two american cars, dunno about german). if the car behaves in a better manner, its prolly your maf and you need to change it.

if not that, perhaps its plugs and wires? time for a change on those puppies regardless of what MB says, 100K miles my ***....

Aj

Nocturnal-G

ROFLMFAO... yeah JaMAFe55 ( ) I plugged in a code reader on multiple occasions (AutoZone) and never got codes. I also had Jimmy's mechanic check for codes too and nothing came up. And yeah it's robbing my wallet big time... already spent alot just changing random "suspects". LOL

Nocturnal-G

ROFLMFAOOOOOOOO... If I could get that damn plug off. HAHA, I already changed wires and plugs... after changing wires and plugs the car was much better... until last night when the car shook at red lights and stop signs. LOL

JamE55

That's pretty funny Nocturnal-GSpot! LOL

That's weird how it's not able to read codes. I'm assuming the that reader from AutoZone is still in working condition? Let me know on saturday and maybe we can try mine and see if it works. If not just replace the MAF(about $200 and change or so) and you should be good to go.

Nocturnal-G

ROFLMFAOOOOOOOO

I guess if you want to bring yours on Saturday so we can try it... go for it, but I doubt it'll work ... I need to look over fuses, or as I'm told. HAHA, eh. And I'm really hoping it is the MAF.

jeff.bisonett

maf cleaners can help... but a new maf feels like 200 hp... doooo it

Nocturnal-G

If that's my problem, then I'll buy one... but I don't feel like spending anymore money for no reason. But 200 HP sounds good to me!!

JamE55

Do you know if the previous owner of that car has ever replaced the MAF? If not then just buy one and get it over with.

Nocturnal-G

Actually I don't know because the car has a bunch of owners. LOL... but that's on my to-do list now. I'm hoping that's the reason it's giving me that shaking.

JamE55

So you're like what? The 999999999 owner? LOL Just buy one and get it over with. No use cutting corners with these cars.

Nocturnal-G

ROFLMFAO actually I'm the 5th or 6th according to the carfax... but she found a loving owner. I'll never get rid of her, she's been too good to me.

I love her.

Quadcammer

You've got that the wrong way around. Upon start up, the computer is in open loop (i.e. reading off of fuel tables for coolant temps, iat, throttle position, etc.). Upon reaching a set coolant temp (160 degrees for my mustang), it switches to closed loop and will rely on the maf and the 02 sensors to keep a/f at 14.7. Upon approximately 85% throttle, the computer goes back into open loop, and you get your commanded a/f and timing, but the MAF is still reading the air flow.

When you disconnect the maf, you get into the failed maf tables, which are different all together.