W210 AMG Discuss the W210 AMG's such as the E50, E55, and E60

Brake Light Switch ABS/BAS/ESP

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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 01:27 AM
  #26  
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'12 Mustang 5.0, '89 Supra Turbo, C55,
Originally Posted by fosmith
SBC was used on the earlier W211 cars, right? Not in the W210.

Fred
Correct.
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #27  
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99 W210 E55
damn add me to the list.. i just got this errror and some vibration in my brake pedal..

i swapped out the brake switch last night.. and took it for a spin no more errror messages thank god!!

but i still have some vibration in my brake pedal... help please... anyone go thru this?
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 01:08 PM
  #28  
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I am not sure I should be putting in my 2 cents on your 99 E55 because I have a 2003 E55...but here goes: When I had some strange issues with my brake pedal feel it ended up being the airmatic shocks. Don't rush out and change them...but you might want to inspect them and see if the car is losing height in the front. My front passenger airmatic shock was losing air and the rubber seal had a small hole. I replaced both with a great rebuilt set from a company in Florida for only $499 each vrs. $1k + at the dealership. The rebuilt ones have much thicker rubber and will last much longer than stock but perhaps the ride is a little harsher! I hope this helps you or someone.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CaymanE55
I am not sure I should be putting in my 2 cents on your 99 E55 because I have a 2003 E55...but here goes: When I had some strange issues with my brake pedal feel it ended up being the airmatic shocks. Don't rush out and change them...but you might want to inspect them and see if the car is losing height in the front. My front passenger airmatic shock was losing air and the rubber seal had a small hole. I replaced both with a great rebuilt set from a company in Florida for only $499 each vrs. $1k + at the dealership. The rebuilt ones have much thicker rubber and will last much longer than stock but perhaps the ride is a little harsher! I hope this helps you or someone.

I think his 99'' had coil springs and shocks . my 2001 doesnt have airmatic ride .
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 03:31 AM
  #30  
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99 W210 E55
thanks for the advice yea unfortunately im on sprinks and shocks

lil update i still have the problem
its not from rotors or pads its my abs unit...

ive disconnected my abs so basically driving around in dyno mode... car actually feels way better in dyno mode lol

but anyways in dyno mode i get no pause no vibration in the pedals brakes are nice and smooth how it should be

im thinkin i have to replace the lines that run underneath the car... because this started happening after i got stuck on some rails and i think maybe the lines got pinched and is makin the abs go haywire...

anyone else have any advice? or have done repairs to their abs unit?

thanks in advance
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #31  
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I just had this happen to me today.

Looks like I'm going to be driving my POS Durango until I get this taken care of.

BTW, 2003 was the first year for Airmatic on the E Class.
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #32  
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When this light comes in, is there a deterioration in braking?
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 12:09 AM
  #33  
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I didn't notice any but i also took it easy. I was only a mile from home when it happened as well (4 stops including getting into the driveway). The lights did go away with a restart.

I took the car out a little while ago and the problem didn't happen again. I'm still going to replace the brake light switch on it anyways. It's cheap and at least will let me know if something else is going on.

Now if I could just figure out the vibration that I randomly have. It seems like it started when I got the car lowered (everything is installed correctly) so the stock springs are going back on in a few weeks.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 02:32 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by gnma
When this light comes in, is there a deterioration in braking?
Well, you will loose traction control. Depending on the driving situation it could be dangerous.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 02:37 PM
  #35  
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From: Bostonian Ma
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Originally Posted by Strigoi
I didn't notice any but i also took it easy. I was only a mile from home when it happened as well (4 stops including getting into the driveway). The lights did go away with a restart.

I took the car out a little while ago and the problem didn't happen again. I'm still going to replace the brake light switch on it anyways. It's cheap and at least will let me know if something else is going on.

Now if I could just figure out the vibration that I randomly have. It seems like it started when I got the car lowered (everything is installed correctly) so the stock springs are going back on in a few weeks.
Exactly... brake light switch is a very easy job and not expensive. (process of elimination right)

As, you know once a car is lowered it adds stress to the front end. I would check for any play in the front end before going back to stock as it would stink if the vibration didn't go away after going back to stock.

my .55 cents

Armani
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #36  
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I've got new ball joints and lower control arm bushings in the front end right now, I doubt it's those.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #37  
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99 W210 E55
yo Strigoi when u get the vibration in the brakes does it like pause to as your stepping down?

imma replace the lines i think they might have gotten pinched...
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 05:04 PM
  #38  
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From: Bostonian Ma
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Originally Posted by Strigoi
I've got new ball joints and lower control arm bushings in the front end right now, I doubt it's those.
hmm... good brand I assume? sway bar links, tire rods inner and outer. + check any bushings, upper/lower control arms good. Any of those little pesky things can cause vibration. Rotors good? I know mine are shot and they are causing vibration 30 - 60 without braking. My girls car which is a lex is250 30k miles and it would shake just like mine when on the highway at those same speeds or faster. It was also diagnosed by lex with warped rotors.

My steering wheel shakes even more when hard stopping, it goes nutz. I'll prob. won't even do the rotors till next spring as winter is around the corner and I keep the car in the garage. (she got enough work to her done this year)
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:48 PM
  #39  
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I've got the Meyle ball joints and Lemfoerder control arm bushings.

Just to clarify, my vibration is not related to the brakes at all. They need to be done soon, but they're still smooth.

I'm also thinking it might be tire related (Nitto NT55's with about 2,000 miles on them). I'll probably try swapping my stock wheels back on before changing any other parts just to eliminate that.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #40  
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From: Bostonian Ma
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Originally Posted by Strigoi
I've got the Meyle ball joints and Lemfoerder control arm bushings.

Just to clarify, my vibration is not related to the brakes at all. They need to be done soon, but they're still smooth.

I'm also thinking it might be tire related (Nitto NT55's with about 2,000 miles on them). I'll probably try swapping my stock wheels back on before changing any other parts just to eliminate that.
keep up posted. Would be good to know what it could be. I for one HATE vibrations.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #41  
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I will for sure.

I also picked up a new brake light switch today. $35 at the stealer for it. I didn't feel like buying it online just to save a few bucks.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Strigoi
I will for sure.

I also picked up a new brake light switch today. $35 at the stealer for it. I didn't feel like buying it online just to save a few bucks.
I also heard some folks having issues with the ones online. So you made right move.

Not worth the headaches.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #43  
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I am now having the same issue. My dealer wants 44$ for the part. Is there somewhere online that is recommended?
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #44  
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It seams like some dealerships charge between $35-$45...but for trying to save $10-$20 online and getting a unreliable substitute! I would not take the risk.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #45  
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Thanks!
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #46  
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2001 E430
Still have ABS lights...

***Update*** Checked the brake light fuse, and it was smoked. Thought I had checked it before, but was pulling the wrong one... No more warning lights!!!

Hi all-

Thanks to the great tutorial, I was able to replace my brake light switch ($24 at Walnut Creek MBZ). I started the car, excited to (not) see the ABS warnings, etc. No joy. Still have the warning as soon as the brake pedal is touched, and no brake lights. Next steps anyone?

Cheers-Jeff

Last edited by Jdeuel; Mar 15, 2012 at 01:51 PM. Reason: I'm a bonehead.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:49 PM
  #47  
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From: Bostonian Ma
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Originally Posted by Jdeuel
***Update*** Checked the brake light fuse, and it was smoked. Thought I had checked it before, but was pulling the wrong one... No more warning lights!!!

Hi all-

Thanks to the great tutorial, I was able to replace my brake light switch ($24 at Walnut Creek MBZ). I started the car, excited to (not) see the ABS warnings, etc. No joy. Still have the warning as soon as the brake pedal is touched, and no brake lights. Next steps anyone?

Cheers-Jeff
Glad to hear you got it worked out
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Old May 10, 2012 | 11:27 PM
  #48  
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Just wanted to thank Armani... did mine today.

I only took 3 screws out though... couldn't find the 4th? lol.
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Old May 11, 2012 | 12:09 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Jdeuel

Thanks to the great tutorial, I was able to replace my brake light switch ($24 at Walnut Creek MBZ). I started the car, excited to (not) see the ABS warnings, etc. No joy. Still have the warning as soon as the brake pedal is touched, and no brake lights. Next steps anyone?
Mercedes Benz of Walnut Creek in CA? That's where I got mine and had to pay more. I wonder if they charge less for the E430 ones.
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #50  
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R129 500SL
I have a w210 CDI estate 2003 UK spec red

For quite a while my ESP BAS light has been glowing so no cruise control but what I did not know was that I had no brake lights working
I had it plugged in and they suggested a new brake switch
I replaced the switch and checked the fuse to the brake lights ( fuse ok)

On restarting the car the warning lights remained on and the brake lights were still out.
But after several hours and restarting the car the warning lights went out and the brake lights worked correctly.

This only lasted 2 days and I am now back to square one with warning lights back on and no brake lights !!!!!!

Any bright ideas ???
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