Engine mounts
Fabio Daniel
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Anyone have insight on if you can put the newer model ones on ours?
I will take pictures of the new vs drivers ruptured vs passenger side with 29K/10yrs and post them early next month.
It should be a two hour DIY job with no complications and for $120 (a couple of bottles of good wine) its not the end of the world if you have to replace them every five years or so.
As far as I know the Lemforders are just as good as any others.
Anyone have insight on if you can put the newer model ones on ours?
It's easier than u think.
Anyone have insight on if you can put the newer model ones on ours?
5000km on them so far so good.
ive figured if OEMS are deemed to fail so often whey spend 189$a mount OEM and give aftermarket a shot at 100$ vs both.
First picture is a normal passenger side mount, the next two pictures show a ruptured driver's side mount as is evidenced by the orange rust color surrounding the area of the mount, this after some prior washing of this area.
The next picture show a new green bushing I installed on the transmission shifter lever. Fairly easy install, don't know how it went missing, perhaps wear but the retainer clip was still in place. This condition gives a rattle when you accelerate, most notably when you are accelerating hard.
The last picture I am hoping someone has an idea where to look for this leaking fluid. I have now cleaned the area and once all repairs are completed will start the engine and start looking for the leak. All suggestions welcomed.
As I said before, once the motor mounts are out of the car I will take some comparitive pictures.
The green bushing in the shifter lever is not missing, it would broken & lost.. in all 124, 202, 210, 163 & few others.
not a major job in this site, but sometimes is pretty hard to install the new one in the gear box selector! HECK! i think you see the other one.!! hahahahaClean engine! how i like
congratsFabio Daniel
The first picture shows the side-by-side comparison of the passengers side old versus new on the left and the drivers side on the right.
The next picture shows the passengers side old versus new. Notice the difference in the height of the mounts, very significant.
The last picture shows the ruptured driver's side mount and the leaking fluid.
The replacement job was not that difficult. You need ramps and jacks to be safe for sure and a good jack to jack the engine up. I placed a 2x4 under the oil pan with no problems.
The procedure was pretty much what I followed on my 300CE:
Loosen the transmission mount bolts
Loosen the lower mount bolts
Loosen the top mount bolts (here you need a very strong arm, I had to have my strong arm neighbor come help as I just did not have the strength to break loose the bolts that were installed with blue loctite at the factory)
Remove the lower bolts
Jack the engine up sufficiently to remove the top bolts and remove the old mounts
Install the new mounts first with the upper bolt making sure you put the key on the mount into the slot on the mount bracket and that the mount shield is positioned to the key as well. Finger tight on the bolts only, you will need some wiggle for the next step.
Lower the engine slightly till the lower mount bolt can engage the threads and snug the bolts in place. Oh, BTW blue loctite on all mount bolts.
Lower the engine completely and tighten the lower and upper mount bolts to spec.
Give the engine a good shake and retighten the transmission mount bolts.
You're done, now go have fun and know you're not going to damage your transmission or engine.
Answer: Harvard Business School
Parts $80
Unburdened Labor $60
Total Parts and Labor $140
Service Dept O/H 225%
$315
Dealership O/H 182%
$572
Profit 140%
Total $800
Last edited by ESTJ; Dec 12, 2010 at 09:15 AM.
All I can say is HOLY SH*T!!!! Just feels like a completely different car now. I wish I would have done this a long time ago. The passenger side one wasn't leaking, but the drivers side one leaked all over the place.






